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Hello all,

I have finalised the ZX10R amongst other choices, however the 10R is currently not being sold in India since March 2020 since there has been a rather stringent emission norms upgrade for vehicles, the standard is more or less the same as Euro VI. Then the coronavirus happened so the entire country is badly affected in terms of manufacturing, especially imports are just starting to crawl in.

The Ninja1000 with upgraded emission norms is launched but it feels too similar to my N650 and it feels heavy. I am simply opting for the 10R because its scary and fun to ride.

Kawasaki customer service here is quite indifferent, so they have given me a rather undefined timeline of October to February next year. This is not exclusive to Kawasaki as no supersports from other brands have arrived with the new emission norms either.

So the wait begins.

Meanwhile I will do preparations so that the ownership remains as hassle free as possible.

Some information that relates to my usage and environment.

I will be keeping the bike stock regarding the exhaust.
I ride long distances and non-stock exhausts give me a headache over time.
I may do a trackday once an year since the nearest track is 600 miles away.
I will be doing trips of 200-400 miles on this thing since I mostly do longer distances (500-1000+) on my Ninja 650
I live in an arid region with temperatures ranging from 85-118F and during summers its quite dusty.
My height is 5'11.

- I usually do the initial break in of 600 miles in a single day on all my bikes by going out on the highway and then revving it up slowly to mid rpm ranges and then let it slow down on by itself without using brakes. I do not redline or even come close to it during this time. Then get the first oil change done with filter.
The next 600 miles I slowly keep increasing the revs towards the redline and repeat the process as mentioned above. It takes patience but Im used to doing it. The 10R seems to have two power bands, one at 8k rpm and another one at 12k so I am not sure if this method is the best method for it.

So is this method fine for the 10R?

- What is the ideal temp range to expect running in 100-110F weather ?

- Is there any cutoff for the engine if it overheats in standstill traffic ?

- What coolant or coolant ratio should I use since I'll never see anything close to freezing temperatures ?

- What is the ideal oil change interval ? (Kawasaki suggests every 3-3.5k miles)

- What tyres would be ideal for road usage ?

- What windshield would be best to deflect air the most?

- Does anyone use something like a shock sox for the 10R ? Fork seals get bust very easily due to the fine abrasive nature of the dust around here.

- Can this bike be run on 91 RON fuel if I dont find 95 or 99 on the highway ? ( 95 is rare to find on highways) Is there any octane booster that can help prevent knocking when running on 91 octane fuel ? Where I live I can get 99 RON also but only in the city.

- Apart from OEM air filter, is there any filter that is equally effective in trapping dust ? There is a brand called HiFloFiltro that makes oem spec filters but I haven't used them yet but its about 25% cheaper than OEM.

- Is anyone running a 10R with an automatic chain oiler like scottoiler ?
I use ATF oil to lubricate my chain, even though I have to do it rather often. I have tried a lot of chain sprays over the past but all of them collect the dust and it turns into an abrasive paste and the chain gets noisy. Chain sprays are also quite expensive since they are imported and not made here.


Riding gear
- I am considering the Dainese Super Speed Textile Jacket with added armour for the back and chest and Drake Super Air Tex Pants.

I don't think ill be able to wear leathers even for a bit considering the temperatures that we see here. If anyone has any recommendations other than what I listed please do so.

- Helmet I am considering a Shoei RF1200 or an Arai Corsair X, I currently have a Shoei Qwest and 2 x HJC Rpha ST which fit me quite nicely over long distances.

- Boots I have no idea what's good, I have a pair of AXO Primato that I have been using since a decade (this is my third pair)


These are the inital questions that I have and Ill ask more once I own the bike since simply speculating wont help. Any further tips or suggestions are welcome.

Thank you for taking your time to read through all this.
 

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So is this method fine for the 10R?

- What is the ideal temp range to expect running in 100-110F weather ?

- Is there any cutoff for the engine if it overheats in standstill traffic ?

- What coolant or coolant ratio should I use since I'll never see anything close to freezing temperatures ?

- What windshield would be best to deflect air the most?

- Can this bike be run on 91 RON fuel if I dont find 95 or 99 on the highway ? ( 95 is rare to find on highways) Is there any octane booster that can help prevent knocking when running on 91 octane fuel ? Where I live I can get 99 RON also but only in the city.

id follow the procedure in the manual, the kawa engineers know what is best for their own engine

i live in thailand which is also quite hot and humid... on a hot day and long rides my temps range from around 80ish while riding at speed, then rising up to 95-100 when stopped at a long light.

