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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just put a fender eliminator kit on my 2016 a few days ago, and I still need to tighten everything down to spec. I do have a copy of the service manual, but I want to make sure I'm looking at the correct part's torque spec. Are the "Flap Mounting Bolts" the correct spec for the fender? Also, when routing the turn signal + tag light wires, I had to remove this metal tray that was mounted directly under the passenger seat. Is this part secured by what they are calling the "ECU Cover Bolts" in the service manual?

Final question, it looks like some of these bolts were originally installed with either red or blue loctite. The service manual says to use non-permanent threadlocker, but should I used red where it looks like they used red from the factory, or would blue on everything be ok?
 

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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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Red Loctite is permanent. Blue Loctite is the temporary type.

Also, you're misreading the torque specs. Those specs would only apply to the OEM fender. Since you've replaced that with aftermarket, those specs don't apply. They can be used as a guide though. And if you'll notice, the specs are in inch-pounds. That's pretty damn light, they aren't crucial parts, so snug them up and you're done. Don't waste your time putting a torque wrench on those. Hand snug, not hand tight. Don't crank them until they won't turn any more, just a snug fit. You'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Red Loctite is permanent. Blue Loctite is the temporary type.

Also, you're misreading the torque specs. Those specs would only apply to the OEM fender. Since you've replaced that with aftermarket, those specs don't apply. They can be used as a guide though. And if you'll notice, the specs are in inch-pounds. That's pretty damn light, they aren't crucial parts, so snug them up and you're done. Don't waste your time putting a torque wrench on those. Hand snug, not hand tight. Don't crank them until they won't turn any more, just a snug fit. You'll be fine.
It looks like the OEM fender was got blue loctite from the factory, and the metal tray under the passenger seat got red loctite. So it should be fine just going over everything with blue when tightening back up?


I have the Yoshimura elim kit, and the instructions say to use the original fender bolts to attach the new bracket back to the subframe, and tighten to spec. 62 in-lb does seem really loose, and I think that's just barely on my wrench's scale, so I guess I'll just forget the wrench but may still do the loctite to make sure nothing vibrates loose over time.
 

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It looks like the OEM fender was got blue loctite from the factory, and the metal tray under the passenger seat got red loctite. So it should be fine just going over everything with blue when tightening back up?


I have the Yoshimura elim kit, and the instructions say to use the original fender bolts to attach the new bracket back to the subframe, and tighten to spec. 62 in-lb does seem really loose, and I think that's just barely on my wrench's scale, so I guess I'll just forget the wrench but may still do the loctite to make sure nothing vibrates loose over time.

The Loctite won't hurt anything. The blue is more than sufficient to handle those bolts. Even the red Loctite isn't really "permanent". Either of them can be broken loose, but the red stuff takes a lot more torque to break than the blue stuff. There really is no reason to be using the red type. Remember also, that once the bolt is removed with Loctite already on it, it would have to be removed from the threads completely and reapplied to reach its full cure strength. You can leave the stuff on there and reinstall the bolts and the Loctite will still provide some anti-loosening strength just not as much. It's overkill to reapply Loctite on Loctite on these bolts. But it won't hurt anything.
 
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