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I'm wanting to try and replace my clutch and maybe use 3 Bartel springs.

1. If I open up the side case, Will I definitely need a new gasket? Also will oil definitely not come out?

2. Any good "How to" video's out there? I can't find a single video that is start to finish with specifically a Gen4. Plenty of suzuki type videos. Does noone change clutch on Gen4?
 

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1. If you are careful with removing the clutch cover, you should be able to re-use the gasket. I've had my cover off probably like 10 times and never had an issue re-using it. Just don't bend the gasket as I don't know if it'd seal well after getting bent.

I've also never had oil come out either and I always have my bike in a wheel chock while changing the clutch. You'd have issues if you some how tipped the bike to the right with the cover off. But if you have the bike on the kickstand or on a rearstand or a chock you will have no problems.



Look at the top picture. Look at the lowest portion exposed with the clutch cover off then look to where the sight glass is for checking the oil level. The sight glass is lower, if you have the bike over filled you might leak out a bit but it shouldn't be an issue. Pic also shows the sequence and the torque specs for when you put the clutch cover back on too :hello: If you look at the bike

I should make a video one of these days but never want to take the time to do one.
 

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1. If you are careful with removing the clutch cover, you should be able to re-use the gasket. I've had my cover off probably like 10 times and never had an issue re-using it. Just don't bend the gasket as I don't know if it'd seal well after getting bent.

I've also never had oil come out either and I always have my bike in a wheel chock while changing the clutch. You'd have issues if you some how tipped the bike to the right with the cover off. But if you have the bike on the kickstand or on a rearstand or a chock you will have no problems.



Look at the top picture. Look at the lowest portion exposed with the clutch cover off then look to where the sight glass is for checking the oil level. The sight glass is lower, if you have the bike over filled you might leak out a bit but it shouldn't be an issue. Pic also shows the sequence and the torque specs for when you put the clutch cover back on too :hello: If you look at the bike

I should make a video one of these days but never want to take the time to do one.
Thanks a bunch. How about in terms of Clutch plates?
Which are preferred and their order? I'm sure once I have it open, it will make sense, but just in case want to make sure. Also, I have full synthetic oil, any reason i should go back to regular or synthetic blend?
 

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When you take the plates out lay them out in the order they come out of the bike. That will help when putting them back in or installing new ones in the correct order. You should soak the new plates in oil for a couple hours before installing.
 

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Thanks a bunch. How about in terms of Clutch plates?
Which are preferred and their order? I'm sure once I have it open, it will make sense, but just in case want to make sure. Also, I have full synthetic oil, any reason i should go back to regular or synthetic blend?
I found it helpful to take the old clutch out and put the new clutch back in the same way. First you'll put in a fiber, then a steel then alternate fiber then steel until you reach pretty much the top of the basket. I've always rotated the last fiber one tooth but you don't have to, that is just to help indicate wear I guess.

I've always beaten on my clutches right after putting them in with synthetic and non synthetic. Just be sure to soak the fibers in oil before installing them. I use the plastic gallon ice cream buckets cut down then put oil in that then just dump the fibers in there for an hour or so and move them around a bit to make sure they get soaked.

Do you have the service manual? It can be a little tricky but the service manual makes a lot more sense once you start ripping into it. If you don't have one, PM your email addy and I can send one over to ya!
 

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Hardest part for me was always figuring out which way those little seat and spring set between the first and 2nd steel plate, I always look at the manual when doing that part. I attached an picture to hopefully show you that part.

Depending where you get the clutch from they might not have different sized blocks like described in the manual. I get my clutches from cycle concepts and just throw them in, don't pay any attention to block sizes or different thickness steels going in any particular direction.
 

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Ditto, I've reused my gasket plenty of times. As far as minimizing oil coming out, just make sure you work on the bike cold and most of the oil will have settled in the pan, I only lose a drop or two when I work on my clutch or gearbox. Brocks has a couple videos going over installing one of their clutch mods on youtube that gives you a pretty comprehensive look at whats involved.
 

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I replaced my clutch discs in my gen4. Pull them out and lay them in order, soak the new discs in oil (i soaked mine for 24hrs), measure the stack height and install them the same way you pulled the old ones out. Set the cable tension so it doesnt drag. Then you are good to go. I'm running motul 300v. There are some good videos on how to change the discs out. Its really simple. Took me 45mins and 20mins was figuring out how to remove the fairings without breaking them lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys. I think I'm just going to order the stock fibers from Ronayers, unless anyone has a better suggestion. I also use Motul 300 full synth also
 

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I couldn't figure out if cycle concepts clutch pack still required those springs?... think i might have left them out. so just to be sure the cycle concepts clutch pack still requires those springs?
Hardest part for me was always figuring out which way those little seat and spring set between the first and 2nd steel plate, I always look at the manual when doing that part. I attached an picture to hopefully show you that part.

