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Discussion Starter #1
Hi people, having real troubles figuring out race shift setup on this bike. I’ve picked up a gen 5 that currently has R&G rearsets in road trim and I want race shift.

Usually I would simply flip the arm on the rearsets but it looks like this is impossible due to the rod and sensor not having any clearance against the frame.

Is there a simple solution or a part I can buy to make this possible?

I have the race ECU but in the manual I also can’t see anywhere I can change the push pull sensor, so I’m thinking that rules out flipping the linkage at the shaft end (not that it would work anyway due to the frame clearance issue).

Can anyone help???
 

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There's several ways to do it. You can use a Gen 3 shift arm and adapt it to the quickshift sensor, but that requires reflashing the ECU to reverse the direction of the sensor. It can be done in the Woolich software and with the FTEcu software for additional cost. Not quite sure about the race ECU software, but I'm sure it's also capable.

The quickest and easiest way to do it is with a bellcrank adapter. That keeps the sensor orientation stock and all the linkages the same. The problems here are that it is a bolt-on part to the stock rearsets and is not exactly cheap. Worth it though.

https://www.bikesportdevelopments.co.uk/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=KT114&CartID=1
 

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Thanks for the info. No, not cheap, but having spent a lot more time looking at it I can see how it’s the logical method. For the money though, it sort of makes more sense to buy another set of rear sets..

It looks like Vortex and Driven are the best race shift options. Any opinions on these?
 

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Thanks for the info. No, not cheap, but having spent a lot more time looking at it I can see how it’s the logical method. For the money though, it sort of makes more sense to buy another set of rear sets..

It looks like Vortex and Driven are the best race shift options. Any opinions on these?


Both are good quality. The Vortex is more popular which means parts are typically more available.

Going aftermarket like that will give you more options. Again, going to a GP shift pattern is relatively straight forward and the easy part. It's keeping the quick shift sensor integrated that's the problem. Especially if you want to add auto-blip in the future. Reversing the shift arm won't allow the sensor to be retained without hitting the frame.


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What about using one of the aftermarket pieces to flip the direction? They look designed to position the shift arm further out and away from the frame and would give the sensor space. Like the attached Bonamici rearset piece in the diagram.
You can flip the gear-change lever (circled in your picture) but you won't be able to use the OEM quick shifter. I think you'll have to use the Woolich race tools or some type of aftermarket shifter to use GP shift. I can check tonight and see if the Bonamici gear lever is any different than the OEM one... I think it does bring the shift rod further away from the the frame as you said.
 

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What about using one of the aftermarket pieces to flip the direction? They look designed to position the shift arm further out and away from the frame and would give the sensor space. Like the attached Bonamici rearset piece in the diagram.

That piece looks identical to the Gen 3 shift arm. While it looks like it will space out the sensor, its really doesn't. The frame is angled out in that area and the sensor will get pinched between the shift pedal and the frame. At least when I tried to use the Gen 3 arm, I couldn't make it work reasonably. What ddipaola mentioned above would also be required with the reflash to reverse the sensor. He's offered to verify it, so let's wait for his feedback on it for sure.



It looks like the Vortex rearsets have adopted the bellcrank now on their newer version. Thaat would be the way to go. Unless you can find an aftermarket QS sensor, I'm not sure there's many options with just fliping the shift arm like in the past.
 

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what would stop you from flipping the quick shift sensor around? so that it would still work in go shift? otherwise the vortex 2.0 aftermarket rear sets work great, they come with a little piece that allows you to change from normal to go/race shit style without having to do anything with the ECU. also if your bike is abs they work }with the OEM lines no need to order longer lines. just no bracket or anything to hook up the brake light switch but if on track that isn't a problem. I have the little piece that vortex rear sets come with to convert to go shift, doubt it would work with other rear sets though. the vortex set has 2 holes on the shift side to mount the bracket that the pivot deal rocks on. And looking at my quick shift sensor, it's make thread on both sides so it shouldn't be an issue to reverse it I wouldn't think but haven't tried, guess the wire would be the issue
 

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Sorry, late to the party, I just picked up a gen 5 and would like to go gp shift, I know you can do it through race tools, can you do it with the regular woolich software or does the race tools come with hardware too?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone. With the oem shift knuckle you can’t flip it, due to the zero offset and also the length which causes contact with the sprocket cover. So I bought an aftermarket one that is shorter and brings the shift rod away from the frame. Reversed the sensor in the race ecu and away we go. I even picked up some crisper shifting with the shorter part which reduces the throw.
 

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Thanks everyone. With the oem shift knuckle you can’t flip it, due to the zero offset and also the length which causes contact with the sprocket cover. So I bought an aftermarket one that is shorter and brings the shift rod away from the frame. Reversed the sensor in the race ecu and away we go. I even picked up some crisper shifting with the shorter part which reduces the throw.
So you bought an adaptor or sorts for the stock rearsets? And now you have gp with qs? Does the autoblip work as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have road shift R&G rearsets but they used stock knuckle so no I’m guessing it would be ok with stock ones. I read a couple of threads on here which made it sound like a big deal to change the linkage but it really isn’t once I found the right bit. Just bought an aftermarket one (see photo).

The real issue is the electronics. As suggested in a post about I just reversed the setting and I have full QS and blipper. On standard ECU this would not be possible.
 

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