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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The speedometer in my 04 ZX10r is not working. It seems like the speedometer is not providing the 12v supply voltage to speed sensor. I didn't do the test in the manual to check the supply voltage because it looks hard without the plug with extensions kawi recommends and I don't want to short something in the meter trying to touch 3 pins with wires when voltage is involved. I did figure that by testing for voltage at the speed sensor plug should accomplish the same thing. I am getting no voltage at the speed sensor except on the signal line and it read 4.6V. I checked all the wires from speed sensor to ecu and speed sensor to speedo and all have continuity and the ground checks out. Which leads me to believe I have a bad speedo. Instead of buying a new speedo since everything else works on it could I just cut the voltage supply wire between the speedo and speed sensor and wire my own 12v (switched with ignition) supply to the speed sensor side of the wire?

Also when I checked for voltage at the speed sensor I did so with the bike on but not running since I have the gas tank off right now to change a thermostat while I am at it. Hopefully the speedometer doesn't wait until after the bike is started or the fuel tank is plugged in to start the supply voltage. I ordered a used speed sensor to fix it and it didn't work so there is a small chance I have 2 bad speed sensors but the guy I bought it from said the speedo worked before he parted the bike so I haven't tested it since I need another harness from kawi to do that and doubt I have 2 bad speed sensors. If anyone can confirm if they get 12v at the speed sensor when the bike is on but not not started I would really appreciate it and I am also curious on people's opinions about creating my own 12v feed for the sensor instead of replacing the gauge cluster.
 

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Greetings!

Something doesn't really line up with all this. You want to tap off and run a separate power input to the sensor, but you are worried about shorting the 3 different connection points? Yeah, I'd say that if you can't figure out how to probe and inspect the signal, power, and ground wires on the connector, then you might not want to run power separately to it. It's not hard to do and you don't need the fancy wiring "adapter" that the shop has.

The speed sensor issue would cause an FI fault code. Are you seeing a service code 24 to indicate the sensor signal is bad? Any other FI warnings?

With that all said, the sensor input voltage is 9-11vDC. That's switched off the ignition switch through the instrument cluster. If the cluster isn't outputting the voltage for that, than a switched power tap may work if the sensor can handle a slight increase above the recommended power. But that won't work based on what you've posted. The input power is 9-11vDC. If you're not seeing that, then the sensor won't power up and provide any output. So you're either probing the wrong line or you have a short to power somewhere else between the lines. The output voltage will be well under 1.0vDC and will likely never show on your meter if it's not sensitive enough. So the 4.6vDC you show is the problem and a direct tap to switch 12v won't fix any of that.

You really need to confirm that though by seeing what the cluster is doing. It may be as simple as a broken wire in the harness somewhere in between that's the problem. Or a broken ground wire on the other end to give it an open circuit. Probe the wire coming out of the back of the cluster that supplies power to the sensor. That will tell you if the cluster is bad or you're just dropping that line somewhere in between that and the sensor. Probe that directly at the harness out of the back of the cluster. Then do a continuity check from there to the sensor on the power and signal lines. Do a continuity check on the sensor to ground to see what might be going on there.

Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for your reply SkyDork. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. I checked the 9-11v power supply from the speedo and the signal line for continuity to ground. Both checked out and are not shorted to ground anywhere. I am getting the FI 24 code and only that code. I probed the power supply line (pink wire)behind the meter and am not getting any voltage on that line when the key is on. I don't know where I was getting 4.6V before. I couldn't duplicate that today. I tried many times and it made me wonder if I was reading a resistance maybe and forgot to switch the multimeter back when I was switching between voltage and continuity. I also was wrong about which line I thought I was getting the reading on. Originally I said the 4.6 was on the signal line but it was on the voltage supply line which today I cant read any voltage on. I verified today the pink is power supply and the blue is signal. On all my Toyotas the VSS wire is pink so....oops.

So tonight my plan is to finish up the thermostat so i can get the throttle bodies and tank back on and then start the bike and check the speedo voltage supply and see if I still get zero volts there with it running. Once I verify that I think I might try running a 12v line directly to the speed sensor after I cut the wire so I don't feed any voltage back into the speedo. If that doesn't work or I ruin the sensor trying with too high of a voltage I do have some cheap voltage regulators that handle about 2 amps that i can knock the voltage down to about 10v or so like the speedo supply's and then try my other speed sensor. I'll report back what happens and again thank you for the response.
 

