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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I have done this on every bike I own, but the Kawi's are a little different. My Suzuki, Honda and Yamaha had one line going from the tank to the canister, not 2 like the Kawi's. The second line on the Kawi is a return from the charcoal canister. I dont understand why it needs that, but what ever.

I already removed the system on my ZX-10r, but I will take pictures next time I have the tank off to show very clearly what I did. I cant find a truely clear how to for this, so I hope it helps.

Anyway, here is how to do it in words, until I get pictures. I downloaded the service manual. It very clearly says that Blue dot = breather, Red dot = return.

So whatever your bike, locate the canister, they can be all over the bike. On the kawi's they seem to be up front in the fairing. On the ZX10r, it is on the right, directly under the panel under the right clip on.

You need to lift gas tank. That is where the lines come from. Like the manual says, the Blue is breather, Red is return. Cap the Red dot, you no longer have anything returning. Run the Blue dot down the left fairing with your fuel cap over fill line (that is the unmarked one on the left side, under the tank)

Remove the canister. Now you have 2 more hoses going under the frame, to the throttle bodies. One goes from the bottom of the seperator valve(the book says its white, I couldnt find a marking on mine) to the throttle bodies, the other from the canister, this one is green and mine was green. The proper way to fix these, is to cap both ports on the throttle bodies with vacuum caps. But if you dont want to remove your air box, you can just join these 2 lines together. There are a few plastic joints in the left over hoses from the charcoal canister. You can also trim these lines shorter, that is up to you. I trimmed mine a little and fed them under the frame and they sit next to the air box right now. Capping them or joining them closes the system.

That is it. That is all you have to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is a picture of the two vent ports on the gas tank, blue dot = breath, red dot = return (cap this one)

Please dont be confused by the red mark on the line coming off the blue dot port, but the red line was long enough to get down to the bottom of the fairing.



Here is a picture of the vent line, you can just see the red band on it inside the fairing.




I forgot to take a picture of the two lines joined up on top by the airbox, I will take that picture next time I am under there.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Weight. Also, in extreme curcumstances, you can flood the bike. Like I said, I have done this on every bike I own. The reason is this. My first bike was a Suzuki DRZ motard. Well, if you filled it to the bottom of the filler neck, then road, it would run for 5 minutes and die. After tons of searching (dealer could not figure it out) I learned this. The full tank gets hot from the motor and the gas expands and overfills into the canister, then it floods the canister and then that floods the motor and it wont run.

See, Suzuki didnt have the "dont over fill" sticker on top of the tank like the ZX10r does. I wasnt even over filling anyway, but that is the issue.

So you are curing that potential issue, plus removing extra crap and a small amount of weight. Also, fewer lines on intake, mean fewer potential vacuum leaks. It really isnt that important for most people, but if you plan on doing track plastics, you need to do something with that canister, seing as it is bolted to the body.

I do it out of habit. First I did my DRZ, then my F4i, then my SV1000, then my R1 and now I did it on this bike.

Long winded, sorry. Make sense?
 

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thanks for the response and yes makes sense. And fyi this bike will be an easy track build for you, I have taken this bike apart plenty of times. even the wiring harness is a cinch on this bike and easy task as well. By the way exhaust wise for performance and weight purposes plus for the bang for your buck on quality, cant go wrong with the M4 or graves. And as far as the race ECU if you can afford it do it! If your a serious racer its worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cool, that is what I like to hear. And yes, I am strongly considering the race ECU. I have to sell the afor mentioned F4i to gain some cash for this bike, but then it will be play time and I will be doing a bunch to it.

I'm still indecided on exhaust. We shall see.

Thanks for the input.
 

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I don't think the new kawi's are like the old with the large canisters, etc. This set up is used to allow the fuel tank to properly vent. You can remove the canister, but keep the seperator and keep the tank connected to the throttle bodies and the seperator. If you disconnect the system it will cause the bike to see lean condition on the big end(top end). I expeirenced this first hand onn all of my Kawi's. If it wasn't equiped with this set up, I installed it
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I dont really think this would cause a lean condition, considering that you will get different vapor flow depending on how full your tank is. I'm not certain on that, but pretty sure.

Edit: Also, this system only links to 2 of 4 throttle bodies, so it would only richen up 2 of 4 cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had the bike apart again this weekend to install smog block off plates and a PC5, so I finished up this evap removal totally.

Here you can see where the two hoses I linked were running next to the throttle bodies.



Here you can see the hoses and where they go down to the throttle bodies.



And here you see very well, but I circled the vacuum caps I used to close up the throttle bodies. No wire clips are needed as the stock caps on the other throttle bodies do not have them.

 

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I had the bike apart again this weekend to install smog block off plates and a PC5, so I finished up this evap removal totally.

Here you can see where the two hoses I linked were running next to the throttle bodies.



Here you can see the hoses and where they go down to the throttle bodies.



And here you see very well, but I circled the vacuum caps I used to close up the throttle bodies. No wire clips are needed as the stock caps on the other throttle bodies do not have them.

First of, excellent work on the write-up! There is another one on this site, but this one is excellent as well and the more there are, the more clearly it can be done by other members, so great job. The only thing I wanted to add on to was about the vacuum caps. I know you said that you dont need wire clips or anything, but just to be sure about it, I used small zip ties when I did mine because I wanted to be certain theyd stay on. Just wanted to throw in that option to others. :eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Better safe than sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No cons at all. Non California bikes don't have the system at all, so removing it doesn't effect anything. (newest bikes might require a bumper wire, my gf's ninja 300 threw an engine light when I removed hers, a simple jumper wire fixed it)

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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No cons at all. Non California bikes don't have the system at all, so removing it doesn't effect anything.
I bought my bike in AZ (AZ doesn't require bikes to be emission tested) and it had the system. I removed it along with the PAIR system and installed block off plates. Are ya sayin that even though I bought my bike in AZ it was a California bike???
 

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Speed:

I bought my bike at Performance Cycle Center in Tucson; it came with the hippy California shit. That shit got ripped right out. Doesn't matter where it's bought. I've worked on a few up here in Minnesota/North Dakota that are Cali bikes that were bought from the dealership. Inventory moves but the bikes operate the same. It's just California has different emissions requirements than the rest of the country.

To tell, simply look on the inside of your right (brake) upper fairing. If you see some charcoal canisters yours is a CA model. Another dead giveaway are the red and blue vent tubes. Normal bikes only have two, not three.

Also, on the newer bikes, the FI code for removing the emissions stuff can be flashed out. I know on the new 636 it can be.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea, that is all true. There are def bikes that don't come with that crap tho. For instance, I just bought a tank off eBay and it didn't have the red evap nipple on the tank. So it couldn't have had the evap system.

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Discussion Starter #19
Chris, I believe that 1/2 caps fit perfect. I can check for sure when I get home. Getting actual metric caps is hard.
 
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