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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone, New to forum. Hope someone can help with a solution.

Situation: Took bike in to dealer and had tires replaced. After change, I first noticed rear brake was gone so pumped it up. Got home and put on stand. Noticed rear tire rolls free half way around, then can hear rear brake rub for the other half. Pushed in brake, started bike on stand and tire rolls free all around. Pumped rear brake again, but same result - rolls free half way around, then can hear rear brake rub for the other half.

Can someone help a newb troubleshoot and solve this issue? Is this a safety concern?

Thanks,
DGF.
2013 ZX10R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is my thought as well. I was just hoping it was something else. This probably explains why my rear brake was completely decompressed when I got on it.
 

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This is my thought as well. I was just hoping it was something else. This probably explains why my rear brake was completely decompressed when I got on it.
As far as the caliper pucks being reset, that's normal, they just didn't pump the brake until they were up against the rotor after putting the wheel back on. That's bad for a dealer to do that though, customer might ride off and try to use their rear brake and they're not going to have anything. I've done that myself once or twice. It's also somewhat normal for there to be a slight warp, which could explain your issue. There is a tolerance limit for the warp and believe it or not, if the bike is covered under warranty still a rotor that is warped beyond tolerances is actually covered by the warranty. I had a couple of rotors replaced on a 4 year old ZX6R under warranty for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Boxtradamus,

I checked. I found a pic taken a while ago of the rotor and compared it to today - there are #11 and 45MM stamps visible in both the old pic and now so believe the rotor is facing the right way. It is smooth all the way around with no bolt obstructions. Hope the dealer would not have to remove a rotor just to change the tire.

Without removing the wheel, is there a visual way to see / determine if a Spacer is missing from either the Left or Right side?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ukzx10r and Boxradamus, is there a way to visually see, or inspect, the tire to determine if a Spacer is missing or incorrectly installed? Thanks for all your helps.
 

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Somethings seriously not right here.
Do not ride it whatever you do.
The pic you put up doesnt look like a 2013 bike.
Can you confirm its a 2013 model with a zoomed out pic?
Wheres your traction ring and there is no sensor on the bracket??
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ukzx10r, It was Boxtradamus who uploaded the pic. And, yeah, that pic does not look like a 2013. Ha. I think it was just to represent a disc rotor installed backwards.
 

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First, don't ride it; as not right and therefore not safe; and I don't sweat much at all. Hope you get my meaning here.

What year 10r?

Let us know so riders with your model will chime in.

If you have 2013, g4, I have two, the '11 and your's, the '13.

First, simply ride it back to the dealer, using the front brake only; only brake I use. You'll do find once you get used to front only. (I do use the rear but only in emergencies.)

Spacer on right side you can see but less so than the left side which has the fat spacer. Both spacers, right and left are aluminum in color, meaning light gray. Right side is, again, is smaller in width compared to left side. Bike's right side ad bike's left side.
OK, if the rear brake line is super stretched, tech guy missed the brake tab insertion on the frame placed there for the brake to lock in.

That brake line should have a bit of a S to it if installed onto that tab correctly.

To work on this you'll need the rear stand one that uses the rear sliders.
 

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Ukzx10r, It was Boxtradamus who uploaded the pic. And, yeah, that pic does not look like a 2013. Ha. I think it was just to represent a disc rotor installed backwards.
No tech will touch the disc and very very unlikely that the disc was tweaked in a odd drop. Given this hunch, installer made the problem. Tire guy did the new tire and installer of tire on your bike did the problem, unless very small shop.

One more area of possible problem is the cushions that soften the sprocket. Four of them; unlikely that one is missing;

One more possible problem; a bushing that slips inside the sprocket may be missing. It will fall out if noob tech on 10r is involved.



Ok, so we have the following: missed brake tab insertion; missing cushion and, finally, missing sprocket bushing.

Do not ride the bike unless using front only to return to dealer and call dealer before showing up.

if shop NOT Kawa shop then not Kawa trained so one of the above is the problem; gut feeling is that bushing. Translation: if shop sells kawa, the probably tech is trained.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What year 10r?

If you have 2013, g4, I have two, the '11 and your's, the '13.

