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First off, I'm a competent mechanic (motorcycle & automotive), and amature fabricator. Second, I don't know jack & shit about nitrous systems and how they're set-up.

I plan on plumbing a 30-40hp dry system for my 06 10R. I do have a PC3USB, and I do plan on doing all the dyno mapping at a shop with experience in doing this sort of thing. My question(s) are more about plumbing.... How do you guys run your plumbing on dry nitrous kits:

Where is an ideal place to put the nozzle in the intake track? How many nozzles do you want to use for a small dry hit (like 30hp or 40hp)?

Would you rather use braided steel lines from the solenoid to the nozzle(s), or is that nylon stuff acceptable?

Last, any preferences on brands for solenoids and nozzle/jet parts?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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I have a muzzy kit. They do all the homework for you.
 

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Its SS line from the bottle to the solenoid to the nozzles. Small solenoid (purge). The nozzles are actually a piece of tubing that has 2 very small holes drilled in it and is mounted in front of the V stacks.
 

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you can take any dry kit and fit it to your bike...give me a call at the shop and i'll go over the stuff with you...it's not hard at all...803.285.8093

dwayne
 

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Dwayne is the man. Give him a call.
 

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the muzzy kit will work on the 06 since they have the same airbox. thats pretty much all thats involved with fitting their kit.

I have a kit for sale to by the way, pm me if intrested.
 

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Okay let me chime in;

I have a MPS dry system. If i recall it was only $300-$360 or something like that and has a NOS brand slinoid(sp) and bottle and stuff. The hose it uses is a thin black plastic type hose. There is no need for anything special as the N02 is flowing really without any restriction when you spray.

"My" kit is hooked as so when the bike is running and the N20 kit toggle is in the "on" position the starter button sprays as long as you hold it down. It will not spray if the toggle is off and once the bike is running it does not allow the starter to keep cranking..........now all that aside. My hose is stuck into the front edge of the ram air intake......the ram air feed the N20 into the system through the filter and the works.

Be aware that with a 30hp jet you will not make 30 hp. I have been running a 30hp jet on my GSXR750 and it made close to 20hp more on the Dyno.

Here is another extra fact that is very nice to know. I had my GSXR750 custom mapped for the airfilter Yoshi EMS fuel manager (PCIII) and Devil exhaust. When i sprayed with the 30 shot.........the ECU and all of its temp sensors and such in the airbox were able to compensate for the small shot and no new map was needed.......It did not even move my air/fuel ratio enough to barely notice. One would of thunk it would of leaned me out a bunch.....but nope. With the dry set i could of prob even ran a 40hp jet with no adjustment or new maps.

Now this said, i plan to again run a 30hp jet on my ZX10; as it takes the worry out of harming your motor by running lean under a full hard load.

My guess is on spray with a 30hp jet you could have close to a 180hp bike on demand!!!!!

The small shot of N20 is a BLAST!! My 750 actually smoked the tire on the dyno in 3rd gear when i hit the N20!!!! AT the 1/4 track it took almost .2 off my 1/4 time also.
 

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Running the nozzle before the filter is not a good idea. Why do you want to filter your nitrous? It will yield less hp and give a softer hit. I run a 30 shot and its not uncontrollable. I used my lap button for activation and added an arming switch.
 

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Speed Freak
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yeah I would run it after the filter, if anythign if your worried about hittign all the cyls equally run 2 nozzles.
 

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If you do it yourself it cost about $210, 110 for the bottle, 55 for the selenoid, 10 for the fogger, 4 for 2 jets (buy them small, if you need more just drill them), and the rest for lines.
I have done plenty of them.
Good luck if you do not plan on getting a custom dyno map for it, it could spell disaster.
 

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I ran it before the filter ....its cold air, not dirty air. The N20 is not filtered out???? Could its velocity be reduced? Yes a little maybe. If it were run after i would be concerned with only one N20 jet spraying. If it were to enter only 2 or 1 TP....it may cause some problems.

I had no problems having it spray right into the airbox aided by the ram air.
 

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i got a dynotune kit off of ebay for like 220 shipped brand new. it works everytime. no probs at all. i have one nozzle that is between my airfilter and stacks. im shootin a 30shot and it hits VERY hard everytime i hit the button..... i was gonna by a muzzy for twice as much but a friend told me about the dyno tune.........
 

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tristan said:
At what rpm do you hit the n2o? and do you have to be wide open to use it? just curious.
I hit the the nitrous in 2nd gear at WOT above 7k rpm.
 

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ahahahhaha, well yea you need to learn when you can spray. Its going to depend on what gear you are in and how fast you are moving.

1st gear anybike.........i prob wouldn't even think about it.

2nd gear (on my 750) i could hit it at full 1/4 drag pace.

3rd gear "seemed" to provide the best increased seat of the past pull to me.

Heck 2nd gear pulls so hard anyhow its hard to tell other than you notice your tac screams up two times as fast. But 3-5 you can really tell, with a 30 shot anyhow.
 

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Kwak42 said:
Has anyone seen a 240 tire kit on the 06 zx10? Please post pictures if so?
Start a new thread for that crap.
 
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