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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got the Sato rearsets this evening and got them put on. They look sweet! I took pics along the way so I thought I'd do an illustrated step by step how-to on the swap.

First things first... You simply HAVE to photograph new parts as soon as they come out of the box. It's just an unwritten rule of modding your toys. Here's a shot of the rearsets straight out of the Sato box. I drooled from this point on... :thumbsup:





I was thrilled to no end by every aspect of the Sato's... except the install instructions. Can you say SUCKED!!! I ended up using the parts breakdown sheet as a visual guide to get everything where it needed to be. The instructions were pretty much useless... Oh well, anyone installing them after this should be able to use my instructions and leave the factory instructions in the envelope they come in. :wink:


Anyway, here's a pic and list of the tools I used for the swap...

- 4mm, 5mm, and 6mm Allen Sockets
- 4mm and 5mm Allen Wrenches from stock tool kit
- 3/8" drive torque wrench with 6" extension
- Double ended 8mm/10mm and 10mm/12mm wrenches from factory tool kit
- Double ended Craftsman 10mm/11mm wrench (Heim on brake side is 11mm & jamb nut is 12mm)
- 1/4" drive ratchet/10mm socket (optional- can use factory 10mm wrench)
- 3/8" drive ratchet (not pictured... ooops)
- Dewalt cordless driver with 3/8" drive in chuck (optional but nice!)

- Not a tool and not shown but get some blue loctite, too...





Now, as we all know... before you can install new rearsets you have to remove the stockers. Here's a before shot of the shifter side for comparison later...





To get started I used a ratchet and 10mm socket to loosen and remove the shift lever bolt. You can also use one of the 10mm wrenches from the factory tool kit. The ratchet is just quicker...





Next I used a 6mm allen socket to remove the shift pedal bolt...





The shift lever, shifter tie rod, and shift pedal all comes off together...





I then used the 6mm allen socket to remove the foot peg bracket bolts...





Here's all the stock stuff that came off of the shifter side. I put it all into a big ziploc freezer bag to keep from losing anything. Keep this stuff handy though because you have to reuse some of it for the install...





Now for the brake side... Here's a before shot.





Unlike on the shifter side, the heel guard has to be removed from the brake side. The heel guard bolts also fasten the rear brake master cylinder to the rearset. A 5mm allen socket was used to remove the heel guard/master cylinder bolts...





The removed heel gaurd and bolts...





Again the 6mm allen socket was used to remove the foot peg bracket bolts...





Ok, once you have the brake side foot peg bracket separated from the frame there are a few things you have to remove from the backside before it's totally free. I couldn't exactly operate the camera while removing these items so I'll just explain them. I will also include them in a pic later on.

There are two springs on the back of the brake side peg bracket that you simply stretch and unhook. Simple enough. You also have to straighten and remove a cotter pin from the join pin that holds the master cylinder plunger bolt to the stock rearset. Lastly you have to unscrew the brake light switch from it's mounting nut.

Here's a picture with all of this done. You can see the switch and the master cylinder plunger that had to be taken loose...





Here's a pic showing all the parts removed from the brake side. The tiny cotter pin is laying on the heel guard. The two springs and the brake switch nut are also shown. Again, all parts were immediately put into a big ziploc bag to avoid loosing anything. None of the brake side parts are reused but if you ever want/need to swap back to the stockers you'll be glad you bagged everything...

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Had to cut my post in half... I exceeded the 10000 character per post limit by 3000+ characters! :mrgreen:



Ok, now that I've covered almost all of the disassembly (one more thing later in the install...) we'll move on to the install of the sweet stuff. Remember I said that some stuff from the shifter side was used during the install? Well, you remove the front heim joint/shift lever from the stock tie rod to use along with a male/male adapter (basically a bolt with two jamb nuts on it...) on the new Sato tie rod... To remove the heim joint you simply loosen the factory jamb nut and screw the heim joint off. Remember though...reverse threads in this end!





I forgot to take a pic of the adapter bolt but you'll know it when you see it. It looks like a length of bolt without a head on either end and two jamb nuts already on it in the pack. You simply screw one end into the heim joint (I screwed it in as far as it would go...) and screw the other end into the tie rod. Don't tighten the jamb nuts yet because you have to adjust the shift pedal position using the tie rod after the install... You also have to screw the Sato heim joint into the other end of the tie rod. Here's a pic of the shift lever/heim joint/tie rod assembly ready to be fastened to the Sato shift pedal...





To attach the new Sato heim joint to the Sato shift pedal you use this bolt and collar. The pink plastic is just there to keep the collar from losing off of the bolt in transit. It gets taken off and thrown away during install...





