Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Searched the forums and couldn’t find exactly what I was looking for so thought I’d just ask. Picked my 2015 up from a friend who let me keep it in his garage while I was out of town for three weeks and on the way home I noticed my warning light on but when I looked down again it was off. I kept riding and a few minutes later I glanced down and my dash was completely off and I was getting no power. I pulled over and the bike was dead would not power up or even try and turn over.

I got home and let it sit for a few hours then tried the key and the dash came on but the bike did the dead battery sound when I tried to start it. I put on my trickle charger over night and the next morning it fired right up. I took the battery to a auto parts store to have it checked and they said the machine couldn’t say if it was good or bad but it was showing solid enough power to start the bike.

I ride home from the auto parts store and right before I pull into my driveway I see the warning light and ESD under it. I pull into my house and turn the bike off and then go to turn it on again I see the light and ESD plus the bike now won’t crank and I get the dead battery sound again.

I checked my connectors and they seem tight so I’m thinking the battery is the problem, what say you guys? Sorry for the long post.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
14,974 Posts
Original battery on a 2015 model? You're lucky to get 2 years out of a lead-acid motorcycle battery before it drops a cell and won't retain a charge. Anything longer than that usually is just good luck!

But it sounds to me like you've got bigger problems. Most likely the rectifier or alternator has shit themselves. The power to the instrument cluster is the first thing to drop out if riding the bike before the motor quits. The battery is in total-loss mode at that point and running everything. The alternator and rectifier/regulator are used to power the bike and charge the battery. If they aren't working correctly, then the battery keeps the bike running and just drains itself until everything quits. So time to troubleshoot the alternator and rectifier separately to see which one is the culprit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Original battery on a 2015 model? You're lucky to get 2 years out of a lead-acid motorcycle battery before it drops a cell and won't retain a charge. Anything longer than that usually is just good luck!

But it sounds to me like you've got bigger problems. Most likely the rectifier or alternator has shit themselves. The power to the instrument cluster is the first thing to drop out if riding the bike before the motor quits. The battery is in total-loss mode at that point and running everything. The alternator and rectifier/regulator are used to power the bike and charge the battery. If they aren't working correctly, then the battery keeps the bike running and just drains itself until everything quits. So time to troubleshoot the alternator and rectifier separately to see which one is the culprit.
Its not the original battery, its a replacement from autozone I believe. I hope its not what your thinking but I guess I'll take it to my Kawi dealer and have it checked out. I just turned it on and the dash and every thing came on, no ESD light. I waited for the start up sounds to stop and tried the ignition and it started up, I don't get it.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
14,974 Posts
Its not the original battery, its a replacement from autozone I believe. I hope its not what your thinking but I guess I'll take it to my Kawi dealer and have it checked out. I just turned it on and the dash and every thing came on, no ESD light. I waited for the start up sounds to stop and tried the ignition and it started up, I don't get it.
The battery is only used for one thing - starting. Once the engine is running, it should provide the power for charging and keeping the electronics running. The battery must be in the system to complete the circuit though. So if the electronics shut down with the engine running, it's not providing the needed power and that's the sign there's an issue in one of the other 2 pieces I mentioned.

If you have a multimeter, you can troubleshoot them yourself. It's not hard. The alternator puts out a variable AC voltage of around 46 volts at 4,000 RPM. The rectifier puts out a constant DC voltage around 14 volts. You just need to disconnect each and put a multimeter on them to see.

Charge the battery up on a trickle charger and double check all the fuses in the mean time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
461 Posts
sounds like the battery.

I had my 6 year old truck battery do something very similar ... would not start first thing in the morning.. then had to get a jump and then to autozone where they tested it and said it was fine.. went to get gas and shut her down and then nothing... had to get another jump.. lucky i carry jumper cables on me at all times. Back to autozone and replaced the battery. All was good after that.

funny thing is my gen 4 13 is still running the oem original lead battery.. I must be lucky :smile: (finds some wood to knock on)

I have been waiting for it to crap out so I can upgrade to a lightweight lithium but it still kicking just fine. I don't keep it on a trickle charger either.. but i do ride as much as i can usually weekly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Funny story..got my ecu flashed and put it in and brand new lithium battery. Started the bike up (all the fairings were off). Was running fine. Then I noticed the lights wouldn't come on and dash was off. Checked the battery and it showed almost dead. Long story short...my dumbass forgot to plug up the rectifier.

I used to work at O'reillys....9 times out of 10 if a machine can't determine if a battery is good or bad more than likely it's probably bad. So like SkyDork said...it's probably rectifier/stator that's the problem and it's draining your battery.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top