Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Bled the brakes, took them off to make sure the piston was working and still nothing. Don't know what else to check. It used to be stretched and they swapped the stretch back to the oem swing arm. Said he put the original brake line back on and they needed bled, but it didn't fix the issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I dont think so, the piston inside the caliper still has pressure when the brake is applied with the caliper off. I'll check it tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I have a 2011 and I agree they dont do much. I did test one day to try to get the rear tire to skid a little or to engage the traction control and all I remember is applying an awful a lot of pressure with my feet to get it to do something. I rarely use them unless I have to brake hard, then I apply the both. Still with original rubber lines. Stainless coming soon thou.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
13,619 Posts
What is the actual issue here? The rear brake won't apply at all and the rear spins freely? The rear brake won't release after it is applied and keeps the wheel locked up? Or the brake just doesn't "feel" like it stops hard when the bike is moving? Different solutions for different problems here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
What is the actual issue here? The rear brake won't apply at all and the rear spins freely? The rear brake won't release after it is applied and keeps the wheel locked up? Or the brake just doesn't "feel" like it stops hard when the bike is moving? Different solutions for different problems here.
It wont even stop the bike at a slow roll. I feel a little bit of drag but not much. I was rolling at 10mph and it barely slowed at all.
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
Joined
·
13,619 Posts
OK, so the next question is, hard hard were you pressing the pedal? What brake pads are you using?

By design, the rear brakes don't provide much stopping power. You have to press the pedal to the mechanical stop to get a decent amount of force. But that's all you'll ever really get. The rear brakes are typically overused by riders and cause crashes whcih is why the manufacturer makes it hard to lock up. So, unless you're standing on the rear pedal don't expect much out of them. Since the front brakes can put the rear wheel in the air with a hard 2-finger squeeze, the rear brakes are pretty useless anyway.

If you put the bike on the rear stand and spin the rear wheel by hand and stop it by pressing the brake pedal down with your other hand, then I'd say they are working correctly and your expectations are a bit too high for them. If you can still spin the wheel by hand with the pedal depressed though, then there's likely air in the system, the pads should be replaced, or the master cylinder and caliper should be serviced. In your example, if you were standing on the pedal at 10mph and you only felt some drag on it, then pads, fluid, and a rebleed would be the first step.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
620 Posts
Take if from a guy who's high sided on an older bike with a strong rear brake. You don't want a strong rear brake. I once locked up the rear brake on my R6 entering a turn at speed and the back end swung out pretty wide. I instinctively let go of the brake, the tire hooked up and bike catapulted me into the best Superman impression I've ever done (intentional or otherwise). That was back in my rookie riding years. Since then I only use the rear brake when holding myself at a red light.
 

·
The Pace
Joined
·
6,931 Posts
just checking the new lay out here, sorry! All I can say is that I rarely use the rear, but with each emergency rear application, that brake worked perfectly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,763 Posts
had same problem, bleed the rear, did everything and felt spongy, had to change the rear sensor, and got a almost new caliper, sensor and line, and problem solved...
 

·
The Pace
Joined
·
6,931 Posts
Have more time now to share. On the g4, went to almost 100,000 miles, 2013, with no, as in ZERO bleeding of brake fluid BUT did often have to change out a front brake pad and once had dealer do it has already in shop; I often NEVER changed both, just the most worn. Dealer never asked to change brake fluid. Original rear pads still on the bike.

OK, now this bike has now been in the shop for over 15 months, yes FIFTEEN months, on two valve failures and now another problem that was created from the last valve work that resulted in a slow oil leak THAT now the dealer is trying to sort as tech coming up with low oil pressure; replaced pump, same problem.

All warranty.

My point is that our super bike, like all the others, simply do not need pampering. The only weakness I've noted with two g4's, 2011 and 2013 are valves are weak. The '11 also had low quality fork seals; NOT the '13.

Bitter end:


the above site missed the main point of 'bitter end.' If the sailor FAILED to tie off the anchor rope, it went into the deep; hence, 'bitter end' as he watches gear sink to the bottom and a Captain to answer.

Edit: 12.14.19. My point about 'bitter end' anchor whatever is not a complaint against our Kawa Corp, as they have excellent products; simply about patience getting stuff done. I'm not use to EVER using warranties on anything, until the g4's; two, '11 and the '13. The '11 did NOT have extended warranty and it lasted to 50k miles; Both I love and loved; yet kinda hate as I ride at least 25k-30k miles per year, and that figure is bad weather years of West Coast California just South of San Francisco. Last year, 17k miles with a slight oil leak that -THAT bike handled PERFECTLY. Oil on the rear and the Met/RS Bridgestone tires made it work.

Solid bike. Yet, for first time, I guess due to so little riding for me, I am always dreaming of the bike.

Life is interesting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,763 Posts
My bike has pressure now on the rear brakes but it does nor stop at all. It's just a power control not for braking at all


Enviado desde mi SNE-LX3 mediante Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,690 Posts
To verify you're fully bled properly with no air in the lines, disconnect the rear mc from the bike and hang it straight above the caliper, let all the possible air inside to rise up and out of the line.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top