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Discussion Starter #1
hi im a light weight guy. i only weigh 120 lbs. and the stock set up is for 150 rider. well i was looking through the owner manual and it didnt give me specs. on it. i adjusted the front and rear rebound and compression. not sure what specs are for the rear preload. when i set on the bike it doesnt even move down at all. so any help will greatly be appreciated. thanks
 

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Hillbillie Mod
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Howdy! :hello:


25mm rider sag
 

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My guess is that you'll need the rear preload just about all the way out. It's easier to adjust if you take the shock off first.
 

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Would anyone care to comment if the front end got more or less stable when they backed off on the preload? It stands to reason that it would get more stable since the rake would be more conservative.
 

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Typically (and i mean typically) good reputable baseline sag #'s for the majority of street bikes is 33-35mm front with 30-32mm rear.

There is an internal bottoming cone in the forks that create problems for those wanting to use the 33-35mm of total sag settings in that when the forks compress heavilly under load and get to the bottom of the stroke they get very firm very fast, hence no travel left, hence fall down go boom boom :sad: (not good) so setting the total sag # near 30-32mm with preload works much better with respect to the bottoming cone, now what is not good at these settings is the front of the bike is raised due to preload being dialed in so one choice you have to counteract this is you can either raise the tubes in the triple clamp/s an additional 1-2mm over stock or raise the rear if your so inclined.
Top Shelf has had his share of experience with these types of geometry changes on the 10 so he can shed more technical light then i if he wonders through here.

BD
 

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Top Shelf, will tell you what he told me, get the spring rate correct before touching anything. The valving in the rear shock is off for most and requires the compression almost totally backed out, this could be because of spring rate, but why not just get the thing revalved when it is resprung or replace with suitable replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thank you all for your help... im gona try out the sag setting u all gave me.. ill let u know how it did. once again.. thank you all so much for your help.
 

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If none of this works I could give you about 100 lbs of ass. I've got plenty. :thumbsup:
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Too much.
 

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Nasty10R said:
anyone know what the stock rear spring rate is?
mmmmmmmm i was informed its 525lb but have not verified myself.

BD
 

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.90 is front rate, and racetech is probably what you used and will rate you lower than most people recommend. Actually following others recommendations the front springs are just perfect, maybe a tad too stiff.
The rears are rated in 400+ lbs - 675 lbs or there abouts. Check traxxion.com for spring rate charts.

BD, you happen to have the shock length eye to eye written down? I know the Penske you said was 4.5mm longer, so I'm just trying to get a measurement as its not in the service manual.
 

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The vast majority of folks enquireing about such highly classified departmental info pay mucho denero to the source(me) so my paypal lines are open for just 5 more min while i search my files............

















































ahhhhhhhhhhhh fugg it 13 3/8th or 339.7mm bc to bc :1848: :rotflmao:

BD
 

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You were talking the stock one not the penske correct?



Alright, the Ohlins is 338, so you need a 2mm shim to make the length equal. Alas, you can't get a 2mm shim, you can only get 3mm, so you will have to increase the ride height 1mm from stock if you get an Ohlins.

Yowsers, I just remembered I used a 16mm nut from a '98 zx6r on my '03 636. This nut makes the ride height adjustable when ever you darn well feel like it. This means you can get the PRC and use the nut at the clevis for any adjustability you would like :eek:)
Miykl, took me to coon ass school.
 
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