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Gonna need to upgrade chain and sprocket on the 2016 zx10r KRT. In discussions with my mech he suggests -1 up front and +1 on rear sprockets (520 setup). I have always gone with a bi-metal setup in the past, any thoughts??
 

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Bi-metal.....yeah, the supersprox suck. If you're doing a show-bike, great. Otherwise go with a quality aluminum or steel sprocket.

And the 520 conversion should be for a track/race bike. If it's going to live on the street, then stick with the 525 size. My $0.02.
 

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skydork is correct...
those bimetal weight ton more than stock

gen5, gearing is perfect if you ride fast... seen it -1 and top end speed suffers..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had a 525 setup on my CBR.... -1 and +2....top end did suffer, but how often do you really get to go full throttle? Otherwise everything in between clicked....may try -1 and +1 first, steel front, aluminum rear.
 

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I pin the throttle any chance I get, but the front end will come up a good bit easier. Personally I prefer the low end as I don't find myself ever doing high speed runs or from what I read you do not really need a lot of top end for the track.
 

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I read the link provided by Duhastme and it was very interesting and informative. According to that article -1/+1 is plenty for the 2016 zx10r so I will prob go with that first, AFAM hard anodized aluminum rear and steel in front in a 520 format which should be as durable as a 525. I will let you guys know how that works out.
 

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I read the link provided by Duhastme and it was very interesting and informative. According to that article -1/+1 is plenty for the 2016 zx10r so I will prob go with that first, AFAM hard anodized aluminum rear and steel in front in a 520 format which should be as durable as a 525. I will let you guys know how that works out.
Have you done the setup how does it feel. How much of top end have you lost? Has the torque increased on 2nd and 3rd?

Regards
Sujay
 

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If your going to do a 520 conversion and daily ride thee street get the 3d chain i run it and its amazing. Do not get a supersprox i have one 40t rear stealth and its trash the center of the sprocket is off so i have super tight and loose spots in my . throwing it out for a renthal 38t rear. I currently as 16f 40rear acceleration is cool top end is 180 im going back to stock gearing. I was able to hit 186 before mods not i have full mods and flash and man i get to redline in 6 super fast so i need to gear to top end a lil more. According to gear commander keeping the 16f and going 38 rear should get me to 187 that enough for e and still have acceleration.
 

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I opted for a 525 -1/+1 from Renthal and honestly cannot picture going any more aggressive with the gearing unless you wanna spend the entire day on partial throttle, shifting and run out of top end. Near impossible keeping the front down on 1st and 2nd haha. I also believe it's the perfect setup if you want to retain OEM chain. Going with a +2 you might run out of chain from what I read.

DID I MENTION THE BIKE RIDES AWESOME NOW! Definitely a must do mod on these 10's.
 

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I opted for a 525 -1/+1 from Renthal and honestly cannot picture going any more aggressive with the gearing unless you wanna spend the entire day on partial throttle, shifting and run out of top end. Near impossible keeping the front down on 1st and 2nd haha. I also believe it's the perfect setup if you want to retain OEM chain. Going with a +2 you might run out of chain from what I read.

DID I MENTION THE BIKE RIDES AWESOME NOW! Definitely a must do mod on these 10's.
Not sure where you are located but here is el paso you have so many places to top out . its beautiful for riding. But im -1+1 and i run out of top end very fast. Think stock rear -1 front would be best. Terrain dependant though
 

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I went for a -1 front and thats all what i needed... discovered a whole new bike altogether.... its so torqueee now. curves which i used to take on 2nd on mountains can now be done on 3rd... this is excatly what i a needed. Wish Kawasaki does this change from factor
 

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Does anyone know if the stock oem z1000 16t front sprocket still work on the 5th gen?
 

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I use Renthal aluminum rear sprockets and always get 20K+ miles of street and track mileage out of them. Renthal is the only brand of aluminum sprockets I have found that will last. I ran the Renthal aluminum sprockets on my old '99 ZRX1100 (a heavy bike at 520 pounds) and got 20K miles out of them. Renthal makes a light steel countershaft sprocket for the front. They drilled holes in it to lighten it.

I did some endurance racing 7-8 years ago and we used Vortex aluminum sprockets. They were crap.

I don't think there is much of a weight savings with the bi-metal. If you want something that will last and won't break the bank then just get the OEM Sunstar sprockets.

I remember years ago when the bi-metal sprockets first came out there was a brand of them that were out of round. As you turned the rear wheel the chain tension would change. Not good for the chain!

I only use DID 525ZVM-X chain. I have tried EK, RK, Tsubaki, and Regina and couldn't get more that 12-14K miles out of them. I do clean and maintain my chain and sprockets regularly. Rhenthal offers chains but I have not tried them yet.
 
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On my gen1 i had minus 1 renthal on the front and plus 2 on the rear talon sprocket with d.i.d chain.
It lasted 10k miles with no wear to rear sprocket.
So i decided to get the same for my new bike but it munched the rear sprocket very fast.
Thought it was due to faulty carrier so got carrier replaced under warrenty.
Its better but by new sprocket is showing wear now after a few hundred miles.
Dont know what is going on?
The chain looks perfect and has no tight spots and all links measure the same.
The wheel is dead true and the chain runs spot on when on the axle stand but i have sprocket wear.
Its the sides of the teeth that are wearing.
Any ideas?
Could it be the quickshifter making the chain shake from side to side?
I want to do track day soon but concerened about sprocket wear.
 

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I really don't get the gear ratio reduction. I' m going the opposite way on my 2009. I'm tired of the constant buzz of high rpms at regular driving speeds. I want to ride at 100 kph under 3800 rpm. Lower rpm longer life.
 

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I really don't get the gear ratio reduction. I' m going the opposite way on my 2009. I'm tired of the constant buzz of high rpms at regular driving speeds. I want to ride at 100 kph under 3800 rpm. Lower rpm longer life.
It makes first gear lower as its very high on gen4 and 5s. Then you can run second gear on slower corners to aviod going past neutral so often.
Trouble is for cruising its going to be revving too high.
I find that i just cannot ride slow on mine.
Its really good fun but if i do want to cruise back home after a long ride its not nice at all.
 
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