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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at removing the ABS lines on my 2017 ZX10R.
Had a look round but can't find any videos or threads about actual removal.
It looks like it could be quite messy with all the lines and brake fluid etc, anyone got any tips or point me in the direction of a how-to description?
 

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You should be referencing the Service Manual for things like that. You're in for a treat if you want to undertake all that. The hard lines that route around the engine and swingarm are the main concerns. Along with the splitter blocks. It's not hard to remove them once you get to them, but you just follow the routing of each of the lines and unbolt to remove them. Evacuate all the fluid before you even start unbolting any of the banjo bolts and keep a few rags handy.
 

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@tcbandituk are you planning on replacing the ABS lines or removing the ABS system?

If replacing you need a ABS eliminator that plugs into the stock ABS controller UNLESS you are using a Kawasaki KIT ecu, then the ABS controller along with the lines is completely removed.

Removal of the lines is not difficult but all bodywork, tank, airbox, etc needs to be removed to do the job properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm removing the whole system.
Basically I'm converting a road bike to a track bike.
Tank, airbox etc are already off as I'm removing all the clean air crap and anything not needed.
It would be easier to leave the ABS stuff where it is and just disable it, but I like to remove anything that's redundant.
Looking at it, I'm thinking it might be easier to just cut some of the lines (once the system's drained 😁) and remove them that way rather than trying to get them out whole...
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20201202_125310.jpg
 

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I'm removing the whole system.
Basically I'm converting a road bike to a track bike.
Tank, airbox etc are already off as I'm removing all the clean air crap and anything not needed.
It would be easier to leave the ABS stuff where it is and just disable it, but I like to remove anything that's redundant.
Looking at it, I'm thinking it might be easier to just cut some of the lines (once the system's drained 😁) and remove them that way rather than trying to get them out whole...
I get that you want to remove everything not need. That's the way to go. The hard lines will be difficult to cut since you have to crush them as they are cut. Obviously they won't be able to ever be able to be reused again if you do that. That will leave some sharp edges that you need to be cautious of when removing them around wiring. If there's any reason you might want to return it back to stock in the future, you wouldn't be able to do that. If you want to cut them, you can, but they should be able to be removed without doing that.

The other option would be to just leave those hard lines in place and just bypass/ignore them. If the ABS module and the rubber lines are removed then those rigid lines will be the only thing still on the bike and you don't need to worry about them.
 

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@tcbandituk all the 2016+ ZX-10R(R) I have owned and built into track bikes had the steel lines cut - get rid of em!

That is the easy way to get it done. Keep in mind, if you are having custom brake lines built be sure to take into account the extended length of the forks.

Galfer has a custom order sheet here --> Galfer | Custom Lines

I try to use a design like this...

446963
 

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And also go longer for the rear. I’m sure the OEM caliper and bracket will annoy you enough to go underslung set up in the future for easier wheel swaps. Also, each aftermarket rear set is different. Plan brake line length accordingly.

Case in point, I swapped from Vortex to Attack rear sets and my old SS line was all of the sudden too short for the new rear sets.

446964
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies.
Not bothered about chopping the lines up, it'll only ever be a track bike now.
But I'll remove what I can remove easily, then look at what's left and decide what to do.
I'll probably go to MSS Racing for the brake lines here in the UK as I suspect they will have the correct sizes for ABS removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And it was all going so well...
Removed about 90% of it (surprised just how much [email protected] there was!)
But there's one block that sits by the swingarm and the bolt is right against the swingarm with no way to get it off currently.
Luckily I'm replacing the shock soon, so I'm hoping the swingarm will drop down enough to undo the bolt, otherwise it might have to be a cold chisel job...

20201221_125833.jpg
 

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You can just move the junction block to loosen the bolt and remove the assembly without removing the swing arm. I was reading through this thread waiting for someone to mention it, but you obviously beat them to it. You can get at that bolt and remove it without removing the swing arm, I believe with the room made by removing the shock as you are going to do gives you enough room to do so, good luck.

Ive done this myself on a track bike that also had the kit harness and ECU. While it isnt super easy or time friendly but we were removing the motor for some work as well, so without that in place made things much easier. And yes there is quite a lot actually, surprised how much there was and also how it was routed along the frame up top and around the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You can just move the junction block to loosen the bolt and remove the assembly without removing the swing arm. I was reading through this thread waiting for someone to mention it, but you obviously beat them to it. You can get at that bolt and remove it without removing the swing arm, I believe with the room made by removing the shock as you are going to do gives you enough room to do so, good luck.

Ive done this myself on a track bike that also had the kit harness and ECU. While it isnt super easy or time friendly but we were removing the motor for some work as well, so without that in place made things much easier. And yes there is quite a lot actually, surprised how much there was and also how it was routed along the frame up top and around the engine.
Got it off in the end, The swing arm doesn't clear it at all..
Can't decide if it was either good design tolerance or poor design and a stroke of luck that there is literally just enough space to remove it with a bit of luck and patience :rolleyes:
Anyway done now and a nice new K-Tech shock installed.
More or less ready to put the tank back on now I think and then look at fitting the new brake lines after cleaning the calipers.....
 

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So I'm actually doing this myself right now as well.
I've been told that I will need to leave the pump in place and plugged in with the oem loom, is this correct ??
Without the ABS lines removed I just had the Kawasaki dongle plugged in before, but I have my engine out now so decided to remove all the lines.
I'd love to get the ECU/loom but the cost is too much new for me. I'll wait until one comes up second hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was planning on using one of these.
 

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I was planning on using one of these.
That's perfect, I'll be getting one, thanks for that info.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When I did mine I removed the lower fuel rail to make it easier but not the throttle bodies.
I also cut the brake lines just above the ABS unit with some side cutters to get it out.
 

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So I removed the whole ABS system. Engine is out so it was easy and no cutting of any lines necessary. Well worth it, pics will show how much I removed and the minimalist replacement lines. I've now got a kit ECU and harness so no issues with faults. The button head bolt that's located by the swing arm holding one of the junctions comes off by turning first the junction fitting to loosen the bolt and then pliers or hand loosening it, it is the same length as the gap so does undo completely, just.
 

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K
So I removed the whole ABS system. Engine is out so it was easy and no cutting of any lines necessary. Well worth it, pics will show how much I removed and the minimalist replacement lines. I've now got a kit ECU and harness so no issues with faults. The button head bolt that's located by the swing arm holding one of the junctions comes off by turning first the junction fitting to loosen the bolt and then pliers or hand loosening it, it is the same length as the gap so does undo completely, just.
 

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