Something just doesn't feel right......
Gen 4: 2011-15
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First, CHECK chain for tight spots. Do this with bike on stands. With rear up, left hand with wd 40 on cloth wrapped around chain, slowly spin the rear tire while gently gripping chain with cloth running the chain through. If all smooth, no 'bumps' then chain is good.
I bumps, that's tight spots, chain should be replaced. you have the 520 set up so that means you have 520 sprockets, MEANING have to stay 520 chain. Or you have to change out everything to 525.
You stripped the chain adjustor bolt? Hate to ask how the hell that happened. The bold stripped or the frame hole or what?
Been turning wrenches majority of my 36 years in one form or the other. I wasn't tired or getting lazy. About the 10th time I adjusted my chain tension on Sunday (thank you ocd), the wrench just slipped/slid but the nut didn't turn. Pulled the wrench off and saw one side of the nut smoothed. Got the nut off carefully and I'm affraid to tighten it back down before I replace it.
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Felt like a cheap walmart wrench spinning around a quality nut. Just like a soft ass metal honestly.
Felt like a cheap walmart wrench spinning around a quality nut. Just like a soft ass metal honestly.
Just the "safety nut" not the actual adjuster bolt. I imagine I could just tighten the tension and easily back the nut off worst case but I have bad luck with half ass doing things and would rather not rely on luck. Rather than just replace the nut, along with better/easier or more accurate tensioners like the lightechs (recommended above), along with the chain and sprockets while I'm at it. Then I know everything is new too, I guess is my rationale.
Axle is reversed so the nut is on the right side. No biggie and kind of beneficial to me but the blocks were swapped too. So on the right side the larger block is there and sticking out a bit, putting the smaller block is on the left. Again, not a huge deal but it does make it a bit inconvenient trying to line up the block with the swing arm marks when the block is recessed.
Picture above of the left side of the bike. Block is recessed on that side, sticking out a bit on the right side. Assuming the only explanation is that they came on the opposing sides than where they are currently. I don't like it. Probably stupid I know but if I didn't put the damage there, I'm correcting all the dumb minor deficiencies.
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Dang. The nut is stripped. I'm pretty sure that the only solution is to pick up some sweet Italian made Lightech chain adjusters to fix the problem. They come with their own fasteners so you won't need the original bolt and nut any more.
As for the OEM blocks, it's been awhile since I had them on my bike but I'm almost certain they only work with a particular end of the axle. Reversing the axle means reversing everything else at the same time.
As for the OEM blocks, it's been awhile since I had them on my bike but I'm almost certain they only work with a particular end of the axle. Reversing the axle means reversing everything else at the same time.
No worries.
I've narrowed the feel/sound down over the last week and the sound compares to "like" the front sprocket nut is loose. So a faint "loose nut" or "metal on metal" rattle in the vicinity of the front sprocket. Gets especially loud when I'm passing cars, buildings, walls, etc. that are on my left. I removed the cover and the nut is tight. I've inspected the chain and it appears good to go. I've also rotated the front sprocket by hand and it also appears to be "operating" correctly. Any ideas?
Chain is at 1.5" when the tire is on the ground. Measured from the center point between the sprockets at the bottom of the chain. From hanging to pressed upward. Multiple points on the chain. I watched several videos from GP legends and one mentioned slapping upward on the bottom chain. Said, if the top of the chain "double bounces" the chain needs to go. Mine does so I will be replacing all three (chain and both sprockets) shortly, but I want to ID the problem before I spend money on those plus the Lightech chain tensioners.
I'm going to try to get an appt at a local shop if this is not a common enough issue to find a remedy in the next day or so. I'll post the findings if any local shops can ID it and nothing is posted here.
Chain is at 1.5" when the tire is on the ground. Measured from the center point between the sprockets at the bottom of the chain. From hanging to pressed upward. Multiple points on the chain. I watched several videos from GP legends and one mentioned slapping upward on the bottom chain. Said, if the top of the chain "double bounces" the chain needs to go. Mine does so I will be replacing all three (chain and both sprockets) shortly, but I want to ID the problem before I spend money on those plus the Lightech chain tensioners.
I'm going to try to get an appt at a local shop if this is not a common enough issue to find a remedy in the next day or so. I'll post the findings if any local shops can ID it and nothing is posted here.
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You've probably already come across a different test in your research, but if you haven't, try it instead. Personally, I always found the bounce test to be difficult to discern so you can also try a pull test which is super easy and always gives a definitive result.
Grip the chain at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket and pull it directly away from the teeth (still on a 3'oclock plane). The 6 and 12 o'clock teeth engage the chain and allow you to see the level of interaction between the 2 parts on the short section of links between them. When everything is brand new the chain will barely move but once the parts are worn you'll be able to separate the chain a certain amount away from the 3 o'clock teeth and see that the engagement is quite "loose".
I can't describe what "loose" looks like but there should be examples on Youtube. I recall that Dave Moss has a chain wear video and it might include the pull test.
Grip the chain at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket and pull it directly away from the teeth (still on a 3'oclock plane). The 6 and 12 o'clock teeth engage the chain and allow you to see the level of interaction between the 2 parts on the short section of links between them. When everything is brand new the chain will barely move but once the parts are worn you'll be able to separate the chain a certain amount away from the 3 o'clock teeth and see that the engagement is quite "loose".
I can't describe what "loose" looks like but there should be examples on Youtube. I recall that Dave Moss has a chain wear video and it might include the pull test.
There are two types of front sprockets, one other is with a damper ring.
I was told these are quiet, and those without tend to give a 'rrrrrr' sound (depending also on chain brands) which increases in pitch (frequency) as the bike speed increases, in all gears.
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I was told these are quiet, and those without tend to give a 'rrrrrr' sound (depending also on chain brands) which increases in pitch (frequency) as the bike speed increases, in all gears.
Definitely found that one and you're 100% spot on. The video I saw said if you see light between the chain and rear sprocket at the 3 oclock point, it's a bad chain. Unfortunately, it barely moves. I'm not above saying maybe it's just my OCD but regardless, I'm getting it checked out to make sure it's "normal" even though it drives me crazy enough to probable sell it rather than ignore it. Thanks again for the advice as always.
Perfect! I'll check on something of better quality for street. Paired with a equal quality chain pending the results from the shop. Thanks again.
Only other thing would be to turn bike on with chain not on front sprocket, so just front sprocket bare and see if it makes a sound when spinning. Could mean something internal like a mashed gear idk but I doubt it. That's really the only other thing, btw does the sound, sound similar to the cam chain tensioner on the right side of engine?
I doesn't. It literally sounds like the front sprocket nut is loose and the sprocket is in there with an empty coke can full of pennies. I'm exaggerating of course but it's loud enough to make me want it to stop. I'm not above saying it's me looking too much into stuff but I just wouldn't expect this kind of noise on a bike with 6k on the clock. The mechanic is a trusted one around here and she said it's that loud because the dampening equipment is not there. Going to order the vortex steel front and back and an RK 525 z3d. If it's still there, maybe I'll just order and re-install the dampeners. Been on gsxr's for over 11 years and this noise is foreign to me. Not believing it's just aftermarket parts, non-quality or quality parts.
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The OE renthal front sprockets have a sandwich rubber band to dampen the noise, the smaller the sprocket the louder the noise generally.
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