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Thank you for your reply SkyDork. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond. I checked the 9-11v power supply from the speedo and the signal line for continuity to ground. Both checked out and are not shorted to ground anywhere. I am getting the FI 24 code and only that code. I probed the power supply line (pink wire)behind the meter and am not getting any voltage on that line when the key is on. I don't know where I was getting 4.6V before. I couldn't duplicate that today. I tried many times and it made me wonder if I was reading a resistance maybe and forgot to switch the multimeter back when I was switching between voltage and continuity. I also was wrong about which line I thought I was getting the reading on. Originally I said the 4.6 was on the signal line but it was on the voltage supply line which today I cant read any voltage on. I verified today the pink is power supply and the blue is signal. On all my Toyotas the VSS wire is pink so....oops.

So tonight my plan is to finish up the thermostat so i can get the throttle bodies and tank back on and then start the bike and check the speedo voltage supply and see if I still get zero volts there with it running. Once I verify that I think I might try running a 12v line directly to the speed sensor after I cut the wire so I don't feed any voltage back into the speedo. If that doesn't work or I ruin the sensor trying with too high of a voltage I do have some cheap voltage regulators that handle about 2 amps that i can knock the voltage down to about 10v or so like the speedo supply's and then try my other speed sensor. I'll report back what happens and again thank you for the response.
It's worth a shot to try and pickup a switched power line from it to test it that way. The sensor may be able to tolerate the overvolt up to 12v direct. Not sure. Dropping it down to 10v would be foolproof in that regard, but more work. At some point you have to do the cost/benefit analysis on it. Obviously, going through that effort saves some cost on the instrument cluster itself but your time and effort and the changes required would make it quick and easier to just get a new cluster. Time is money. If you can do all that, then go for it since it's the quickest way forward at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After chasing multiple coolant leaks (those stock hose clamps while light seem to suck at sealing hoses) I finally got it all put back together. I never did try a direct 12v line to power the VSS because after some thinking I realized that the VSS also supplies input to the ECU which might not appreciate the extra voltage and while I was willing to experiment with the speedo since it was already bad I didn't want to risk the ECU so I used a voltage regulator. I ordered this one from Amazon DROK 180051US Numerical Control Voltage Regulator DC 5-32V to 0-30V 5A Buck Converter, 24V 12V to 5V Step Down Power Converter Adjustable Digital Control Voltage Reducer: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific but a cheaper one would have worked. (I couldn't find the ones I know I have somewhere) I wired the voltage regulator on a 30A relay triggered by the horn circuit so it it comes on with the key. I also installed a little camera system I got for my birthday and a battery maintainer lead at the same time to limit the number of ring terminals my battery had coming off it and the camera system was also powered by the relay. To connect the regulator to the VSS I cut the pink wire on the sensor side of the plug so I don't make a nightmare for the next owner and so the factory harness stays intact in case I run across a good deal on a used Speedo or decide to upgrade to a newer speedo to get a gearshift indicator. After It was all connected I am pleased to report that it worked! So if you have more time than money this might be a useful fix for someone else. The only thing that threw me for a loop was the check engine light didn't go off after I wired it all up and tested it. I was just spinning the wheel with my hand and could only get it up to 7mph. Once I started the bike on the stand and put it in gear the light went out as soon as it got to 10 mph. If anyone else is as cheap as I am and wants to do this to save some dough and doesn't understand my wiring ramblings and needs a diagram let me know and I will try my hand at paint and see what I can come up with. Thanks again for letting me bounce ideas off you Skydork.
 

