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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 zx10r 6k mileage recently purchased.

After getting the "heavy/sluggish" feeling bike home in the middle of the night, I noticed that the tires had 25psi in the front and 27psi in the rear. The oil looked new but I replaced it anyway, and filter. The chain looks ok to me and free of defects, doesn't move to far left or right, very little slack in the rear, and maybe at its midlife. Chain was closer to 1.5" but still below. I cut the bike off rolling into a parking spot the next day and noticed the chain sounds thirsty. And, a guy getting out of his car asked "have you checked that chain recently?" After hearing the noise and conveniently some random dude thought something was up to, I tightened to right at 1.2". Cleaned the chain, put chain wax on. Handling obviously feels like it's on ice skates now but the sound and feel is a little off. The chain still sounds dry to me and making more noise then I'd like it to. Only other less important things I noticed: the axle has been reversed (nut on the right) which I only noticed when I started adjusting the chain because the chain adjuster blocks were left on the original sides so they work but the fitment is off due to size difference. Bike feels healthy but my next step is new sprockets, new chain, and tires. Could just be me on a new bike but any thoughts before I replace everything?




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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not really sure what you're trying to describe here, did you check the front and rear sprocket and the alignment? That looks pretty normal what is occurring in the video as its on a stand.

Interesting re the chain slack to me that looks too tight but thats a guessimation.

Rear axle that doesnt really matter for 2016+ they just reversed the side they put the axle through no difference in affect as its just a rail for everything to sit on and is the same diameter all the way through.

only other thing to check might be the hub on the rear wheel?

The advise I was looking for has been given. Just the infinite amount of experience floating around the community to give me other ideas brother.
I did not check the alignment of the sprockets and I am unfamiliar with the task so I will research and do that.

Good guess. The chain was tightened to 1" slack in the video because it felt like it was moving around too much but out of fear from deviating from the manufacturer guidance I put it back to 1.2

I'll look into the hub as well but gotta do some research on it. This is exactly what I was hoping to get out of this post. Thanks man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Measure minimum slack at the tightest point observed as the wheel is spinned, in case you haven't already.
Also, make sure the upper portion of the chain (above swingarm) does not move as you move and measure slack on the lower portion. Otherwise, pushing the slack to minimum spec means over-tighten.

The noise, is probably from loose/worn rollers (see picture above), this cannot be measured with chain slack, but can be inspected by rolling some of the rollers with finger. If there is sufficient grease/chainwax between the roller and pins, it should silence the chain sufficiently. Chains with loose rollers (freeplay against the pins) should be replaced, even if the chain does not kink, elongate out of spec etc...
Measure minimum slack at the tightest point observed as the wheel is spinned, in case you haven't already.
Also, make sure the upper portion of the chain (above swingarm) does not move as you move and measure slack on the lower portion. Otherwise, pushing the slack to minimum spec means over-tighten.

The noise, is probably from loose/worn rollers (see picture above), this cannot be measured with chain slack, but can be inspected by rolling some of the rollers with finger. If there is sufficient grease/chainwax between the roller and pins, it should silence the chain sufficiently. Chains with loose rollers (freeplay against the pins) should be replaced, even if the chain does not kink, elongate out of spec etc...

More stuff I'm unfamiliar with tinkering with so more research. Thanks for the detailed response. Just what I was looking for fellas
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I run my chains on the looser side, check the alignment using the hash marks i never mess around with getting it absolutely perfect. Clean and chain spray and if it doesn't pull off the back of the rear sprocket you're good to go generally. Unless you can actually see the o-rings/x-rings hanging out of the chain then thats no beuno
I really want to reverse the adjustment plates to the original sides so the accuracy is able to be better observed. I feel like it's super close but want to eliminate all possible issues and not take it to a shop. Thanks for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lol the last one helped the most! Great video and hats off to the folks that do it. Looking forward to taking the fam to laguna seca while we're out here this year to see it in person.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did that with about 4 hours of re-adjustment on saturday. Also, with the block adjusters on the "wrong" sides, I don't like that I can't get it as precise however, it's super close. I also stripped one of the adjuster block locking nuts with the correct sized box wrench. So, going to order some Lightechs if I can't find a less expensive pair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Came on the bike...... JT520Z1R stamped on the chain..... Supersprox stamped on the sprocket. Never heard of them but this is the link to what came up in English....https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZX10R-11-17-ZX-10R-Blue-Supersprox-JT-Quick-Acceleration-Chain-and-Sprockets-Kit-/152601350864
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah it was mad loose before I started f'ing with it (2.25"). I've been looking for a 520 oem similar setup without paying oem prices. I found some posts last night on here on the did 525 zvmx but couldn't really find a site with them available in the short time I searched. I plan to invest some time this weekend in solving this issue. Especially since I stripped a side of the chain block nut and it's just sitting in the garage since sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Been turning wrenches majority of my 36 years in one form or the other. I wasn't tired or getting lazy. About the 10th time I adjusted my chain tension on Sunday (thank you ocd), the wrench just slipped/slid but the nut didn't turn. Pulled the wrench off and saw one side of the nut smoothed. Got the nut off carefully and I'm affraid to tighten it back down before I replace it.
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Felt like a cheap walmart wrench spinning around a quality nut. Just like a soft ass metal honestly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
First, CHECK chain for tight spots. Do this with bike on stands. With rear up, left hand with wd 40 on cloth wrapped around chain, slowly spin the rear tire while gently gripping chain with cloth running the chain through. If all smooth, no 'bumps' then chain is good.