Depending where you get the clutch from they might not have different sized blocks like described in the manual. I get my clutches from cycle concepts and just throw them in, don't pay any attention to block sizes or different thickness steels going in any particular direction.
 

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I couldn't figure out if cycle concepts clutch pack still required those springs?... think i might have left them out. so just to be sure the cycle concepts clutch pack still requires those springs?
You should be fine with stock springs. Dewayne sells his clutch kits with or without the springs.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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I couldn't figure out if cycle concepts clutch pack still required those springs?... think i might have left them out. so just to be sure the cycle concepts clutch pack still requires those springs?
I've always put those springs back in when I've used his clutches, but honestly not sure if they are needed. I always put them in because that is what is shown in the manual. I'm sure Dwyane at Cycle Concepts could answer that question for sure though.
 

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thanks for the input i will just give him a call. I gotta tear it back down any way... Thought it would be alright to "man" it out and run his stiffer springs with my track bike. That was a bad idea... After the day was done i dont think i could squeeze with any force in my left hand lol.

I've always put those springs back in when I've used his clutches, but honestly not sure if they are needed. I always put them in because that is what is shown in the manual. I'm sure Dwyane at Cycle Concepts could answer that question for sure though.
 

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I was talking about those 2 rings that go in between the first set of steels. But yes i did run his stiffer clutch springs and man they are stiff haha. thought my fingers were going to fall off

You should be fine with stock springs. Dewayne sells his clutch kits with or without the springs.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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I was talking about those 2 rings that go in between the first set of steels. But yes i did run his stiffer clutch springs and man they are stiff haha. thought my fingers were going to fall off
Oh k i would use the rings with his clutch. His springs are stiff as fk but there good to have to prevent clutch slipage.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

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thanks for the input i will just give him a call. I gotta tear it back down any way... Thought it would be alright to "man" it out and run his stiffer springs with my track bike. That was a bad idea... After the day was done i dont think i could squeeze with any force in my left hand lol.
Lol yea his stiffer springs are pretty nasty but you'll eventually get used to them. I think I only have 3 though and 3 of the brocks HD ones. I rode my buddies gen 4 with stock springs last summer and at first thought something was wrong with his clutch since the clutch lever was sooooooo easy to pull in. :lol:
 

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So I replaced my clutch in my 2012 ZX-10R yesterday. I followed the steps listed above. When I put the clutch housing back together and attched the clutch cable to the actuator. The clutch never once got tight after I adjusted the knob on the handle bar. I also turned the adjustment nuts and nothing happened. Can someone please help me. I installed fiber first, steel, washer, bulged washer, fiber, steel, etc.
 

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So I replaced my clutch in my 2012 ZX-10R yesterday. I followed the steps listed above. When I put the clutch housing back together and attched the clutch cable to the actuator. The clutch never once got tight after I adjusted the knob on the handle bar. I also turned the adjustment nuts and nothing happened. Can someone please help me. I installed fiber first, steel, washer, bulged washer, fiber, steel, etc.
Uh, you need to make sure that you engaged the actuator to the pusher rod correctly. There's a notch in it for the pusher to hook into. If it's just loose, then it's not engaged. You don't need to worry about the cable until you can feel tension on the throw arm to check for engagement on the actuator. Then you hook up the cable after that and adjust it from there.
 

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Uh, you need to make sure that you engaged the actuator to the pusher rod correctly. There's a notch in it for the pusher to hook into. If it's just loose, then it's not engaged. You don't need to worry about the cable until you can feel tension on the throw arm to check for engagement on the actuator. Then you hook up the cable after that and adjust it from there.
Uh, you need to make sure that you engaged the actuator to the pusher rod correctly. There's a notch in it for the pusher to hook into. If it's just loose, then it's not engaged. You don't need to worry about the cable until you can feel tension on the throw arm to check for engagement on the actuator. Then you hook up the cable after that and adjust it from there.
I removed the actuator completely. Once it was removed, I placed the actuator back into casing slowly. I rotated the actuator until it grabbed the push rod. The tension did not stay once I let the actuator go to hook up the cable. Once the actuator engages the push rod, will it continue to engage? I'll dick around with it again tomorrow when I'm off work.
 

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I removed the actuator completely. Once it was removed, I placed the actuator back into casing slowly. I rotated the actuator until it grabbed the push rod. The tension did not stay once I let the actuator go to hook up the cable. Once the actuator engages the push rod, will it continue to engage? I'll dick around with it again tomorrow when I'm off work.
It requires tension on the lever to keep it engaged. If you let it spin around, it can become loose again. Hold pressure on it with your hand to get the cable sheath seated in the bracket.
 
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