[Vonstallin]

Well I wrote a report about my 08 race bike having issues one being over heating. I was wondering do they make a race thermostat for the gen 2 or gen 3 zx10R?

I would assume its one that opens at a earlier time period 136-144 degrees is the current setting. Some racers told me that they dont run thermostats at all. My dad told me thats a bad idea, but i cant remember why. This is for race bike only.

I run water with water wetter in my bike, have 3200 miles on it and surprised that the thermostat would go out this early.

I plan on getting a new therm, but if they make a race or heavy duty one id opt for that. THis almost made me quit durring a 6 hour race so i dont want that happening again.

 

[Vonstallin]

On any one hear of a thermostate removal kit ???

matter of fact where/how do you get kawi race parts from?

Catalog?

 

[spikespiegel]

correct me if i'm wrong, but is the thermostat only good for when the rad fan kicks in?

I've ripped out my radiator, and all emissions on my race 10R. The temperatures BARELy see over 160 on a 80-90F day, only time it gets up high is when i'm rolling into the pits on a hot day 100F+ . Hope this info helps you.

 

[Rspec99]

correct me if i'm wrong, but is the thermostat only good for when the rad fan kicks in?

I've ripped out my radiator, and all emissions on my race 10R. The temperatures BARELy see over 160 on a 80-90F day, only time it gets up high is when i'm rolling into the pits on a hot day 100F+ . Hope this info helps you.

The stock thermostat opens very early at around 60 deg C (about 140 deg F). It's really not going to make much of a difference not having one or going with a race one. In some applications (especially cars) the thermostat is set to open at much higher temperatures for emissions purposes. If you switch to a lower temp thermostat the engine may run cooler which gives you a little more thermal headroom.

You might want to try a higher pressure radiator cap as that will help a little. The fan doesn't come on until about 95 deg C (200F).

I am very surprised to hear about overheating problems as the Gen 3 cooling system is overkill as far as stock bikes go. I'd check out to see if the thermostat is working properly, and also thewater pump and if that's ok. Maybe try wiring the fan to be on all the time. With my fan manually switched on, and with distilled water and waterwetter, my engine temps never went over 100C (210F) this year, even with ambient being over 100F this year.

 

[mityaz]

thermostat opens up once the engine temp reaches a certain level. before that level, the thermostat is closed, keeping the warm antifreeze in the engine only.

i really dont see a problem with taking the thermostat out comletely. i took mine out on a 01 6R and it ran great for two seasons untill i sold it

 

[TheOriginalNinjaJew]

if you have no thermostat, your bike wont warm up nearly as quickly and will be using more fuel during the warm(30% is standard figure but whatever, 30mpg on the road and 12 on track, who cares) but from a safety standpoint(for your motor not you) unless your living in some seriously cold area where the coolant water can be on the verge of freezing(water wetter or no) i cant imagine a problem.

i do however agree with your dad, why remove it.

 

[Quig]

Overheating Gen 3? Weird.

I race an '08 10 at Willow Springs, it's HOT out there quite often. In July it was 117 degrees... No overheating problems whatsoever. :dontknow:

I'd guess you have a problem... you sure you got all the air out of the cooling system when switching to water wetter?

 

[Patrick]

Sounds like you have air in your system. I'd try a thorough flush and refill first.

Maybe try wiring the fan to be on all the time. With my fan manually switched on, and with distilled water and waterwetter, my engine temps never went over 100C (210F) this year, even with ambient being over 100F this year.

In some applications (I don't know if the gen 3 zx10 is one of them) having the fan on at high speeds (IE a race track) actually forces less air through the radiator therefor not cooling optimally.

 

[Vonstallin]

I switched the bike over in 2008, Ive done alot of wera races and track days and this problem only came up durring the 6 hour endurance race. it ran fine up to the 4.5 hour mark. We had a few red flags so had to pit in. but other than that ive never had an issue.

Im pretty sure its the thermostat.

I ended up making a thread on the wera board since its for my race bike and run water. (more simular bikes).

 

[gremlin8]

Use a stock thermostat, and drill a 1/8" (.125) bypass hole in the lip. this will help bleed out air (Probably your problem), and allow water to flow in the event your t/stat closes. It will help w/warm up, and allow you to run a t/stat so that you dont burn thru fuel before reaching operating temp.

 

[gremlin8]

Another race tweak, make a washer the size of your t/stat, and experiment with the hole size (usually 1/3 rd).this will allow proper restriction for warm up, and allow easier bleeding of the cooling system:thumbsup: