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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 05 10R and purchased a set of Goodridge SS Carboline for the front and rear. Front I did first and besides breaking one of the aluminum banjo bolts I replaced it and bled all the air out and of course it works great just as expected.

Dumbass me thinking the rear was going to be easy took the old line off, put the new one on. I was a little surprised that the Goodridge line seemed to be 1-2 inches longer than the stock line. Didn't think anything of it really though. Anyway I got everything back together and started bleeding the lines. I got the air out from the bleeding valve and also did the rear banjo bolt which mounts the line to the caliper. Still spongy so of course did the frong banjo bolt on top of the master cylinder. I did these all several times as well as shaking the bike, tilting, tapping the m/c with my hand to try to get any air bubbles to the top. Of course nothing worked and the thing is still spongy as hell. I have to basically push the lever all the way down to get any feel from it. I did a search and it appears that some other people have had this problem.

Just trying to figure out if anyone was ever able to fix this situation and if so how. I'm dying trying to get back and ride the bike since I haven't been able to since breaking the front bolt, etc. Any help would be great. I know there are certain products to buy to help do this but I'm hoping I should be able to get it out with without buying anything...or at least try everything first. My wife helps so it's not like I'm struggling bleeding them.

I appreciate any help. Thanks.
 

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You may need to bleed the MC by pulling the line loose and placing your finger over the hole and pump and release til you get pressure then replace the line and re bleed the system. Make sure you are adding fluid that you are taking out before it bottoms out in the reservoir also.

Tread
 

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It should be a one man job, I have to ask, have you got the washers on both sides of the banjos ?
 

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It should be a one man job, I have to ask, have you got the washers on both sides of the banjos ?

Good question....
 

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Custom Powder Coater
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When u get it right post some pics i got the same lines w/EBC pads just waitng for my black gp-res. for the rear. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I have washers on both sides.

It should have pressure though no? Wouldn't taking the banjo bolt off the top of the m/c and doing what your saying be the same as loosening the bolt while holding the lever down and letting fluid air come out yield the same result?

(I can get picks probably tomorrow...they're already on...just the rear brakes don't work. Also I wasn't too impressed with the fitment at the front m/c although they do work excellent and look great.)
 

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Pump lever 3 times and hold down
crack bleeder loose and then retighten
repeat
It does not take long to move the fluid to the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I've been doing that exact thing. Did it with all the fittings. I will try when I get home from work later today taking the top banjo bolt off and doing it that way.
 

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How big is the curve at the top of the hose?

Maybe the bubbles are constantly returning to the top depending on the rate at which you are pumping them.

Is it possible to straighten the hose by having the caliper hanging somewhere with something between the pads (to stop pistons from popping out), just to see if any possible air comes out?

Just a theory of course...
 

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my advice at this point is crack the banjo @ the caliper and let it seep out a bit then tighten enough to repeat the bleed procedure and i'll bet it comes around quick.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've done that a few times BD. I figured that's what would happen (like the front the air gets caught up there) but it didn't help even after doing both banjo bolts like that as well as the bleed valve.

When I get home today I am going to try to straighten the curve out in the hose since it's fairly a big one IMO and then try to rebleed and see what happens...I guess it's possible it could be up there. I don't know what else to try.
 

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mmmmmmmm ok try this.

A super clean container like a plastic bottle with pointed end, pump can with lever and nozzle capable of attaching a short hose or rubber line to and squeeze, pump fluid in via the bleed nipple in the caliper once cracked open. It won't take much obviously but it'll be enough to semi fill the line in order to get the bleed process started.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm wondering if somehow air is trapped in the caliper and maybe I have to try with the bike tilted more to the left to get the air bubble out...or put the bike on the rearstand only so any air trapped would tend to float to the rear of the caliper where the bleeding valve is.
 

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You maybe having a little spring back from the piston seals in the caliper, you can bleed the caliper off the bike , with newish pads you can put a screwdriver blade between the pads where the rotor should be and bleed that way without popping the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will be doing it in a bit after I go cut grass.

I'll let all know how it turns out...I plan on trying anything and everything to get it fixed.

We'll see how it turns out.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Messed with it a lot more today. Tried getting the line to level out and leaning the bike way over. Also tried lifting the front of the bike and other sorts of stuff. I bled the lines from every spot possible as well as tried adjusting the brake pedal.

Seems like it's got better but still feels like there may be some air in there. I also knocked the damn brake light switch spring off so I have to put that back on and also realized my chain is too loose so have to tighten that up.

Now the front clutch cable keeps popping the little plastic clip thing that holds the cable close to the right fork because it rubs against the brake lines or something. Now it seems like I'll have to take the front lines back off the caliper and try to reroute them somehow.

What a damn pain in the ass!!!
 
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