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I know this has been done before, but I think I went a little more in depth. This will be my first attempt at a how to so bear with me. This install for the Rifleman 1/5 was done on my baby, a 05 ZX10R. I cannot tell you how long it will take to install it as I was documenting and taking notes. I will try to attempt to go step by step with pictures all the way to simplify the whole process. Just so you know, this will not be a simple take apart the throttle and put it back together, it will take some time. I wrote this article so that anyone that does not have that good of a mechanical knowledge should be able to follow it.
REMEMBER ALWAYS READ THE WHOLE ARTICAL FIRST, AND AS ALWAYS IF YOU DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING THE INSTALL… DON’T DO IT
When I show you how to get to the second locking nut, it would be a good time to check your spark plugs, change your air filter, remove secondary butterflies, and put in your block off plates. Look at that, killing 5 birds with one stone.
One more thing, you will hear me refer to Drivers side and passenger side. I am not talking about rider and passenger on the bike. It is just to let you know where on the bike as if you had the same orientation to a car.
First you will need to gather all the necessary tools to complete the job.
Here are the tools that I used:
Dremel with cut off wheel and grinder
Screw drivers one long flat head and One Power Philips head
Allen wrenches. Sizes T Handle 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm and 8mm. One L shaped one 8mm
Dikes
10mm socket and Ratchet
One rubber tie down
One rear wheel stand
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And of course the Rifleman 1/5
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Here we go.
This is my baby in all its glory.
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It is best to use a rear stand for stability
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I started with the teardown of my throttle. There are two Philip head screws on the back side.
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Here is a better view from the back.
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I also took the bar end off to make the throttle easier to move so I could work on it better (8mm). I had to use the L shape Allen wrench to break it loose but I used the Allen T wrench to tighten it.
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After
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You will need to slip the throttle housing dust cover off so the two pieces will come apart. (Sorry so dirty, I did not realize it until I took the pics)
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Like so
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Discussion Starter #2
Rifleman 1/5 install part 2

Part One
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Part Two. Notice the two little tabs. These two tabs need to be removed. This is where the Dremel comes in handy. Just grind them down smooth.
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Like so
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Now on to the cable modifications, let’s start with the acceleration cable on the passenger side of the bike, right above the radiator. Just take some dikes and carefully cut the locking washer off and unscrew the two pieces apart.
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Then you will need your Dremel again with a cutoff wheel and be very careful again. This time you can get real close to cutting the actual cable. Just take your time. I cut off about 1/4th inch
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After with the two pieces screwed together as far as they can go.
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Now the easy part is finished, we are on to the hard part. The next locking nut is on the deceleration cable near the throttle bodies. Some say that not all people have to do this, but I did. The next part requires that you take two panels off, a gas tank, and air box. I will take you step by step and show you a way to do this without disconnecting the fuel line.
First you will need to remove your rear seat (Use you key)
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Then remove the two Allan head bolts (4 mm) holding the panel between the rear seat and the rider seat
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Then remove the Allan head bolt (4 mm) holding the rider seat. (My garage Door opener waterproofed in a bag and wired to a remote button on the plastic)
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All seats off
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Rifleman 1/5 install part 3

Then the panels below the rider seat and tank on both sides. There will be one bolt each side (3 mm) and pop them right off
Driver’s side
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Passenger side. This will allow you to remove the Tank. Switch to grip warmers. (Yes I installed them call me a wuss if you want but I ride 110 miles to work at midnight and it is cold as hell out there. At least I’m riding)
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To remove the Tank you will need to remove the two Allen wrench (Size 5mm) screws at the top near the handle bars
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And the bolt on the back side of the tank where the seat meets the tank (10mm) only one side is needed to be loosened as the nut is welded to the tank. Use a ratchet it will be easier.
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Next you will need to remove 3 hoses. Two up front passenger side. On all the hoses I used a long screwdriver to carefully pry the hoses when needed.
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And one in the rear drivers side
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Now here comes the part I was saying at the beginning of this How To. You don’t need to remove the main fuel line from the tank to work on the bike. This reduces spillage of precious petro. For this to work you will need to lift and turn your tank around so the front of the tank faces the rear of the bike. You might want to put something between the fuel pump and the battery just as a safety precaution. (wish I did) It looks like this. The blue tape is where I wrote which of the hoses I disconnected from the front goes where on the tank. (Blue strip left, red strip right)
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Be sure to strap down the tank so it don’t fall and have your bike on a rear stand for better balance. Notice the fuel line is still attached, just make sure that you turn back the way you turned from when putting the tank back on or it will kink.
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Now the Air box. You will need to remove 8 Philips head screws, the cover, and the filter. Like I said. Now would be a good time to change some things like the Air Filter and in a little bit the spark plugs.
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Inside of the air box you will need to remove 5 Allen head bolts (Size 5mm)
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Rifleman 1/5 install part 4

