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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a trick to removing the clutch basket on a 2nd gen? I've pulled the bearing and the sleeve. I've still not got enough room to pull the basket or I've missed something somewhere.

As long as I'm starting a thread, I'm looking for a knock that sounds like it's in the clutch. It's been slowly getting louder over the years. I was expecting to find a basket with loose rivets. So far, I can't tell. The basket did slide a fair bit in and out. Maybe that means something.

06 10r with 35k on the clock. Never raced, no clutch ups, no abuse since purchasing used in 08.
 

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Do you mean the roller needle bearing and sleeve from the center of the flywheel??? if you have done all of that then with a pull outward dropping the wheel down and left onto the shaft it should come out wiggling bottom left out first, can you post a picture?
 

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Oh, for crying out loud. I was in such a hurry to get this done that I completely forgot to set TDC. Thanks for the tip.

Yeah, don't beat yourself up over a simple mistake like that. That's our job as forum members! :wink: :lol: I mean...to help you out, not beat you up over it. :badteeth::biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sounds maybe silly, but is a crankshaft lobe blocking the removal of your clutch basket? On a gen 4 this can happen.
Evidently, it's not a silly suggestion at all. You were 100% correct. Thanks!

Yeah, don't beat yourself up over a simple mistake like that. That's our job as forum members! :wink: :lol: I mean...to help you out, not beat you up over it. :badteeth::biggrin:
That's what I'm afraid of!

The basket and associated parts are all good. I've got troubles elsewhere. As time allows, I'll poke around further and update this thread. I appreciate the help/suggestions.

ETA I'm a big fat liar. Evidently, the basket is NOT good. The springs in the back are mostly loose. They're supposed to have a bit of preload on them per a local independent shop. The rivets are fine, and that was what I thought would be bad. Furthermore, there are the beginnings of grooves on the basket from the clutch plates. Initially, I thought they were nothing more than marks. With my fingernail, I can feel them. Sooo...... This is going to cost me a bit of money. I'll see if I can even get a stock basket and hope this solves the noise issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I may be talking to myself at this point. Gen2 ZX10s are mostly extinct-I can't remember the last time I saw one on the road. In the event that someone stumbles upon this in a search one day, I'm going to keep updating the thread.

The bad clutch basket advice that I was given was absolute horseshit. He may have genuinely believed that's what it was-but it wasn't.

That annoys me double because I spent money I don't have on parts I didn't need. Now I'm going to have to spend more money that I don't have to dive deeper.

I can't even sell the thing with this noise unless I give it away. Heck, even in top shape, it's a high mileage almost 13 year old bike. I won't see much money from it anyway.

The old lady got a bit stern with me last night when I talked about selling. "We can't afford a new one and you can't be without a bike, so you have e to fix this." Ha! Like I needed another reason to know she was the right woman for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No clutch issues at all. It was working fine with the original plates even at 35k. I opened it up chasing a noise. A shop owner of a very reputable shop in town said that he thought it was the basket. He wouldn't work on the bike though. Evidently, he was wrong. I'm too old, fat and stiff to be dicking around with this on the garage floor anymore. I'm taking it to another guy out of town who's got some experience with 1st and 2nd gens. He going to give me some feedback and if it's not catastrophic I'll schedule an appointment for him to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
New info. The starter clutch was bad. Replaced a gear, bearing and something else to no avail. Turns out the crank is bent. No shit. The guys think that the gears on the crank not spinning true slowly beat the starter clutch gear into submission. With the looser tolerances, it made noise. I'm too tired and frustrated to think straight.

I'd much rather fix this one way or another than part the bike out. I can't afford another bike and I've got far too much into this one to just walk away-even though I probably should. I just can't do it. Besides, I can't in good conscience sell it to somebody like this. That's a low class move. So I've got a rolling chassis of Ohlins goodness that I can't ride.

Crankshafts don't bend themselves. The previous owner had crashed it when it was new and I was aware of it. I went over the bike with a fine tooth comb looking for signs of a poor repair, leaks, scuffs, steering stop damage, frame damage, bad shifting-anything. Aside from a ding in the radiator and the occasional scuffed bolt, I didn't see anything. It tracked straight, it shifted properly, it sounded right. Seems that it took a harder hit than I'd bargained for and now I have to deal with it-10 years later.
 

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There's always positives my friend, so the crank needs replacing, this is a ideal time to build that engine into something truly breathtakingly powerful, even if you borrow money it'll be worth that grin factor. Lighten balance & edge the replacement crank, 35k on the engine! I would go big bore with good headwork and cams.................... have you got the idea
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There's always positives my friend, so the crank needs replacing, this is a ideal time to build that engine into something truly breathtakingly powerful, even if you borrow money it'll be worth that grin factor. Lighten balance & edge the replacement crank, 35k on the engine! I would go big bore with good headwork and cams.................... have you got the idea
You've got a point and I've been playing with ideas. But I don't have the funds and this is a street bike. I need more power above 8 grand like I need a third testicle. For the tight twisties that I like, I don't spend much time way up the rev band.

The last bike I bored out was an 87 CBR1000F. Yes, kids, the CBR has been around longer than you've been alive. I put a 1050 kit with higher compression in and it ran great but it ran hotter than a whore in church. That was always concerning to me.

I was up late last night on the KWS website destroying my financial life with dreams of a built motor. Maybe I'm too old these days but I there just wasn't much appeal for for it on this bike. It would be a hoot for a bit just to scare myself but I think it would make for a shit streetbike. If I had my druthers, I'd magically make my aftermarket stuff fit on an RC51 and go back to one of those. It always comes down to $ and my lack of it.

I'm bummed.
 

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So you have 2 options, rebuild the motor you have or buy in a replacement hopefully with good history. Maybe you can find someone there to take your old motor on exchange. If you were here I would do that for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's about time to update this thread. I managed to get my hands on a used motor and had it swapped in. During the swap, 2 things were discovered. First, the donor motor had an intake cam with a blown out freeze plug. That caused some interesting wear. The mechanic used my old cam and buckets to solve that issue. Then, it was discovered that my old stator connection was cooked. WTF goes on here? This is the 4th stator I've burned up in this bike. How it even ran is beyond me. I wouldn't go so far as to say this bike has been a shit box but it certainly has it's issues and hasn't been reliable. The mechanic had to cut out melted harness on my old carcass of a bike and solder in new connections. I've ridden the bike and it seems to work quite nicely. It's been 6 months since I had taken the ZX out so it was a refreshing ride. Anyway, I had to update this as it's frustrating to dig through threads that have no resolution. Keep your fingers crossed that this stator lives a good long time.
 

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