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Hi!
I think I got totally same problem
There is no voltage in pink wire.
I checked pink wire is ok from speedometer to speed sensor.
So the problem must be in speedometer, because the current come from there.
I opened it but didn't see any faults.
But I was wondering, can I put 2 ohms resistor inside speedometer, beetween 12V and pink wire so it drop voltage to 10V?
Also, My speed healer don't work because it can't get power in it from pink wire. And that supposed to be 12V.
So it is really true speed sensor need lower voltage? Is there any proof to that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi!
I think I got totally same problem
There is no voltage in pink wire.
I checked pink wire is ok from speedometer to speed sensor.
So the problem must be in speedometer, because the current come from there.
I opened it but didn't see any faults.
But I was wondering, can I put 2 ohms resistor inside speedometer, beetween 12V and pink wire so it drop voltage to 10V?
Also, My speed healer don't work because it can't get power in it from pink wire. And that supposed to be 12V.
So it is really true speed sensor need lower voltage? Is there any proof to that?
I don't know if the speed sensor can handle a higher voltage or not. I never tried the full 12V. I was more worried about the ECU seeing a higher voltage from the speed sensor than the speed sensor seeing too high of a voltage which is why I regulated it down to 10V. I think your resister idea would work if the math works out. I didn't check it. I just used a voltage regulator because I had used them before and thought I had some on hand. Funny thing is after I got mine all working with the voltage regulator I found out the bike had non stock gears and now I need a speedo healer also. So since I will need to look into that this winter I am very curious how yours works out. I wish I could be more help.
 

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I don't know if the speed sensor can handle a higher voltage or not. I never tried the full 12V. I was more worried about the ECU seeing a higher voltage from the speed sensor than the speed sensor seeing too high of a voltage which is why I regulated it down to 10V. I think your resister idea would work if the math works out. I didn't check it. I just used a voltage regulator because I had used them before and thought I had some on hand. Funny thing is after I got mine all working with the voltage regulator I found out the bike had non stock gears and now I need a speedo healer also. So since I will need to look into that this winter I am very curious how yours works out. I wish I could be more help.
Thank you for quick answer. Funny thing is I don't have stock gear either. And that made me wonder If ecu flashed to cut speedo meter of because of that. I have Power commander so I think it's very possible, mayby previous owner didn't like it show wrong, and also The speed limiter hits very soon because shorter gears. Do you have Power commander and do you know is it possible to cut it off from there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for quick answer. Funny thing is I don't have stock gear either. And that made me wonder If ecu flashed to cut speedo meter of because of that. I have Power commander so I think it's very possible, mayby previous owner didn't like it show wrong, and also The speed limiter hits very soon because shorter gears. Do you have Power commander and do you know is it possible to cut it off from there?
If you don't have any voltage on the pink wire that for sure is why it isnt working. I have a power commander on my bike also and as soon as I fixed the voltage problem on the pink wire it started working. I'm pretty sure the speedometer gets it signal directly from the speed sensor so I don't see how an ECU flash could disable it or why anybody would want to disable it.
 

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If you don't have any voltage on the pink wire that for sure is why it isnt working. I have a power commander on my bike also and as soon as I fixed the voltage problem on the pink wire it started working. I'm pretty sure the speedometer gets it signal directly from the speed sensor so I don't see how an ECU flash could disable it or why anybody would want to disable it.
Yes, that is the reason.
But why there is no voltage?
Because speedometer have voltage, but it's not continue it to the speed sensor.
So the problem is physical in speedometer, but I didn't see any marks there.
Or if it's possible to disable from ecu or Power commander.
And there is two reason why you want to disable it.
Because sprockets are changed, speedometer shows too much speed and that is very annoying.
Also speed limit will hit very early and you can't go fast.
So it MUST disable in way or other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The supply voltage for the speed sensor (pink wire) comes from the speedometer. If you have voltage 9-11v on the pin on the back of the speedo that supplies the voltage to the speed sensor then you have a broken wire between the speed sensor and speedo if you aren't getting voltage on the pink wire at the speed sensor. If you aren't getting 9-11v on the pin on the back of the speedo that supplies the power to the speed sensor the manual says to replace the speedo. I would imagine a regulator or resistor burned up in the speedo but this is not a serviceable part according to the manual. I didn't know the speed limiter worked off the speedometer. I don't ride that fast though so I have never had a problem. The local track here is closed from flood damage and I pay way too much for commercial insurance to risk it on the street. I don't think the power commander spliced in between the speedo or speed sensor so I don't think there is any way for it to disable the speedo.
 

