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Discussion Starter #1
This weekend I helped a buddy install a new set of sprockets and chain on his '06 10R. First off, why in the hell do they torque the front sprocket on so tight? Yes, I know the unbelievable torque going thru the small shaft but there isn’t that much lateral influence on it. My Ducati slides on and is held in place with two small bolts?

Anyway, we finally got it off and slide the new ones on. I am a torque spec nazi, so I torque the rear axle to 80 ft lbs just like the service manual says. Of course I turn the wheel to check out the rotation and it is frozen solid! Obviously 80 ft lbs is too much. I knew that was not going to work, so after a beer and some head scratching we ended up just hand tightening (with a wrench) till the axle felt snug and there was no play in the rear wheel like other bikes we have done in the past. The wheel turns freely but has a very slight amount of resistance and installed a new cotter pin. Right or wrong?

Also we went -1 Front and +1 in back with Vortex sprockets and Regina 520 chain. On test ride it seemed to have more “whining” noise from the front sprocket area on deceleration (off the gas and coasting). Not bad, just more than the stock setup. Anyone else hear this? I assume it's normal from the smaller sprocket. Alignment was checked and adjusted till it was dead center and chain slack is perfect according to the svc manual. Defiantly improved the bottom end performance. Thanks for any info! Ride Safe.
 

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80ft-lbs is not too much and i'd venture to guess something is amiss if the wheel would not turn by hand.
Based upon my 10 and many other bikes the recommended tq spec is always been cool so dbl check everything in the rear wheel assem.

BD
 

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The inner spacer on the rear wheel , between the two bearings should determine the preload , if it is missing then you have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's what I thought too. I had my 10R there and compared them. The spacers were correct. The wheel bearings were untouched during the sprocket swap. It was a good snug fit sliding the wheel assembly back in place like it should be but after 80 ft lbs the compression on the wheel bearings was too much? Thanks.
 

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That's what I thought too. I had my 10R there and compared them. The spacers were correct. It was a good snug fit sliding the wheel assembly back in place like it should be but after 80 ft lbs the compression on the wheel bearings was too much? Thanks.
FAF is speaking of the inner spacer inside the wheel between the 2 bearings not an outer spacer.

BD
 

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There is a spacer that goes inside the cush drive. (Might be the one FAF and BD are referencing). Don't see that one laying around on the floor anywhere?

People mistakenly leave this one out all the time.

JJ
 

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correct, however the one JJ is referencing could also be the one.

BD
You can only miss the one inside the cush drive if you actually pull the cush drive out of the wheel. Maybe it was NEVER in there before and some left it out from previous maintenance.

I know all about this since I had my wheels off over the weekend painting them.

But this is a common design on many bikes. I have seen them left out before. It causes the problem you describe. So even if you didnt pull out the cush drive this weekend, you might want to remove the wheel again and check behind it and make sure its there because what you are describing shoul NOT be happening.

JJ
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok. Makes sense. He did have some new tires installed while it was apart, so someone did have the sprocket off at some point. We will pull it off and check. Thanks guys!
 

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You can only miss the one inside the cush drive if you actually pull the cush drive out of the wheel. Maybe it was NEVER in there before and some left it out from previous maintenance.

I know all about this since I had my wheels off over the weekend painting them.

But this is a common design on many bikes. I have seen them left out before. It causes the problem you describe. So even if you didnt pull out the cush drive this weekend, you might want to remove the wheel again and check behind it and make sure its there because what you are describing shoul NOT be happening.

JJ
correct!!

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok. No luck, same shit. I got home, pulled up the svc manual page 10-8 thru 10-9, pulled the wheel off and everything is there, in order. I set the torque wrench (calibrated Snap On) to 80 ft lbs and tightened it up. I can turn the wheel with one hand but it is too tight, that I know. The wheel sits snug between the swingarm with the spacers in place. Theres not any slack like something is missing, but when I torque it down the castle nut is threaded far enough down the axle shaft theat the cotter pin barely even engages the top of the nut. Any ideas?
 

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Theres not any slack like something is missing, but when I torque it down the castle nut is threaded far enough down the axle shaft that the cotter pin barely even engages the top of the nut. Any ideas?
WOW this should not be :headshake the castle nut should not be threaded down that far so naturally it screams something is missing but as you say nothing is.

When you handled the wheel did the long spacer inside the wheel hub move/rattle around or did you attempt to move it with something???
Were the 2 outer collars/spacers inserted on their respective sides as 1 has a flange and 1 does not??? Was the axle inserted through the brake side??[edited}

I don't mean to imply you've done wrong but simply dbl checking these items.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Whoa! WE found it! I'd finally had enough so I brought my bike over and tore it down side by side for a comparo. First, there is a loose (easily removed) part in hub that is not reflected in the svc manual. If you look on page 10-9, the top pic shows the drive cushion pulled out. Right at the end of arrow C in the axle hole is a flanged spacer. Maybe you or JJ were rfering to this, but its hard to describe and understand without hands on! This slides out easily (on mine). His is missing. He said he pulled his sprocket out at the dealer when he had his tires put on. Our guess is it fell out there, as this was the first time it has been off. Yes, the castle nut threading down so far was a give away something was up. Anyway, lesson learned. Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Yes the flanged spacer inside the cush drive was exactly what JJ was refering too :thumbsup: sounds as though it was lost during tire mounting as it can easily slip out while handling/removing the cush drive.

Best of all you've found out before further damage. :eek:ccasion1

BD
 

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You guys are awesome, thats what I like about this site. Someones always knows how to fix whatever problem and willing to help out until it is fixed.
 
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