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Discussion Starter #1
First night at the strip. 10.7 @ 133. 110 at the 1/8th. Now....where should I be shifting to pull more out on top? I was basically flying from the seat of the pants and holding it to 12 grand for every gear. I am thinking I need to be shifting in the 8-10 range. BTW. Bike is on stock gearing.
 

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Shift at redline.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Am I missing something here? I am assuming that you are serious Ruthless with taking it to redline, although I believe power drops off at 10-5 to 11 grand (?). A spectator asked me why I wasn't speed shifting, and it is my gut feeling that with STOCK gearing, keeping it in the upper end of the rev range is priority, and it is SLIGHTLY harder to do that on the stock gearing, hence the primary reason why you would drop a tooth up front. I am essentially a rookie at the drag thing so correct me where I am wrong and any and all help is appreciated.
 

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Am I missing something here? I am assuming that you are serious Ruthless with taking it to redline, although I believe power drops off at 10-5 to 11 grand (?). A spectator asked me why I wasn't speed shifting, and it is my gut feeling that with STOCK gearing, keeping it in the upper end of the rev range is priority, and it is SLIGHTLY harder to do that on the stock gearing, hence the primary reason why you would drop a tooth up front. I am essentially a rookie at the drag thing so correct me where I am wrong and any and all help is appreciated.
The 10R as you know has a long first gear, so adding more gear is a good idea. You need to invest a strap so you can launch the 10R better and get your times down. SEAT TIME is also key in lowering your ET's. Clutchless upshifts are the only way to go. I've always shifted at redline no matter where peak power was made. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The 10R as you know has a long first gear, so adding more gear is a good idea. You need to invest a strap so you can launch the 10R better and get your times down. SEAT TIME is also key in lowering your ET's. Clutchless upshifts are the only way to go. I've always shifted at redline no matter where peak power was made. :thumbsup:
Thanks Ruthless. Agreed on the seat time. I DO have straps and a -1 front spocket, but I have waited to put anything on with the idea of getting STOCK seat time to work on ME first. My best reaction time was a .530 and I am launching at 5-6 grand so the reaction time alone shows I could use practice at the line. Thanks again for the help.
 

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the key with shift points is to shift beyond the power peak so you can stay in the meatiest part of the powerband. for example... if your power peak is 11,000 and redline is 13 and you lose 3000 rpm when shifting from 1-2 you'd want to shift around 12,500 so your staying directly over the power peak. it will change a little from each gear but like ruthless said you can't go wrong ringing it out to redline as most big bores make peak power before redline. You just don't want to hit the limiter and you also don't want to shift 50 feet before the finish line. :thumbsup:
 

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Thanks Ruthless. Agreed on the seat time. I DO have straps and a -1 front spocket, but I have waited to put anything on with the idea of getting STOCK seat time to work on ME first. My best reaction time was a .530 and I am launching at 5-6 grand so the reaction time alone shows I could use practice at the line. Thanks again for the help.
reaction time has no bearing on e.t. it only becomes a factor when racing others not when your racing your own e.t. you would probaly benefit from the sprocket as it will make things a little easier on your clutch. strap thats bad boy as well..
I think I went 10.20's bone stock and got the bike in the nines with a strap and lowering links with a few bolt ons.
 

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reaction time has no bearing on e.t. it only becomes a factor when racing others not when your racing your own e.t. you would probaly benefit from the sprocket as it will make things a little easier on your clutch. strap thats bad boy as well..

the key with shift points is to shift beyond the power peak so you can stay in the meatiest part of the powerband. for example... if your power peak is 11,000 and redline is 13 and you lose 3000 rpm when shifting from 1-2 you'd want to shift around 12,500 so your staying directly over the power peak. it will change a little from each gear but like ruthless said you can't go wrong ringing it out to redline as most big bores make peak power before redline. You just don't want to hit the limiter and you also don't want to shift 50 feet before the finish line. :thumbsup:

:+1:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Guys...thank you all very much for the help. Again, it's been said before and I will say it again, it is the members (like you) that make this a truly great site. I will be back at it this weekend hunting mid to low 10's.
 

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How's the fight for low 10's coming along?
 
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