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If you aren't getting 9-11v on the pin on the back of the speedo that supplies the power to the speed sensor the manual says to replace the speedo. I would imagine a regulator or resistor burned up in the speedo but this is not a serviceable part according to the manual.
I can't check pin from back when connector is on, so I checked pink wire resistance and there was 0 ohm so wire is good. So it must be speedo. I think I buy new smaller speedometer with gear indicator, because my bike is anyway modded streetfighter. Thank you for information now it's clear. I report If I find the issue in speedo or fix it
 

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448459

Okay so it was a very easy fix.
I just put 7.5A fuse between, 1 (ignition) and 12 (speed sensor supply voltage) inside the speedometer. Also scrape 12 connection to circuit board off.
Now FI light is gone and with speedo healer it shows correct.
And I didn't put resistor there because I didn't believe that too high voltage thing, because speedo healer use 12V and it take power from that pink wire.
Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice work around. I guess Kawi was wrong and the speedo can be a serviceable part. lol Glad nothing happened with the increased voltage. Just remember the signal wire from the speed sensor has a Y in it where it feeds the ECU and the speedo. I was guessing the voltage increase probably wouldn't hurt anything but didn't want to chance it hurting the ECU. Please report back if you do have any problems with the ECU with your setup down the road. On mine I am only getting about 20 mpg with the gearing change. Is that about what you get also? Mine turns about 6K at 75mph in 6th gear. I think stock it is supposed to get like 35 mpg.
 

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Nice work around. I guess Kawi was wrong and the speedo can be a serviceable part. lol Glad nothing happened with the increased voltage. Just remember the signal wire from the speed sensor has a Y in it where it feeds the ECU and the speedo. I was guessing the voltage increase probably wouldn't hurt anything but didn't want to chance it hurting the ECU. Please report back if you do have any problems with the ECU with your setup down the road. On mine I am only getting about 20 mpg with the gearing change. Is that about what you get also? Mine turns about 6K at 75mph in 6th gear. I think stock it is supposed to get like 35 mpg.
Still works perfectly no prblms, but I guarantee I'll report here if there'll be any. And I dont understand your question, but I think I can't answer, previous owner did gearing change and I have a speedohealer already so km/h adjusted correctly.
 

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Nice work around. I guess Kawi was wrong and the speedo can be a serviceable part. lol Glad nothing happened with the increased voltage. Just remember the signal wire from the speed sensor has a Y in it where it feeds the ECU and the speedo. I was guessing the voltage increase probably wouldn't hurt anything but didn't want to chance it hurting the ECU. Please report back if you do have any problems with the ECU with your setup down the road. On mine I am only getting about 20 mpg with the gearing change. Is that about what you get also? Mine turns about 6K at 75mph in 6th gear. I think stock it is supposed to get like 35 mpg.
Sorry for the late response to this.

The speedometer is NOT a serviceable part. That is stated because Kawasaki doesn't AUTHORIZE the servicing of it. But anything is "serviceable" if you have the knowledge and ability to figure it out and apply a proper fix. That doesn't mean it can't ever be serviced, they just don't tell the dealership how to do it and don't sell the specific parts for it. That is the difference. Pommittaja figured it out and what met his needs and that's cool!

As for the fuel mileage, you're wrong on that. Fuel mileage is a calculation. You did a gearing change and that affects the speed that is shown on the cluster along with the mileage on the odometer. The engine isn't burning any more fuel. The engine is running the same as before. But now you're going a slower speed for that RPM because you regeared it. If you want to go the same speed as before, you have to rev the engine higher. Fuel mileage is just how much fuel is burned over how many miles traveled in a certain amount of time. If it thinks you're 80mph when you're really only going 70mph, the computer doesn't know that and is still calculating everything at 70mph. So the miles will count slower and not show correctly. So if you have used up the same amount of fuel over the lower mileage value from that, the fuel mileage will be less. It is very normal on the older bikes to see this happen as RPMs go up and mileage counts slower. It has nothing to do ECU as it doesn't care about anything like that. You just can't believe the mileage displayed on the cluster any longer because it isn't accurate. You need a correction device to show the proper mileage after the gearing change like a Speedohealer or SpeedoDRD.
 
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