I bumps, that's tight spots, chain should be replaced. you have the 520 set up so that means you have 520 sprockets, MEANING have to stay 520 chain. Or you have to change out everything to 525.

You stripped the chain adjustor bolt? Hate to ask how the hell that happened. The bold stripped or the frame hole or what?
Just the "safety nut" not the actual adjuster bolt. I imagine I could just tighten the tension and easily back the nut off worst case but I have bad luck with half ass doing things and would rather not rely on luck. Rather than just replace the nut, along with better/easier or more accurate tensioners like the lightechs (recommended above), along with the chain and sprockets while I'm at it. Then I know everything is new too, I guess is my rationale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Pic of the stripped chain block nut please? What happened? I might learn a thing or two.
Also, I don't quite get the "block adjusters on the "wrong" sides ", can you elaborate?
Axle is reversed so the nut is on the right side. No biggie and kind of beneficial to me but the blocks were swapped too. So on the right side the larger block is there and sticking out a bit, putting the smaller block is on the left. Again, not a huge deal but it does make it a bit inconvenient trying to line up the block with the swing arm marks when the block is recessed.

Picture above of the left side of the bike. Block is recessed on that side, sticking out a bit on the right side. Assuming the only explanation is that they came on the opposing sides than where they are currently. I don't like it. Probably stupid I know but if I didn't put the damage there, I'm correcting all the dumb minor deficiencies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Dang. The nut is stripped. I'm pretty sure that the only solution is to pick up some sweet Italian made Lightech chain adjusters to fix the problem. They come with their own fasteners so you won't need the original bolt and nut any more.

As for the OEM blocks, it's been awhile since I had them on my bike but I'm almost certain they only work with a particular end of the axle. Reversing the axle means reversing everything else at the same time.
Going to look today.

I didn't think about whether they would fit on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
I've narrowed the feel/sound down over the last week and the sound compares to "like" the front sprocket nut is loose. So a faint "loose nut" or "metal on metal" rattle in the vicinity of the front sprocket. Gets especially loud when I'm passing cars, buildings, walls, etc. that are on my left. I removed the cover and the nut is tight. I've inspected the chain and it appears good to go. I've also rotated the front sprocket by hand and it also appears to be "operating" correctly. Any ideas?

Chain is at 1.5" when the tire is on the ground. Measured from the center point between the sprockets at the bottom of the chain. From hanging to pressed upward. Multiple points on the chain. I watched several videos from GP legends and one mentioned slapping upward on the bottom chain. Said, if the top of the chain "double bounces" the chain needs to go. Mine does so I will be replacing all three (chain and both sprockets) shortly, but I want to ID the problem before I spend money on those plus the Lightech chain tensioners.

I'm going to try to get an appt at a local shop if this is not a common enough issue to find a remedy in the next day or so. I'll post the findings if any local shops can ID it and nothing is posted here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
You've probably already come across a different test in your research, but if you haven't, try it instead. Personally, I always found the bounce test to be difficult to discern so you can also try a pull test which is super easy and always gives a definitive result.

Grip the chain at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket and pull it directly away from the teeth (still on a 3'oclock plane). The 6 and 12 o'clock teeth engage the chain and allow you to see the level of interaction between the 2 parts on the short section of links between them. When everything is brand new the chain will barely move but once the parts are worn you'll be able to separate the chain a certain amount away from the 3 o'clock teeth and see that the engagement is quite "loose".

I can't describe what "loose" looks like but there should be examples on Youtube. I recall that Dave Moss has a chain wear video and it might include the pull test.
Definitely found that one and you're 100% spot on. The video I saw said if you see light between the chain and rear sprocket at the 3 oclock point, it's a bad chain. Unfortunately, it barely moves. I'm not above saying maybe it's just my OCD but regardless, I'm getting it checked out to make sure it's "normal" even though it drives me crazy enough to probable sell it rather than ignore it. Thanks again for the advice as always.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
There are two types of front sprockets, one other is with a damper ring.
I was told these are quiet, and those without tend to give a 'rrrrrr' sound (depending also on chain brands) which increases in pitch (frequency) as the bike speed increases, in all gears.
View attachment 450601
Perfect! I'll check on something of better quality for street. Paired with a equal quality chain pending the results from the shop. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Shop said it's just me and everything checks out. Still replacing the sprockets and chain to see if I can minimize that awful sound. Thanks a lot for all the input though. Learned a thing or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I doesn't. It literally sounds like the front sprocket nut is loose and the sprocket is in there with an empty coke can full of pennies. I'm exaggerating of course but it's loud enough to make me want it to stop. I'm not above saying it's me looking too much into stuff but I just wouldn't expect this kind of noise on a bike with 6k on the clock. The mechanic is a trusted one around here and she said it's that loud because the dampening equipment is not there. Going to order the vortex steel front and back and an RK 525 z3d. If it's still there, maybe I'll just order and re-install the dampeners. Been on gsxr's for over 11 years and this noise is foreign to me. Not believing it's just aftermarket parts, non-quality or quality parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Alexei - Chain slider and insulation in the cover is what the mechanic was talking about.

Michael - that's what I'll be tracking down then. Thanks.
 
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