First, simply ride it back to the dealer

Spacer on right side you can see but less so than the left side which has the fat spacer. Both spacers, right and left are aluminum in color, meaning light gray. Right side is, again, is smaller in width compared to left side. Bike's right side ad bike's left side.
OK, if the rear brake line is super stretched, tech guy missed the brake tab insertion on the frame placed there for the brake to lock in.

That brake line should have a bit of a S to it if installed onto that tab correctly.

No tech will touch the disc and very very unlikely that the disc was tweaked in a odd drop. Given this hunch, installer made the problem. Tire guy did the new tire and installer of tire on your bike did the problem, unless very small shop.

One more area of possible problem is the cushions that soften the sprocket. Four of them; unlikely that one is missing;

One more possible problem; a bushing that slips inside the sprocket may be missing. It will fall out if noob tech on 10r is involved.

Ok, so we have the following: missed brake tab insertion; missing cushion and, finally, missing sprocket bushing.

if shop NOT Kawa shop then not Kawa trained so one of the above is the problem; gut feeling is that bushing....
Scout,

It's a 2013 ZX10r.

Not taking this back to dealer, I can @#$% it up just as bad myself. Kawa dealer had their chance.

I will pull the tire off and check for the following:
Right Side Collar COLLAR,25X32X13 (Ref # 92152) 92152-0289
Left Sleeve SLEEVE,RR HUB,L=22 (Ref # 42036) 42036-1279
Damper Cushions DAMPER,SHOCK,RR HUB (Ref # 92161) 92161-0342
Left Collar COLLAR,25X40X18.7 (Ref # 92152A) 92152-0867
Rear Brake Caliper Carrier Bracket Seating

If all present and in order, then I will inspect the rotor. I was just hoping it did not have to come to this. "Ain't nobody got time for dat!"

Thanks for the help.
 

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My two cents.

Check to see that your wheel is aligned properly. Get a digital caliper and measure against both of your chain adjusters. Even on both sides? Check your rear brake fluid, maybe too much. Try removing some. All that extra fluid is simply to compensate for brake pad wear. As your pads wear, the master cylinder sucks in more fluid from the reservoir. Too much fluid and your pads rub against the rotor.

If this happened after swapping your rear tire, it is possible they did it by hand, and bent the rotor while trying to break the bead (wheel/rotor laying flat on the ground)
 

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check to make sure the collar/spacer is in place, inside the rear sprocket carrier. sometimes they fall out, and are forgotten, this will definitely cause a wheel to not be centered, and rubbing brake, misaligned chain/sprockets. Ski
 

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Scout,

It's a 2013 ZX10r.

Not taking this back to dealer, I can @#$% it up just as bad myself. Kawa dealer had their chance.

I will pull the tire off and check for the following:
Right Side Collar COLLAR,25X32X13 (Ref # 92152) 92152-0289
Left Sleeve SLEEVE,RR HUB,L=22 (Ref # 42036) 42036-1279
Damper Cushions DAMPER,SHOCK,RR HUB (Ref # 92161) 92161-0342
Left Collar COLLAR,25X40X18.7 (Ref # 92152A) 92152-0867
Rear Brake Caliper Carrier Bracket Seating

If all present and in order, then I will inspect the rotor. I was just hoping it did not have to come to this. "Ain't nobody got time for dat!"

Thanks for the help.
OK, yes to above BUT you left OUT the bushing: this bushing sits inside the sprocket; it falls out easily; how do I know? Because, weather permitting and bike not blown up I change out the met rr m7 rear every 3k miles as steel is showing; 200 mile loop equates to TWO WEEKS plus one day of riding.

I do this all the time.

If that bushing is missing then it's on the dealer and admin at dealer must look at that rear; you paid for pro service and I'm assuming that you ran it into the dealer with rear normal.

Dealers are good but some have probs getting their tech trained by kawa.

go back to dealer but I'd trailer that bike in. Call first to clear with service admin. Again, I'm assuming you're taking about a KAWA dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Question about the Rear Axle Nut on a 2013. In the 2013 NINJA® ZX™-10R PARTS DIAGRAM for the Rear Wheel/Chain it states the nut is a 24mm (NUT,CASTLE,24MM (Ref # 92210A) 92210-0280), but turns out mine is a 32mm nut. Since there is an obvious typo on this, is there also a mistake in the Torque Spec in the Service Manual too? Thanks.
 
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