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Discussion Starter #1
where do most racers relocate their regulator? mounted on stock plastics but wont work with race bodywork.

thinking i'll have to fabricate a bracket and mount to frame.

a pic would be greatly appreciated
 

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I have mine mounted to one of the bolt holes left from removing the front sprocket cover. I was able to use the bracket from the fairing with an extra hole drilled in it for the mount. I tried using the small tabs that are already on the bracket, but they broke because of vibrations, so that is why I drilled a new hole in the bracket to mount it.

 

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I have mine mounted to one of the bolt holes left from removing the front sprocket cover. I was able to use the bracket from the fairing with an extra hole drilled in it for the mount. I tried using the small tabs that are already on the bracket, but they broke because of vibrations, so that is why I drilled a new hole in the bracket to mount it.

Nicely done Kman.

Sean, you may know this already since I saw your WTB ad for the kit oil catch tank, but it is designed to bolt the reg to it...

http://www.untamedvelocity.com/2011 ZX10R racebike build.htm

Another benefit of the race kit oil catch tank is that it includes a new location for the voltage regulator, relocating it from the stock upper fairing mount to the left side of the engine. The only issue here is that one of the three-wire harnesses leading to the voltage regulator has to be lengthened in order to relocate the regulator; this harness leads to the black connector as shown in the left photo above. Note that the left (gray) connector has enough spare wiring to simply be re-routed to the new location.

After splicing the harness to the black connector and lengthening it approximately 12" using 10 gauge and 12 gauge wire (to match the OEM wires), it's time to prepare the mounting site. In the center photo above, the arrows show where the catch tank mounting brackets will be bolted and the circles point out two crankcase bolts with copper washers under them. Since copper washers are an indication there is fluid behind the bolt (oil), these need to be safety wired before being hidden away behind the catch tank. Mark the bolts and remove them, then drill the bolts with a 3/32" bit and re-install them with safety wire as shown.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
awesome. thanks, kman. that will do it.

yea, blanco, that's one of the reasons i was looking for one but turns out that those little things are high dollar.
 

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After 2 days of thinking about this and weighing out the options of splicing more wire onto the harness to make it long enough to move it back to the sprocket area or even further I just said screw this stupid shit and decided to bolt the damn thing right to the inside pocket of the upper race fairing. Problem solved.
 

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What we did before getting the oil catch tank was drilled two holes in the sprocket cover worked a treat.
 

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Did you use any kind of rubber damper to reduce the vibratration going into the regulator? Did you have any issues with longevity bolting it directly to sprocket cover? Thanks.
 

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Did you use any kind of rubber damper to reduce the vibratration going into the regulator? Did you have any issues with longevity bolting it directly to sprocket cover? Thanks.
This is absolutely necessary. Also protection from heat. I went through 2 R/R because of this.
 

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Hmmm, I just left mine dangle in the left pocket of my race fairings. Raced it all year like that with no problem. :)
I was thinking the easiest place to mount it would be inside the fairing behind the frame slider. I had it double sided taped there, but after a couple of sessions it came off. It also was rubbing against that rubber hose right there as well, so that worried me. I was thinking about repositioning it and drilling a couple holes in the fairing and mounting it there. It seems like it will have the least amount of issues there, but in a low side the screws in the fairing may get grounded down so I won't be able to get them out.

I will see if I can come up with something from some parts and screws from Sears and Autozone.
 
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