Ok, here's where the parts diagram came in handy. The instructions said nothing about where the collar went. In the parts diagram it was shown going between the heim joint and the shift pedal. That's where I put it. Keep in mind that in this pic the shift pedal is upside down. The heim joint mounts to the inside of the shift pedal. If you flipped this photo over it would look like it should if you were looking at the joint from the back of the bike right side up. If you stand on your head or flip your monitor upside down you get that view as well... :mrgreen:






NOTE!!!: An important note here is that the heads of the smaller bolts in the Sato kit seem to be really soft. I all but stripped this bolt just hand tightening it. Use loctite and the small factory allen wrenches ONLY and be VERY careful not to try and get these bolts too tight or it will strip on you!!! The bolts I had to be careful with included the one above that holds the heim joint to the shift pedal and the heel guard bolts on the shifter side...


Edit: Ok, I contacted Slava at Flatout who in turn contacted Sato. Sato is supposed to be sending me some replacement bolts. I'll update this again when I get and try the new bolts. They said they've had no complaints on the 10R kits yet and only a couple of bolt complaints across their line of rearsets. Hey, at least it appears that they are going to quickly try to take care of the complaint. Stuff happens... it's how stuff is handled that counts. :wink:




Once I had the shift lever/tie rod/heim attached to the shift pedal it was time to mount the Sato base plate to the frame. The step plate was already attached from the factory so it all went on as one unit minus the heel guard. The shift lever simply slides back onto the shift shaft. I have gone back to standard shifting instead of GP shifting until I can either find a shorter tie rod or decide to just notch the lower fairing to clear the shift lever heim joint. For standard shift you just slide the shift lever onto the shift shaft with the heim joint above the shaft center. To go GP shift you slide it on with the heim below the shaft. I started with the heim directly above the shaft centerline but ended up moving it just forward of shaft center to get the shift pedal height right and leave a little adjustment in the tie rod.

In this pic the shift lever is slid onto the shaft but not tightened. I didn't tighten it until everything else was mounted and adjusted/tightened... The stock peg bracket bolts are used to attach the Sato base plates... Torque them to factory specs (18 ft-lbs)...





I tried setting my torque wrench to it's lowest setting (10 ft-lbs) and torquing the heel guard plate mount bolts but was afraid I was going to strip them as well. They were soft like the tie rod bolt... Notice in the pic I done the circle/slash warning... DO NOT USE A TORQUE WRENCH OR RATCHET! USE LOCTITE AND THE SMALL "L" SHAPED ALLEN WRENCHES IN THE FACTORY TOOL KIT AND DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!





Ahhh... now ain't that just sweet? After adjusting shift pedal height to where I thought it should be I tightened the shift lever bolt with a 10mm wrench and then tightened all the jamb nuts on the tie rod. One side done! :thumbsup:





On to the brake side... Remember I said there was one more thing to disassemble on this side? Well here it is... You have to take the little "U" shaped bracket off of the plunger bolt. To do this you simply back the jamb nut on top of the bracket off and unscrew the bracket/other nut from the plunger... In this pic I've loosened the jamb nut and started removing the bracket...





This is all you take off. Leave the other jamb nut on the plunger...





A shot to show the plunger and the nut you leave on...





The Sato kit includes a heim joint that goes onto the master cylinder plunger in place of the "U" shaped bracket from above.The heim simply screws onto the plunger. Don't tighten the jamb nut yet. You have to adjust the heim to set brake pedal height later on...





Next you attach the brake side Sato base plate to the frame, again using the stock bolts...Remember the blue loctite and torque them to 18 ft-lbs...





On the brake side the heel guard bolts also hold the master cylinder to the Sato rearset. Be careful... use loctite, and torque very carefully to 18 ft-lbs. The heads of these bolts weren't quite as soft as the heel guard bolts on the shifter side but they still seemed softer than any of the factory bolts...





The brake pedal is attached to the heim joint by a long bolt with lock washer, a black plastic spacer, and a nut on the backside. Here's a pic of how the parts diagram had it shown. Again, the instructions were useless in regards to exactly how this should be done...



To adjust brake pedal height you simple remove the bolt that holds the heim to the pedal and screw the heim in or out depending on which direction you want to move the pedal. Once pedal height was set to where I thought I'd like it I tightened everything down including the heim jamb nut.



And finally a pic of the right side after install...







