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Can someone recommend one? I see ARP has one for $162 Jegs has one for $78.... Not sure what the difference would be. Both measure in 001" Maybe size??
 

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I made my own. From a good tool supply company I believe you can purchase pointed and ball ends that fit over a standard micrometer.
I just purchased a 1/2 long micrometer barrel and then made the holder.
The 1990 ZX10 was much tighter and it was easier to measure with the one I made. Not sure which engine is pictured but this has been used on the 1990, 05 and 09 ZX10R as well as Suzuki's.

Purely as an aside, the old 1990 rod bolts were much more consistent in as delivered length and in the stretch/ft-lb.





Changing rod bolts without taking the rod and pistons out. The cap is from a bad rod and the bolt hole has been drilled out, this is just for good alignment.
 

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If you have a good micrometer, that's not a shabby idea. It's a little cumbersome if you're by yourself, but I bet it's accurate. :) Hard to beat a good spring loaded tool for 60-70 bucks if you don't already own a mic that fits though too.

FWIW, on new rods bolts I've found that 99% of the time that recommended stretch and recommended torque values from the bolt manufacturer always line up real close to on another. After I do the first few with the gauge and they all hit the same stretch/torque, I'll use the torque wrench on all the rest and just verify stretch with a mic/gauge.... comes in within .0005 each time on good new stuff. :)
 

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On non oem rod bolts my experience is the same SpazonZX they are exceptional in terms of quality and consistency; however with the oem rod bolts the gen 1 and gen3 (which are the same) are inconsistent in both initial length and stretch/in-lb.
I use a snap-on digital vibrating torque wrench very accurate. I use the 1in micrometer standard that came with my 2in Mitutoyo micrometer to check the bolt micrometer.
 

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Mitutoyo used to make some damn fine stuff.... I haven't used any of there tools since they moved production away from Japan. I have a few old B&S stuff... I like their old tools. :) I actually just got a real nice old scheer-tumico set from an army aviation surplus auction... I'm actually pretty fond of those!

I agree with the observation about OEM hardware. Honestly, so does the OEM... they call for replacement of the rod bolts every time they are used. I usually used to disregard nonsense like that... until I measured them one day in an attempt to re-use them...... never again. I use an old-school Matco click-break wrench, but I do have the calibration done every year (which amounts to less than a few hundred torques per wrench, spread out among the 3 I use).... there is a good learning curve to using one properly, that's for sure.

I've seen a lot of builders lately the recommend a resize (or at least a check/hone) on the rods if you change the hardware. A few reputable people in the ZX14 bulding world say they have observed out-of-round on the big end of the rod simply from changing the bolts on a stock rod. I've never measured it myself, but it bears mentioning in this context.
 

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I have worried a lot about the out of round rods and not had any of my stock rods resized. To compensate for for not doing it I'm careful.
First align the longitudinal knurling on the new bolt with the one taken out.
Use a rod cap that has been opened up and a spacer that has been machined square on a lathe.
The rods are sized after the original bolts are pressed in so if the new bolts do not carve new groves there really should not be any additional distortion. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
So far I have done about 10 rod bearing check/replacements on the 05/09 series, and replaced 2 05 crankshafts. Using these engines in cars has it's own unintended consequences and it took a while to get everything worked out; no simple bearing failures although bearings have been damaged all the problems have been related to other failures.


David
 

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can vernier calipers be used?
 

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You could in theory, but it's really hard to fit them into the crankcase where you have to do the measuring. They also have to be kept perfectly perpendicular to the axis of stretch during the torque/measurement... it would be challenging to attempt. :)
 
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