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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched the forum and found little useful, but seems like there are some fast guys here so:
Attached is a photo of the rear tire with rotation indicated.
The trailing edge of wear hole (when rotated to top) is torn severely rearward. The side holes are torn almost 90 to the outside (slightly rearward when rotated to top)

Other:
Dunlop 200/55 Med+.
24psi hot off track, and slightly lower off warmer.
I cut the rubber balls from the tire edge for balancing.
Disregard the smooth area in center, rode to work so I could change oil and filter warm.
Gen 4, stock suspension.

The tear toward rear I thought was rebound too slow, so I sped it up and she got worse.
1- Is this correct logic?
2-What is ideal for the side hole comet tail to point, and what setting affects it?

-Dork
 

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Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
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Personally, I think you've got too much tire movement via soft suspension. Also, your pressure seems a couple psi higher vs how much load you're putting on the carcass. There aren't any tears.

You want the tire carcass to flex in tandem with the suspension. Right now I'd say your tire isn't flexing enough and the suspension is moving to much. Pressures and settings will make this better, but you might be at the limit of the stock shock right now.

Also, the Dunlop slicks is on the harder side of all the tire manufacturers' carcass flex. You might do better with a Dunlop Q4 or something if that's your chosen brand. Competition tires need load and right now, it's not getting enough.
 

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Be careful with the Q4s. Mine only lasted a single day at Thunderhill. They are soft carcass and soft compound and the big bikes eat em up. I prefer the stiffer Dunlop. (I run an ohlins shock on my 10RR)

This is a Continental slick. It currently has 4 track days on it. I run 23r/33f hot.
 

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Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
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Looks good. If it was me, I'd add a pound to see it would get the wear holes to quit the comet trails.
 

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Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
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And the Q4 is fine if your pace matches it. That's all I meant by that. With his soft suspension, a softer tire will work better.
 

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Where the hell do you even get these?
Special Industry Insider contacts :) .

I think they are popular in the EU, but there aren't any race suppliers in the US that I am aware of.

Search my Post for Continental Slicks demo
 

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The last picture of green weanies tire is how you want it to look. Like beach sand when the water has receded. No tears and no major lips in front of the wear indicator holes or trailing them. Also the picture should be taken at the track hot off your session. Straight on pictures do not show the best shadows. Slight angled pictures that show the shadows of the topography of the tire are best. Your tire looks pretty good. It looks like you are not too aggressive with the throttle. I would like to see the front to give me an indication of total lean angle. I tend to tune more for best feel and traction than prefect tire wear. Your tire is fine.
 

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This is my front after Buttonwillow. Im not sure how to read this one...data suggests that it is too much weight on the front ..?! Maybe?

Buttonwillow has a high speed 120mph plus sweeper, entering it at over 160mph...and carrying speed to the exit....pretty sure where this is happening.
At 160+ in order to get the bike to turn, I have to roll off slightly or gently add some brake.... pretty sure thats causing the front to plow.

Suggestions on where to look? The front suspension is stock... :(

D
 

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Make sure your tire pressure is not too low first. Pretty sure you checked that but......the tire looks like it is working very hard. I would add a couple pounds and check it after a session. That's what I mean by......if the bike feels good, the tire wear is second to the way it is wearing. If your forks are lowered in the triple, you could raise them 5mm and see if you can change the attitude a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
GreenWeenie, I would've been at buttonwillow today too, just wanted to sort this shock thing first.

For TheProphet: The first pic is the front left side, it won't help much bc most was scrubbed off on the oil change ride.
The second is the more shaggy right front.

Fresh off track pics won't be till big willow on the 25th.

2012 Gen 4. I can live with the front but the rear is crummy I hear...wrong linkage, soft damping and spring.

Considering:
1 - rebuilding it with 5wt oil and/or gold valve b4 25th.
2 - slapping on stock gen 5 shock and linkage
3 - (probably not b4 25th) aftermarket shock. My question is: does an aftermarket gen 4 shock need aftermarket linkage?

