Rear shock adjustment

What is your body weight? wet. Second question is why do you think the shock is a problem.

scout said:

What is your body weight? wet. Second question is why do you think the shock is a problem.

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I'm 235 and it wallows in the turns, need it stiffer. Static sag is also too much.

I know what I like :grin2:

g-man said:

I'm 235 and it wallows in the turns, need it stiffer. Static sag is also too much.

I know what I like :grin2:

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yes you need to upgrade, assuming the heavy g5 shock is similar to the lighter g4. 235 is way heavy for the g4. I know that there are some huge riders here and I think they all complained.

the wallow is not enough weight over the side in combination with light throttle or coasting. Bike is standing up in the turn. The bike is asking for the rider to apply slightly more weight. Get helmet close to mirror. Remember, the faster the flick the faster the turn. Flick and even throttle.

The heavy rider needs a stiffer shock for rough straights. A stiff shock will not help the turn if the bike fails to have enough weight over. g4 takes very little weight change.

You know what you don't like, which is good. The bike doesn't like your twist strategy as you're confusing the bike. You're telling it to go straight but your mind wants to turn. thus, stand-up or 'wallow.' I've noted some other mega fat guys do very well on smooth asphalt with oem shock.

Dunno about access on the G5, but I've used a heavy hammer with a blunt chisel on my g3. Works fine if you take your time and unload the suspension first, ie jack it up to take the load off the shock

I just adjusted one....you can get away with an old factory tool kit spanner wrench , chisels and hammer.
On average the rear spring/shock on the Kaw 1000ccs are made to support a 249lbs rider since it was made to carry 2 up.
Our bikes come set all the way out aka soft....so you can spool it up some...id dial it up about 25%.
look at the threads...divide it up into 4 and dial it up 1/4th / 25%.
test...then dial some more.

Vonstallin said:

I just adjusted one....you can get away with an old factory tool kit spanner wrench , chisels and hammer.
On average the rear spring/shock on the Kaw 1000ccs are made to support a 249lbs rider since it was made to carry 2 up.
Our bikes come set all the way out aka soft....so you can spool it up some...id dial it up about 25%.
look at the threads...divide it up into 4 and dial it up 1/4th / 25%.
test...then dial some more.

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Thanks, on my list of things to do!

Okay, for some reason, I ended up with two sets of these wrenches. I think they sell for $60 each new, but if someone wants the set for $100 shipped (CONUS), let me know!

Kawasaki Hook Wrench T=3.2 R37 Part# 57001-1539
Kawasaki Hook Wrench R=35 Part# 57001-1580

Page 13-25 of the Full Service Manual

If you can't get the static sag right then you will need a new spring at 235 you probably need a stiffer spring.

TechX said:

If you can't get the static sag right then you will need a new spring at 235 you probably need a stiffer spring.

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Probably correct, but will give it a try first.

I wonder how hard it will be to disassemble this thing if a new spring is needed. We have a spring compression tool that worked for my TL1000 years ago.

Hi , what do you have your static sag set at ?
30mm . As I feel mine also feel to soft.


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Bottoms-Up said:

Changing the spring out is pretty easy.

Check out Racetech's spring rate calculator.

This will be the least expensive shock upgrade path.

Race Tech Suspension

Here's my spring compressor.......

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:surprise:

FlexIt said:

Hi , what do you have your static sag set at ?
30mm . As I feel mine also feel to soft.


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I think you are confusing Static Sag with Rider Sag (Dynamic) or are you guys really getting 30mm of static sag???

Wait a min.
I have the solution. Was going to make a video to show how its done but its not hard to explain.
I used 12mm wide cable ties and threaded them through the spring each side.
Sit 2 people on the bike and tighten up cable ties.
Lift rear wheel off ground and it there is hardly any force on the nuts then so you can tap the lock nut undone and use blunt tool to adjust the nut up. Cut ties off. Job done.
Fiddly to get ties in but you dont have to remove a thing to do it.

hi im 227 lb not including riding gear , the back shock on gen 5 seems very harsh over cracked roads , im going to order a stiffer spring would a 115nm spring be good ?

You're opening a can of worms here. If you're going to adjust the rear ride frequency you're going to want to adjust the front too. If you only adjust half of your suspension on the butt-comfort-calibrator you're bike's going to ride like garbage in the turns and probably buck your a** off if your hit a bump. You're going to want to invest in a fork cartridge kit with a higher spring rate too.
K-Tech technicians told me the OEM spring rates for the Gen5 are, "87N rear 11N front for 2016> ZX10R."
Consider this: if you're 215 lbs you've got probably 30lbs (20% more weight) on what they likely designed for). I imagine they base their suspension rates off an avg. 180lb rider if not lighter. So you're changing up the dynamic of your ride quite a bit.

If nothings stopping you though you're going to find it easier to remove the shock and use ratchet straps or something to compress it. It's going to take you more time than it would otherwise if it's still mounted to the bike. While you've got the shock off you should read up on and old post regrading a rear shock quick removal mod and do it if you're going to experiment and be swapping out for a few dif. spring rates.

ddipaola said:

If nothings stopping you though you're going to find it easier to remove the shock and use ratchet straps or something to compress it. It's going to take you more time than it would otherwise if it's still mounted to the bike. While you've got the shock off you should read up on and old post regrading a rear shock quick removal mod and do it if you're going to experiment and be swapping out for a few dif. spring rates.

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Dont use ratchet straps, doing that is a disaster waiting to happen. You are putting a lot of potential energy on a shock spring to remove the clip. That amount potential energy can put the spring through a wall or take off a finger and/or cause very serious injuries. Use the proper tools or take it to someone who can swap it for you, IF you need a spring. A swap is about 15-20 bucks.

16krtzx10r - Why are you looking at a stiffer spring if it feels harsh? Do you think the shock is bottoming and thats why if feels harsh? There isnt enough information provided to give you a proper response as to changing spring rate.

evallarta1 said:

Dont use ratchet straps, doing that is a disaster waiting to happen.

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If you get the right straps you should be good I'd think (like some head duty 2" tow straps with the proper release tab/lever). If you're using some Walmart brand strap with a simple 2 finger thumb release and a 4" handle consider it a set-beartrap when you go to release it :lol: There's a guy near me though that does an entire suspension service for $100, so I can't imagine anymore than $25-50 for a simple spring removal at the end of the day.

Seriously this guy does all this for $100: Disassembly, Cleaning, Oil Change, Nitrogen Recharge, Spring Install.
It's a no brainier to almost have someone do the whole thing for ya with those types of prices.