To make the air box easier to remove. I took out the Air Ducts. Don’t be fooled. These things go in deep into the fram (That’s what she said)
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The Air Ducts. The arrows indicate where they fit in the frame.
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Now all you have to do is disconect the sysnsor and the hoses from the botom of the airbox and you are gold. Turn the Air box 90 degrees and pull out. It will come out with ease. And you will be left with the throttle bodies and easy access to the throttle cables. Now would be the time to remove the secondary butterflies, smog inhibiter, and add the block off plates. I made my own with some aluminume rod stock and hose clamps to I can put them back in if I want to. You can buy the plates but I think it is a waist of money. Noone will see them.
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Carefully cut the locking washer with the dikes
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Before tightening
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After tightining. There is no need to cut any of the threading off.
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Now all you have to do is put everything back in the revears order. The only diffrerance is I put the Air Ducts in before the air box. You will need to push them in further than they are supposed to go so that the air box will clear them with ease.
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Then it is all a matter of fitting the ducts to the air box and go from there. To keep this from going on any longer, just go in reverse order.
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The very last thing I did was put the throttle housing back together. I did this last just in case I needed slack but I didn’t.
Here is the Rifleman 1/5 on the throttle body. It took a little work and stretching to get it on but it fit like a glove.
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When you put the throttle housing together look for a little hole in the handlebars
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Discussion Starter #5
Rifleman 1/5 install part 5

Line up the tab on the throttle housing with the tab so they fit perfectly. If you don’t you will have a gap in the housing and things will go wrong.
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Throttle put back together
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Well that is it. I hope this helps anyone out there that is having a hard time doing this.. Remember this is for an 05 ZX10R, I don’t know how this will help with other years other than the 04. I would suggest making this a sticky. If I missed something let me know and I will update, but I think I covered it all.
If you like how I did this write up and you developed something else that needs to be tested on an 05 ZX10R and you need a write up done on it, let me know and I would be more than willing. (If the product is free of course, things are a little tight on money for me)
Thanks
ZaleZ
 

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Great extensive write up!

But fortunately, on ever single insert I ever installed, I never had to adjust the cables under the tank...Some have some haven't...but glad that yours covers under the tank if anyone ever needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, I understand that there are allot of people out there that did not or do not need to get under the tank. I probably did not need to, but after testing it both ways, it felt a little tighter after I did shave a little off the cable. Just some info for the ones that do. Thanks everyone.
 

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thanks dude, this has been added to my signature list of links on install. Very comprehensive, lots of pics and detail..

perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks dude, this has been added to my signature list of links on install. Very comprehensive, lots of pics and detail

perfect.
Thanks Bro. Took two days to write. Did it from memory. Then had my wife read it and see if she could follow it. She is not mecanicaly savvy and was able to
 

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Thanks Bro. Took two days to write. Did it from memory. Then had my wife read it and see if she could follow it. She is not mecanicaly savvy and was able to
Sorry ZaleZ it took so long your Thread should have been Cemented in the "How TO" sections for many reasons it got missed by some Mods....no worries better late than never. :wink:

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=111247

Thanks for your time :thumbsup: also moved to the performance and tech section as well. :wink:


bloo
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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Well done to the OP!! Comprehensive write up on how ANYONE could fit one of Rifleman's inserts. Rep sent.
 

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got mine in just now, no test ride yet. didnt get under the tank, didnt cut any of the lock nuts. It seems to snap closed like normal from what I can remember, seems a little harder to crank the throttle, but Im guessing thats normal. Will have to see how it acts when running. Thanks for the write up!
 

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should not really feel much harder. It should be basically like stock except shorter. Try adjusting your cables a little bit and see if itll be easier. Test it in multiple throttle positions. It should snap back whether you give it 10% 20% 50% 100% throttle very easily.
 

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Would clipping the lock nuts on the throttle cables by the handle bars and adjusting them out further make it easier to roll?
 

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yeah it does. I ditched the lock nuts on mine under the airbox as well as the forward ones to get more slack. try it and see what happens. Shouldnt be any binding though.
 
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