Yes, count with 3-4k expense with bearing fail. Have went through it with gen4, repair dimention bearing shells are not avaliable, therefore new crank etc, etc. And like Skydork said, don't start engine anymore before sorting it out.
Lets think what can be the root cause!
Can be more that one of the following:
*Low quality oil filter does not flow as it should. I use only OEM.
*Low quality or too thin oil. I use 10W40 only. Thiker W50 I would personally not run, because on my engine bearings were on tight limit (2012 bike)!
*There is abrasive action going on and bearing are already done.
*Oil pressure switch is out of tolerance and gives false alarm.
*Bad oil pump.
*Possible, but highly unlikely: bad pressure relief valve, manufacturing error causing oil leak inside engine.
Here is what I would do before even thinking to start engine:
*Drain oil, check for oil contamination.
*Pull oil pan, to see that there is no metal dust residues in corners, check relief valve in pan.
*Pull oil pump to see if all surfaces are smooth.
*New oil, new filter.
Important: Normally when oil is changed and no delay between draining oil, pressure primes quickly.
But your oil pump is dry, resistanse in filter is there and if pressure is not building up then youknow what happens.
At first start turn oil filter loose, that much that oil would spill out. Run engine with loose filter only for one seconds to not cause much mess.
Tighten filter, clean, staring again and see that oil level drops in window.
Kawa dealer could be able to measure oil pressure, but YOU make sure that boys at dealer do at least change oil, filter. Do they check that pressure primed? Probably not! I never trust nice official (car) dealer places, every other time they do something wrong in hurry. Worth a separated thread "got screwed by bad dealer's mechanics".