To complete the install I still have to replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinder with the Sato brake switch/bolt and wire the switch in. I didn't go ahead and do it because #1 the instructions don't tell which factory wires go to which wires on the Sato switch, and #2, I want to ride to Buffalo Wild Wings tomorrow evening and didn't want to break the seal on the rear brakes and have to bleed them just yet... Later on, when it's too cold outside to ride I'll tear into swappin' the switch. I'll take pics of the steps required for that and finish this how-to then...

Overall I'm super happy with the looks and quality of the Sato rearsets other than the shitty quality of the bolts that came with it. I'm going to get with Slava/Flatout and/or Sato about this. If they can't provide better bolts I'm going to round up better ones myself somewere. You'd think that for what these things cost they'd give you GOOD bolts... Now I can't wait to ride with them and see how they feel. I left the step plates where they were from Sato. Again, the included literature sucks in that there's no way of knowing where to put the step plate bolts to go with stock peg position...

Besides the sucky instructions/literature and the cheap, soft bolts the Sato rearsets are sweet! The bolts bother me more than the paperwork. I can figure out how to install and adjust the things. I can't make the bolt heads harder though...

Anyway, here's a crappy side shot of the whole bike with the Sato's installed. I'll take more out in the daylight tomorrow. UPS screwed me over AGAIN and I had to drive to get them this evening so it was dark out when I finished. Never mind the dirty garage... :thefinger


 

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Geeeeeeeeeeeez clean the garage will ya, fugg its killin me!! :wink:


Kudos for yet another sweet step by step how to. :thumbsup:

BD
 

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Great job! You ought to send those instructions to Sato so they can include them in future shipments. They ought to give you a freebie too for all the effort.

Oh, and don't forget to take out the trash. :heyyou:
 

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Big Daddy said:
Geeeeeeeeeeeez clean the garage will ya, fugg its killin me!! :wink:


Kudos for yet another sweet step by step how to. :thumbsup:

BD
:+1:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Big Daddy said:
Geeeeeeeeeeeez clean the garage will ya, fugg its killin me!! :wink:


Kudos for yet another sweet step by step how to. :thumbsup:

BD

Yeah, well... the garage will have to wait. When it finally gets too cold to ride, then I'll break down and clean the garage... and the bike. Until then they both stay nasty and I stay in the road as much as possible. :thumbsup:

Thanks for teh compliments on the step by step... :eek:ccasion1
 

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By the way, are those the Pit Bull swingarm spools? Did you end up using the spacers on both sides? Too bad they didn't come with black bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cryptoman said:
Great job! You ought to send those instructions to Sato so they can include them in future shipments. They ought to give you a freebie too for all the effort.

Oh, and don't forget to take out the trash. :heyyou:

Thanks. :eek:ccasion1 Yeah, I'd give them the rights to use my photos and instructions for a freebie! And yes I do need to take the trash off. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cryptoman said:
By the way, are those the Pit Bull swingarm spools? Did you end up using the spacers on both sides? Too bad they didn't come with black bolts.

No, the spools are black delrin Intuitive Racing spools. They came with washers for both sides. No spacers... Couldn't find black Pit Bull spools in stock anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
dnwhoop02 said:
um.... what dirty garage? Oh, and great write-up BTW.... great pictures as always. This makes me really want rearsets.... ahh! NO! can't... spend any more money...

Heh, the picture makes the bike and garage both look less dirty than they do in person. :eek: Thanks for the compliment on the write-up. :eek:ccasion1
 

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hey... Are those the carbon-look euro's from Rumble Imports? If they are, do you have a more zoomed in picture (but still with the whole bike in the pic... maybe, something around 800x600 :mrgreen:) I've been looking for a good picture of those on a black bike, seeing as how I like to shop around endlessly and must see many pictures of different parts before ever buying anything *sigh*
 

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Discussion Starter #15
dnwhoop02 said:
hey... Are those the carbon-look euro's from Rumble Imports? If they are, do you have a more zoomed in picture (but still with the whole bike in the pic... maybe, something around 800x600 :mrgreen:) I've been looking for a good picture of those on a black bike, seeing as how I like to shop around endlessly and must see many pictures of different parts before ever buying anything *sigh*
Nah, they are the clear ones, but they are from Rumble. I love 'em! I'll post a bigger pic even though they ain't the fake CF ones... :thumbsup:
 

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Great writeup! BTW, to answer your q about which wire connects to what on the rear brake pressure sensor - it actually doesn't matter. It works either way. I called Dan Kyle's shop and they confirmed it's "by design"
 

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Great job with the instructions. I'll be needing those. Got my Sato's for Christmas, but they're still in the box. The snow finally melted, but too cold to work in the shed!



 
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