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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a zx10r from 2007, I hear a noise coming from the engine similar to the whistle of a cucu or type when the shims squeak but do not lose income know what it could be?

Another problem I have sometimes the horn stops playing

Another is that sometimes when I try to get the bike to work, it does not always cost to pick up and reset the manometers
 

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That's very difficult to interpret, I expect your using one of the free online translation services, they are deliberately bad. Its difficult I know but to help you we need better translation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll try to explain by steps

1 - I have a metallic sound like the brake pads from the engine, it looks like a whistle but de motorcycle dont lose power and not lose performance

2- Some time whene i go turn on the engine costs to pick up and reset cluster instruments
 

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2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
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I'll try to explain by steps

1 - I have a metallic sound like the brake pads from the engine, it looks like a whistle but de motorcycle dont lose power and not lose performance

2- Some time whene i go turn on the engine costs to pick up and reset cluster instruments
You should probably just show us a video...
 

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I'll try to explain by steps

1 - I have a metallic sound like the brake pads from the engine, it looks like a whistle but de motorcycle dont lose power and not lose performance

2- Some time whene i go turn on the engine costs to pick up and reset cluster instruments
I'll take a crack at this as I've got a 2nd gen with a hiccup or two that drive me nuts.

1. I'm guessing that this is a cam chain noise. Yeah, I know it isn't a whistle but it is metallic. I just put in a manual tensioner this morning and am trying to figure out how to set it just right. The motor clicks and clacks so damn much that it's really hard to me to tell.

2. This is DEFINITELY an issue on mine, one that I've never found a solution to. Sometimes when starting the bike, it acts like the battery has no juice. It won't start and resets the trip meter. Let go of the starter and immediately hit it again and the bike fires right up. Mine has done this since day 1. I had found a fair bit of information suggesting that this had to do with a faulty stator, (and I go through one roughly every 10k miles) but it doesn't make sense to me. Some people have suggested a bad ground. I can't find one. Since my last stator replacement, I've not had this happen too much yet it's slowly getting more frequent. It's been just over 5k since I installed the replacement.

Anyway, those are my guesses. If the OP is translating from his native language to English, maybe this makes sense. Of course, when he translates this back to his language, there's no telling what it will say. I wish him the best.
 

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I have a Gen 5 2018 ZX10r KRT-ABS. The bike is brand new and at the moment have about 3200 miles. First service was done at 650 miles. I switched to Kawasaki Full Synthetic 10W-40 oil at 2700 miles. However here is my challenge the bike always do this like clik, click metal noise when I start it up like a valve sound it minimize the sound after it warm up and is running but still there I'm planning to take it to the dealer over the weekend just to be sure but do anybody experience a similar problem with their bikes.
 

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I'll take a crack at this as I've got a 2nd gen with a hiccup or two that drive me nuts.

1. I'm guessing that this is a cam chain noise. Yeah, I know it isn't a whistle but it is metallic. I just put in a manual tensioner this morning and am trying to figure out how to set it just right. The motor clicks and clacks so damn much that it's really hard to me to tell.

2. This is DEFINITELY an issue on mine, one that I've never found a solution to. Sometimes when starting the bike, it acts like the battery has no juice. It won't start and resets the trip meter. Let go of the starter and immediately hit it again and the bike fires right up. Mine has done this since day 1. I had found a fair bit of information suggesting that this had to do with a faulty stator, (and I go through one roughly every 10k miles) but it doesn't make sense to me. Some people have suggested a bad ground. I can't find one. Since my last stator replacement, I've not had this happen too much yet it's slowly getting more frequent. It's been just over 5k since I installed the replacement.

Anyway, those are my guesses. If the OP is translating from his native language to English, maybe this makes sense. Of course, when he translates this back to his language, there's no telling what it will say. I wish him the best.
I have experienced all of the same on my 06' too lol.

Let's see,
1. That manual tensioner isn't too bad. Here's pretty much how I got mine set;

Removed the old one, put in the new one and tightened it finger tight. when I say FINGER, I MEAN FINGER!!! You can tighten it enough to wipe a bearing which is why I stress FINGERThen I started the bike and listened for noise. If you can't hear any, loosen the tensioner until you hear noise. Once you hear noise, tighten it again FINGER tight until the noise goes away. Once it goes away, loosen it again so you get a feel for the number of turns until you have noise. I tightened mine about half a turn past the point where there was no noise. Then tightened down the lock nut and called it a day.

2.The starting issue is weird. I've replaced the stator on mine and multiple batteries ha. I think this issue is caused by one of two things, bad starter relay or weak/crappy battery. Awhile back I replaced both on my bike at the same time(battery and starter relay) and for a wwhile the bike would start everytime with no cluster resetting or anything, well now a few years later and it starts doing it again, I believe it's due to using a Battery from "Battery Source" which I thought were good batteries. But I am going to see what happens when I drop in a better battery.

Whew that's kinda long but hope it helps.
 

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The gauge cluster resetting when it fails to start can be caused by the Regulator/Rectifier. I had the same issue with my Gen 2. replaced it and the battery and all was good.
 

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The gauge cluster resetting when it fails to start can be caused by the Regulator/Rectifier. I had the same issue with my Gen 2. replaced it and the battery and all was good.

Which brand rectifier did you go with? That's the only piece to the puzzle I haven't replaced yet lol.

I replaced my stator when it went out but my rectifier wasn't showing as dead or weak when I initially tested. Interesting that you replaced both and have no starting issues whatsoever.
 
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