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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How have y'all's 4th gens treated you in the long run?

Sort of venting here, this is my first Kawasaki and I'm finding it hard to not lemon law the damn thing.

Bought New 204 hold over. Had OEM paint issues within the first month, Kawasaki did awesome and replaced everything. Back in October my speedometer started going nuts. One minute I'm doing 60 mph then all of a sudden I'm doing 174 mph, then 0 mph, and everything in-between. ABS light on, ESD light on, F1 light on, traction control bar all lit up....

Dropped it off at the dealer Oct. 18th. They did awesome and told me they were going to replace the ECU on the 23rd... Hadn't heard a word since until I called on the 22nd of December where they magically "Just finished it up"... Picked it up and within 5 minutes the speedometer is going nuts again, so I dropped it back off immediatly. Dealer replaced ECU and both wheel speed sensors.

Any ideas on what could be causing this? I don't have faith in the dealer finding a fix and it is lemon law eligible, been under repair for more than 30 days consecutively. Love the bike but I'd eat about 3 grand to replace it and all the trouble its giving me doesn't give me much faith in the long term...

Sorry for the rambling and being all over the place, just frustrated my bike has been down 3 out of the 8 months I've owned it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How's the battery?

I raced mine for 3 years and only had issues with the reg/rec but it was my fault. It treated me well.
New battery installed in May. No issues starting. Haven't been able to put a meter on it as it's out of my hands right now, giving the dealer another chance to fix it. Still under warranty which is why I'm not messing with it.

This 50*F December weather and parts money in the bank is just getting to me :laugh2:
 

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Sounds like a pretty shit dealer, id say the issue is pretty clear.

They need to replace the speed sensor AND the speed sensor discs on the front and rear wheel, that is why you are getting very strange readings on the dash because the discs on the wheels if they are damaged in any way will cause the speedo to display weird readings as the gap that the speed sensor magnet is picking up is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like a pretty shit dealer, id say the issue is pretty clear.

They need to replace the speed sensor AND the speed sensor discs on the front and rear wheel, that is why you are getting very strange readings on the dash because the discs on the wheels if they are damaged in any way will cause the speedo to display weird readings as the gap that the speed sensor magnet is picking up is off.
Thank you, this is the exact stuff I was looking for that makes you guys awesome.

I was able to find the gap in the service manual, the only negative is there is a note saying the gap cannot be adjusted. Looks like I'm going to try and have them replace the hub bearings along with it.


12-48 Brakes; KIBS (Equiped Models)
Wheel Rotation Sensor Air Gap
Standard:
Front 0.4 ∼ 1.6 mm (0.02 ∼ 0.06 in.)
Rear 0.4 ∼ 1.6 mm (0.02 ∼ 0.06 in.)

NOTE
○The sensor air gap cannot be adjusted.
 

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I have the '11 and the '13. 50,000 on former with blown up crank bearing, both seals leaked around 30k or earlier, paint wore off the tank from the monkey suit; radiator is too weak as it was holed around 30k.

I reported all of the above to Kawa on their survey except the blown bearing and the weak radiator has those probs did not come up at that time.

The '13 has 61,000. Paint much improved but wearing yet NOT down to the metal like the '11. Fork seals working. Bike is on the same loop as '11 showing Kawa listens to clients. Bike running strong and on this one bought the extended. Radiator was replaced at 40k and cam replaced same time the latter under warranty.

'13 has hit two deer one vulture and one nice sized rock about 10-15; rock was shaped like a ramp in shadow. No damage from rock with some cracked plastic and the bottom bolt plastic broke. Zip tied that.

With the exception of the blown bearing, the 10r is solid. Dealer diagnosed the '11 as bearing problem and reported oil looked in good condition.

oem batteries are weak; Shorai works. np with any of your issues. I'm not planning on a future 10r but have not studied CBR or gixxers yet.

g4's are good; I would say excellent if it wasn't for the blown '11 with its stupid weak seals and paper mache radiator.
 

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I have the '11 and the '13. 50,000 on former with blown up crank bearing, both seals leaked around 30k or earlier, paint wore off the tank from the monkey suit; radiator is too weak as it was holed around 30k.

I reported all of the above to Kawa on their survey except the blown bearing and the weak radiator has those probs did not come up at that time.

The '13 has 61,000. Paint much improved but wearing yet NOT down to the metal like the '11. Fork seals working. Bike is on the same loop as '11 showing Kawa listens to clients. Bike running strong and on this one bought the extended. Radiator was replaced at 40k and cam replaced same time the latter under warranty.

'13 has hit two deer one vulture and one nice sized rock about 10-15; rock was shaped like a ramp in shadow. No damage from rock with some cracked plastic and the bottom bolt plastic broke. Zip tied that.

With the exception of the blown bearing, the 10r is solid. Dealer diagnosed the '11 as bearing problem and reported oil looked in good condition.

oem batteries are weak; Shorai works. np with any of your issues. I'm not planning on a future 10r but have not studied CBR or gixxers yet.

g4's are good; I would say excellent if it wasn't for the blown '11 with its stupid weak seals and paper mache radiator.

Wtf, you blew the 11 by not putting oil in it for 50k miles. That had nothing to do with the motor.
 

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It had a couple changes. Oil is way better now than when most of the old guys here were young.[/QUOTE


the increase performance in engine oil is one of the key things that enables the huge power increase you get from a modern bike engine, the demands of oil in one of todays engines is far superior to say my old z1000j3 that put out 100hp
my gen 5 cost me 21 grand so why not spend 50 bucks on oil when its due ,
 

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It had a couple changes. Oil is way better now than when most of the old guys here were young.[/QUOTE


the increase performance in engine oil is one of the key things that enables the huge power increase you get from a modern bike engine, the demands of oil in one of todays engines is far superior to say my old z1000j3 that put out 100hp
my gen 5 cost me 21 grand so why not spend 50 bucks on oil when its due ,
Do what you want. I always say that. I've never noted any increase in power from an oil change!
 

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Do what you want. I always say that. I've never noted any increase in power from an oil change!
Totally agree, never said you got more power from an oil change
if you don't want to do oil changes then don't do them. that's your choice, but you can't blame the bike when the motor goes bang, and then bag its reliability
each to there own I suppose
 
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