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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Revised...Questions...LOCKTIGHT??? SCOTTS DAMPER

1. I installed my Scotts Damper today (I have an 06 ZX 10). I didn't need to cut the key like the directions said.???!!?

My main question is..........................

1. LOCKTIGHT?? I didn't use Locktight on the steering column bolt (32mm bolt in the center of handlebars that holds the bracket on), and went for a ride and the bolt came loose. I didn't use Locktight on that bolt because it wasn't on the stock one. I took it off and re-installed with locktight and tightened a little tighter than the stock torque setting of 15 pounds. HAS THIS HAPPENED TO ANYONE...DID I DO SOMETHING WRONG????

3. The knob on the right....should I mess with that? What about the ones on the side?

I posted a thread asking the forum members which damper is better, Scotts or GPR and overwhelmingly it was voted that Scotts was the way to go.....

If anyone knows a lot about the Scotts Damper, hook me up with the knowledge.....

Thanks!:eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Come on...

I know some forum member has the answers.....:helmet:
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Unless Scotts has dramatically changed from what I got you should have only one thumb adjustment and 2 hidden adjustments for high and low speed adjustments. If your not tracking your bike leave the H and L alone for now. Don't compare your old GPR to Scotts as it's much more adjustable and a setting of 5 on your GPR has nothing to do with a Scotts.

For now I would just adjust the Scotts to where you are just feeling resistance which should be within a few full turns from fully tight. The only time I get close to fully tight is on the drag strip but on the street I just want a little resistance setting
while sitting on the bike so I just mess with it from fully hard setting to where it's starts to get loose.

I'm sure some others might have better suggestions but has worked for me since 1999 :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks...

Unless Scotts has dramatically changed from what I got you should have only one thumb adjustment and 2 hidden adjustments for high and low speed adjustments. If your not tracking your bike leave the H and L alone for now. Don't compare your old GPR to Scotts as it's much more adjustable and a setting of 5 on your GPR has nothing to do with a Scotts.

For now I would just adjust the Scotts to where you are just feeling resistance which should be within a few full turns from fully tight. The only time I get close to fully tight is on the drag strip but on the street I just want a little resistance setting
while sitting on the bike so I just mess with it from fully hard setting to where it's starts to get loose.

I'm sure some others might have better suggestions but has worked for me since 1999 :wink:
Bloo....

As far as adjusting High and Low, I think the directions are general directions for all the dampers, since my High is on the left and the low is on the right, am I correct to assume that?

I appreciate the advice, I guess I need to experiment with it, whereas the GPR was straight forward.
 

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By knob on the right, I'll assume the not covered one. (whether is on the right or left depends on how the damper is mounted there is 180 rotation choice) anyway leave the arrow tip of that knob, pointing to soft setting (or leave it the way it came if you noticed how it came). Rotating that knob to hard setting can creat such a restance, you would swear the stearing was locked, and if starting out that way dump the bike.

I'm saying hard -soft, the scale might say high -low I'm not looking at it right now, but, i trust you get the drift. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
By knob on the right, I'll assume the not covered one. (whether is on the right or left depends on how the damper is mounted there is 180 rotation choice) anyway leave the arrow tip of that knob, pointing to soft setting (or leave it the way it came if you noticed how it came). Rotating that knob to hard setting can creat such a restance, you would swear the stearing was locked, and if starting out that way dump the bike.

I'm saying hard -soft, the scale might say high -low I'm not looking at it right now, but, i trust you get the drift. :)
I've only adjusted the left knob, I like resistance....works awesome. Any, did you install your's.....did you use locktight on that center bracket bolt? I cant believe it came loose. Hopefully the locktight will hold it on. Let me know!!
 

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I have a very different mounting for mine, that I had to do myself because, what I have is a one of a kind. Z1000 top triple clamp and handlebars on my ZX10 (not recommending this route for streetfighter conversion, a LSL conversion from Spiegler the way to do this) Just mentioning this to explain the different than yours, situation and, I have stock nut there, so.... I might be the only one on the planet that that question doesn't apply to :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Scotts Owners...

Scotts Damper owners please comment on the Locktight question!! Someones gotta know? I cant believe the bolt came loose, was it because I didn't use Locktight????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Please read my question when I started this thread.

Thanks>
 

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I did NOT use locktite on the steering stem nut, just tourqed it to spec.

I also didn't use locktite on the other bolts Scotts recommends as I will be needing to remove the damper in the future when removing the tank. I see no need for it if the bolts are tourqed properly.

I did NOT have to cut the key because this is a new triple clamp design that doesn't require it. I started a thread on that and your username was the last to reply in that thread.