If so, I wont feel too bad about buying the Gen 5 kit, and keeping the link plates/dogbone with aftermarket shock of choice.

Otherwise I can poop out some copies of the aftermarket link plates and dogbone, run that in 2 weeks on stock shock, then pick out a Penske or Ohlins.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Prophet:
If you look at the first pics of rear I was mostly asking what adjustments I could try to get rid of the huge tearing of wear holes.
I heard two conflicting things about upping and lowering tire pressure, which what the hell I'll try, but thought rebound would affect it. Tire was untouchably hot, so I figured i was in the ballpark.
Basically I had rebound run all the way in and cracked open, tearing of wear hole was significant, then I backed it out more, and got worse. Led me to believe I was at the limit of stock adjustment. If that was the case I was keen to try something to salvage the stocker...otherwise door stop.
Thanks for contributing, you seem to know your stuff.
 

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This is my front after Buttonwillow. Im not sure how to read this one...data suggests that it is too much weight on the front ..?! Maybe?

Buttonwillow has a high speed 120mph plus sweeper, entering it at over 160mph...and carrying speed to the exit....pretty sure where this is happening.
At 160+ in order to get the bike to turn, I have to roll off slightly or gently add some brake.... pretty sure thats causing the front to plow.

Suggestions on where to look? The front suspension is stock... :(

D
Similar to what The Prophet said, the tire is getting worked too hard. Either pressure or suspension setting/geometry. For reference, at buttonwillow I run 36 psi hot on a pirelli sc2 front.
 

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3 - (probably not b4 25th) aftermarket shock. My question is: does an aftermarket gen 4 shock need aftermarket linkage?
You asked similar question in other thread, here is what I know:

a) Gen4 link ratio is arround 2.3, gen5 is where most sport bikes are 2.1. Ohlins for gen4 ships with 110 spring and Ohlins for gen5 with 95 spring. Gen5 has more shaft movement and valving is different too. Gen4 link could theoretically be as good with 10-12% more spring and more shim stack, but in practice people report gen5 setup (MSS, Attach) working better, can confirm this myself.

b) If you get aftermarket shock what is not revalved and has spring arround 110 N/mm, then it is designed for gen4 link and should work ok with gen4 link. Going with gen5 link and aftermarket unchanged shock (for gen4), it should work ok too when using correct spring (minus 10 compared to gen4).

c) My experience with gen4 and Ohlins was: myself 85kg naked, fast pace with slicks, used gen4 Ohlins as it ships from Ohlins, tried 110, 115 and 120 spring and had very often some tearing happening (thinking maybe its normal). Did not try to fix this with different valving. Then upgraded to gen5 link together with valving recommendation from LDH and lighter spring (100, 105). Boom, now tire wear changed to prefect and tearing rarely happens (bad weather). Great return of investment if you need 20 rear tires instead 26 per season.
 

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First, it is IMPOSSIBLE to diagnose tire wear from a picture. There are so many variables that must be evaluated before any change can be made. Otherwise everything everyone is telling you is a guess. These guesses will have you chasing your tail trying to figure out a solution.

Whats your suspension settings? Preload, rate, oil level, compression, rebound?
Rake, trail, swingarm angle?
Track temps? Weather? Pace? etc.

Once you look at all the variables your can make an assessment of whats going on where to go.

Here's what a few spec sheets look like to help keep you on track.



 

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c) My experience with gen4 and Ohlins was: myself 85kg naked, fast pace with slicks, used gen4 Ohlins as it ships from Ohlins, tried 110, 115 and 120 spring and had very often some tearing happening (thinking maybe its normal). Did not try to fix this with different valving. Then upgraded to gen5 link together with valving recommendation from LDH and lighter spring (100, 105). Boom, now tire wear changed to prefect and tearing rarely happens (bad weather). Great return of investment if you need 20 rear tires instead 26 per season.

I do not remember if we used the C36 or C37 Valve spec. Do you recall?
 
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