Unless you broke a hard part - the swing arm mounts? or the swing arm itself, I’m at a loss to think of a place besides the chain adjusters themselves that could cause the kind of slack you’re talking about.
Problem With Drive Train
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check the rear sprocket hub/cush drive... look for the spacer that is supposed to be in the center of the back of the hub (the axle slides through it). sometimes when we swap rims, tires, we set the hub down, with the sprocket up, and the inside down, and this spacer falls out. (it will be laying where you swapped the wheel 
) without the spacer, the hub will cock to one side and do what you are describing.
next look at the front and rear sprockets closely, make sure they are not missing any teeth at all.
if everything checks out, I would re-align, and tighten the chain. and go for a test drive.
sometimes when adjusting the chain, if you don't put a binder in between the chain and the rear sprocket to draw the adjuster blocks, all the way to the stop nut, it will pop the blocks forward to the stops, and loosen the chain.
my procedure is to loosen the axle nut, align the chain, set the slack, put a medium diameter screwdriver into the chain, rear sprocket valley, and rotate the wheel backward carefully so you don't damage the chain or sprocket (or the tool), until the slack is taken up, and the adjuster blocks are against the stops. hold the wheel in that position, tighten the axle nut to spec. roll the wheel forward, remove tool, and check for slack and alignment. repeat as required, until you are happy
I hope it works out, and you can make your track day. Ski
) without the spacer, the hub will cock to one side and do what you are describing. next look at the front and rear sprockets closely, make sure they are not missing any teeth at all.
if everything checks out, I would re-align, and tighten the chain. and go for a test drive.
sometimes when adjusting the chain, if you don't put a binder in between the chain and the rear sprocket to draw the adjuster blocks, all the way to the stop nut, it will pop the blocks forward to the stops, and loosen the chain.
my procedure is to loosen the axle nut, align the chain, set the slack, put a medium diameter screwdriver into the chain, rear sprocket valley, and rotate the wheel backward carefully so you don't damage the chain or sprocket (or the tool), until the slack is taken up, and the adjuster blocks are against the stops. hold the wheel in that position, tighten the axle nut to spec. roll the wheel forward, remove tool, and check for slack and alignment. repeat as required, until you are happy
I hope it works out, and you can make your track day. Ski
Thanks for the feedback and I will be checking these items when I get off of work. I am a little confused on the screwdriver part (bear with me I am a little slowcheck the rear sprocket hub/cush drive... look for the spacer that is supposed to be in the center of the back of the hub (the axle slides through it). sometimes when we swap rims, tires, we set the hub down, with the sprocket up, and the inside down, and this spacer falls out. (it will be laying where you swapped the wheel
next look at the front and rear sprockets closely, make sure they are not missing any teeth at all.
if everything checks out, I would re-align, and tighten the chain. and go for a test drive.
sometimes when adjusting the chain, if you don't put a binder in between the chain and the rear sprocket to draw the adjuster blocks, all the way to the stop nut, it will pop the blocks forward to the stops, and loosen the chain.
my procedure is to loosen the axle nut, align the chain, set the slack, put a medium diameter screwdriver into the chain, rear sprocket valley, and rotate the wheel backward carefully so you don't damage the chain or sprocket (or the tool), until the slack is taken up, and the adjuster blocks are against the stops. hold the wheel in that position, tighten the axle nut to spec. roll the wheel forward, remove tool, and check for slack and alignment. repeat as required, until you are happy
I hope it works out, and you can make your track day. Ski
:badteeth
I understand the part where you put it in the chain but am unsure as to the rear sprocket valley? I was having issues with the axle blocks not touching the adjusters after tightening, so I switched the axle over so the tightening force was pushing the axle forward. I will take a picture of what I try according to your suggestions.
I see what you're doing there and off the top of my head cant think of any reason that wouldnt be okay. Could it be possible that when tightening the axel nut - assuming you were tightening away from the bike or rear - that you may have pulled the axel blocks away from the adjuster stops a little and didnt notice? Then went for a ride and on a wheelie the weight of the bike all going to the back pulled the rear wheel up to the adjusters?? Im just not sure if the sheer weight of the bike could overcome the torque required for the axel nut. Just a hunch. Gotta be some reason your chain/axel blocks moved.Thanks for the feedback and I will be checking these items when I get off of work. I am a little confused on the screwdriver part (bear with me I am a little slow
:badteeth
Yeh I forget many things, so it always easier to go through the basics before hand
ccasion1From the quick glance had, from what I saw nothing seemed to be out of the ordinary made sure to pay close attention to the axle blocks and the adjusters themselves and I did not notice anything out of place. Now mind you I was a bit rushed as I needed to get to work, head back home, switch bikes, Etc. Gonna get a go look over after work.
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