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I just finished installing my 2 line stainless front goodridge lines along with the stainless rear line...
The back went on fine and bled easy...

Now to the front,The stock lines have one line to the right from the mc then a line branches off to the left...
I figured since the kit i bought came with the two almost identical lines...I figured they installed just like most two line kits...both lines run to the mc then each run down to the calipers on both sides...

What is the proper way???

Also,I have them installed and I cannot get the lines bled...no air bubbles but the lever is still soft...am I doing something wrong??
I have installed these or similar ones on every sportbike I have ever owned and this is the first time I have had this many problems with a moderately simple install...

Any suggestions are appeciated.
Thanks
Russ
 

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Russ if you have the banjo bolts tightened on the calipers i would suggest cracking them loose (have paper towel or rag handy)to let the fluid naturally flow down and when it begins to leak out tighten it back up and then attempt to bleed again.

BD
 

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I have never been a fan of hopping the line from one caliper to the next so I went with two seperate lines. When running linked braking lines such as this the pressure is not the same from one caliper to the next. Especially on the 10 because it has a -4 line from the mc to the right side and then a -3 line from the right over to the left. by running this smaller line from right to left the volume goes down but the pressure goes up on the left. Granted it probably does not hurt anything but if you are going to change them why not make them the same. Try cracking the bleeders loose and letting them sit for a little while till they start leaking out the top of the caliper. Attatch a rubber hose on them so when they start to run out the top it goes in a jar or something. Hope this helps.
 

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O yea just change the dual banjo bolt from the right caliper up to the mc and the single banjo from the mc down to the right caliper.
 

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Be patient, set your lever to the longest pull so when you pump the lever you get a longer pump on the brake. I did my Galfer 2 line kit yesterday and had problems bleeding the front too. Just keep workin it.
 

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Often the trouble is that there is a bubble trapped at the top of the brake lines, right at the connection to the master cylinder. If there's no bubbles coming out at the bottom, then this is probably the cause.

Remember that liquid wants to go DOWN by gravity, and air bubbles wants to go UP! The shop-manual-recommended method of bleeding brakes at the bottom is fighting gravity.

To fix: Unbolt the master cylinder from the handlebar, and hold it so that the banjo bolt is tipped down towards the front and also so that the lever end of the master cylinder is angled upward. Now, air bubbles that want to go UP, can go UP through the banjo bolt and UP through the master cylinder and UP through the little hose to the reservoir (and you might have to detach the reservoir from the master cylinder itself to do this last part). To get the air bubbles to go ... wiggle the brake lever, and keep doing it. Sometimes it can take a while.

If air bubbles are really persistent and don't respond to the above treatment, unbolt the brake calipers from the forks and have an assistant push the pistons back while you hold the master cylinder in the above orientation. This *forces* the fluid, with the air bubbles on top, back through the master cylinder. Do this to both calipers, then re-attach them, squeeze and release brake lever a few times and see what happens.

Another thing ... after your first ride, or after the bike does a trip in the trailer, repeat the above process. Vibration from moving tends to work the air bubbles to the high spots.
 

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Crack the banjo bolt as said and if that doesn't work...
1. you need two people for this
2. crack open 1 bleeders on the calipers and place your finger over it while someone pumps the master cylinder....once enough pressure is built up it will force your finger off and then your finger will return to place....this is basically a speedbleeder that you are doing yourself. ***Brake fluid will squirt have the simple green and shop towels ready....do not close bleeder until ready to go to other side but keep the pressure on the bolt with your finger.
3. Do the same on the other side.
4. remove calipers and push pistons back in to remove air from calipers.
5. manually bleed brakes again
6. crack the bolt on master cylinder again

this should have you done in under 1/2 hour.
 

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Beg/borrow/steal/buy a vacuume bleeder, you'll be done in about 5 mins.
 

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Sears sells mityvacs for $35....my dealer sells them for $60
I'm too stupid and couldn't get the mityvac to work properly and was wasting fluid so I returned it and they took it back.
 

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The Mity Vacs Work Nice But I Would Still...vac The Lines, Push The Pistons Back In The Calipers And Then Bleed The Line Again
 

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If all else fails, do the following trick that I learned from Vincent Hill from the ZX-12R boards.

  1. Make sure all of your banjo bolts are torqued to spec.
  2. Apply the front brake lever firm, but not overly hard.
  3. While keeping the brake lever in the firm position, zip tie the brake lever to the handlebar.
  4. Let this sit overnight, or at least for several hours.
  5. Cut the zip tie and and slowly release the brake lever.
  6. Pump the brake lever a few times. It should be firmer now.
  7. Check all of your connections for leaks.
 

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magzx12r said:
If all else fails, do the following trick that I learned from Vincent Hill from the ZX-12R boards.

  1. Make sure all of your banjo bolts are torqued to spec.
  2. Apply the front brake lever firm, but not overly hard.
  3. While keeping the brake lever in the firm position, zip tie the brake lever to the handlebar.
  4. Let this sit overnight, or at least for several hours.
  5. Cut the zip tie and and slowly release the brake lever.
  6. Pump the brake lever a few times. It should be firmer now.
  7. Check all of your connections for leaks.
cool, i may have to try that myself
 

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this was in the galfer instructions if any of you got them...used their lines 3x and this is first time I got instructions...neat little way to test for leaks though
 

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madkaw said:
I have never been a fan of hopping the line from one caliper to the next so I went with two seperate lines. When running linked braking lines such as this the pressure is not the same from one caliper to the next. Especially on the 10 because it has a -4 line from the mc to the right side and then a -3 line from the right over to the left. by running this smaller line from right to left the volume goes down but the pressure goes up on the left.
Can you support this assertion with any evidence? This totally contradicts Hydraulics 101 (unless I wasn't paying attention in class.)
 

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I also tap the lines with a wrench (or other suitable tapping tool). Air bubbles can stick to the sides of the lines, kinda like bubbles in a soda bottle. A few taps on the lines can knock em off and they float to the top. (or push to the bottom).
 

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magzx12r said:
If all else fails, do the following trick that I learned from Vincent Hill from the ZX-12R boards.

  1. Make sure all of your banjo bolts are torqued to spec.
  2. Apply the front brake lever firm, but not overly hard.
  3. While keeping the brake lever in the firm position, zip tie the brake lever to the handlebar.
  4. Let this sit overnight, or at least for several hours.
  5. Cut the zip tie and and slowly release the brake lever.
  6. Pump the brake lever a few times. It should be firmer now.
  7. Check all of your connections for leaks.
i did this....worked great....changed the whole feel of the lever
 
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