I doubt many people mess with the adjuster under the black plastic cover, or the sweep adjustment on the side.

Did your damper not come with an instruction manual? If not I still have mine but the manual explains all this.

This damper works different than the GPR. Scotts doesn't recommend adjusting the control under the black cover until you are comfortable with what you are doing.

The adjuster on the left from fully soft to max stiff is 4 complete turns. I have mine set 1 complete turn out from soft.

I like the design of the GPR better but have read 2 many reports about them leaking and the anodizing fading. I saw a V4 GPR on a bike at the Atlanta bike show and its black finish had faded horribly. It couldnt been that old since they were only released last year.

JJ
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yea..

It came with a manual and instructions, I followed the directions, I'm bummed, WTF is wrong?
 

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can we ride yet!?!?!?
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man i bought mine used, no manual or anything. i put it on tighted all bolts with a grunt or a "that feels like enough." i only put about 100 miles on it but everything felt good. i adjusted the knob on the left in the driveway to where i thought i might like it. then on the road i felt it was too stiff and adjusted it to my likings. hope this helps bro!
no locktite.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
*****

man i bought mine used, no manual or anything. i put it on tighted all bolts with a grunt or a "that feels like enough." i only put about 100 miles on it but everything felt good. i adjusted the knob on the left in the driveway to where i thought i might like it. then on the road i felt it was too stiff and adjusted it to my likings. hope this helps bro!
no locktite.
F**K!! what the hell did I do or not do, I've read the directions over and over, I should have not used a torque wrench and tightened down "tight".....My reservation was breaking the bolt since it is Aluminum or whatever it is, it seems fragile and I didn't want to snap the bracket or bolt so I torqued it to specs. and it came loose. Hopefully when I ride tomorrow it will be fine, it sucks that I will have to check it every few minutes to see if it's secure....the more I think about it, I wish I had it installed by the dealership and paid the money. The install was much easier than the GPR so I thought it would be easy, which it was. I'm just dumbfounded right now.:BangHead:
 

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can we ride yet!?!?!?
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F**K!! what the hell did I do or not do, I've read the directions over and over, I should have not used a torque wrench and tightened down "tight".....My reservation was breaking the bolt since it is Aluminum or whatever it is, it seems fragile and I didn't want to snap the bracket or bolt so I torqued it to specs. and it came loose. Hopefully when I ride tomorrow it will be fine, it sucks that I will have to check it every few minutes to see if it's secure....the more I think about it, I wish I had it installed by the dealership and paid the money. The install was much easier than the GPR so I thought it would be easy, which it was. I'm just dumbfounded right now.:BangHead:
the goose neck nut i just snugged down 'till i felt it had enough. :dontknow:maybe all the time i spent in a garage helped:dontknow: just keep an eye on it. if your worried about it take the tools with you on a ride after 100 miles check it. 15 ft lbs of torque is just over snug. try it out before you ride. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That's..

the goose neck nut i just snugged down 'till i felt it had enough. :dontknow:maybe all the time i spent in a garage helped:dontknow: just keep an eye on it. if your worried about it take the tools with you on a ride after 100 miles check it. 15 ft lbs of torque is just over snug. try it out before you ride. :thumbsup:
What I did originally....Actually I over tighted it, without a torque wrench, and when I checked the torque I over tightend it so I back it off and then bolted back on to 15 pounds.

Maybe since I over tightend it then backed it off?? :dontknow:

Well I torqued it to 25 with Locktight so hopefully tightening it more combined with Locktight will do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The damper needs to be tighted to 53 pounds of torque not 15, no wonder I misheard the tech over the phone that told ....the two numbers sound the same.....I hasn't come loose since I reinstalled. Bonehead mistake!:rolleyes::headshake
 

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Here's some simple advice. USE THE GODDAMN LOCKTITE!! The people who make the part put instructions in there for a reason, and if they specify locktite, use it. You didn't use it and the bolt backed out, what ever could the reason be???? Do it as per instructions and quit yer bitchin.
 

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Here's some simple advice. USE THE GODDAMN LOCKTITE!! The people who make the part put instructions in there for a reason, and if they specify locktite, use it. You didn't use it and the bolt backed out, what ever could the reason be???? Do it as per instructions and quit yer bitchin.
I think he was asking if he needed to use loctite on the large nut in the center of the triple clamp. The instructions dont state to put any loctite on this nut.

You have now posted the Lords name in vain on the WWW to be recorded for all eternity Mr. Super K. You are a far braver man than I.

JJ
 
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