20000km and it has never shutoff due to heat

i just us pre-mixed motorcycle coolant, i assume its 50/50, i think it was honda repsol brand

any double bubble windscreen will be a nice benefit over stock... the stock screen height is hard to get behind at high speeds.

i only run 95... wouldnt risk putting in 91 especially in high heat.
 

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Welcome to the party! Congrats!

Lots of questions.....

- I usually do the initial break in of 600 miles in a single day on all my bikes by going out on the highway and then revving it up slowly to mid rpm ranges and then let it slow down on by itself without using brakes. I do not redline or even come close to it during this time. Then get the first oil change done with filter.
My opinion is that the break-in is essentially done within the first 20-50 miles. It's been on a dyno to redline already for quality control reasons. You shouldn't be redlining it right out of the gate, of course. But the biggest things to worry about is getting the engine up to operating temps before getting crazy. The coolant temp is not operating temp as that's just the coolant. The oil and crank aren't cooled by that and heat differently. It will take 15-20 miles of normal riding to get the engine temps evened out. Then you can increase the speeds. The other thing is to not hold a constant RPM. Vary the engine speeds. The more the better. Accelerate and engine brake repeatedly. The higher the gear for more sustained torque, the better. Even cruising on the highway, no constant throttle. Back and forth for an average speed on the highway. Do that for the 1000 miles and you'll be fine no matter what RPM you hit even if you get up near redline.

- What is the ideal temp range to expect running in 100-110F weather ?
You'll probably be seeing 190-200degF on the coolant temps at speed.

- Is there any cutoff for the engine if it overheats in standstill traffic ?
If the engine shuts off in standstill traffic, it's because it seized up. The fan comes on at 212degF and the indication will flash "HOT" if temps reach 230degF. If you see that warning, shut it down yourself and let it cool off for awhile before going again. Or just keep moving!

- What coolant or coolant ratio should I use since I'll never see anything close to freezing temperatures ?
Distilled water with Water Wetter is the best to use in non-freezing temps.

- What is the ideal oil change interval ? (Kawasaki suggests every 3-3.5k miles)
What they suggest is preferred. If using it constantly on the track or at high RPMs, then you can shorten the interval some. Otherwise just stick to this.

- What tyres would be ideal for road usage ?
I don't care about the mileage on the tires, so I can't comment on that.

- What windshield would be best to deflect air the most?
I'm always miffed at this question. It's not always about deflecting the air as it is for getting the air to keep your helmet from buffeting around. I'd rather have my helmet out in smooth air than creating a bubble around it. That means no taller, spoiler type windscreens and getting a better helmet to keep the buffeting down. I'm good with the stock height and my X14, so I can't comment on that otherwise.

- Does anyone use something like a shock sox for the 10R ? Fork seals get bust very easily due to the fine abrasive nature of the dust around here.
You can use that thing if you want, but the shock is more hidden and if you keep it clean you don't need to worry about protecting it with a sock.

- Can this bike be run on 91 RON fuel if I dont find 95 or 99 on the highway ? ( 95 is rare to find on highways) Is there any octane booster that can help prevent knocking when running on 91 octane fuel ? Where I live I can get 99 RON also but only in the city.
You should run the lowest rating that doesn't cause knock or ping. On a stock bike, you'll be fine with that if the quality is decent. I run 87/89 a lot in the higher temps in the US, but that's a R+M/2 rating. You don't need the Premium stuff

- Apart from OEM air filter, is there any filter that is equally effective in trapping dust ? There is a brand called HiFloFiltro that makes oem spec filters but I haven't used them yet but its about 25% cheaper than OEM.
OEM Filter would be the best and changed out more frequently in dirtier conditions.

- Is anyone running a 10R with an automatic chain oiler like scottoiler ?
The chain is sealer. You don't need one of those things. They are for chains that aren't sealed and need oiling. These don't. Keep them clean and lubed to prevent corrosion. You can't oil the rollers since they're sealed and oil will collect more dust and debris. Skip that thought because it's not needed.
 
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Aside from the 87/89 octane part. I 100% agree with what he said. No need to run anything higher than 91/93 but that is equivalent to 99 ron I believe
 

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Aside from the 87/89 octane part. I 100% agree with what he said. No need to run anything higher than 91/93 but that is equivalent to 99 ron I believe
Nah, not all the time. Highly modded bikes benefit from that, but stock tunes can run the lower octane if it's good quality. Hot, humid, high altitude conditions drop the air pressure which will lower the compression ratio. That's why the power of the motor drops at altitude. If the compression drops like that, the octane doesn't need to be so high. The lower the octane, the quicker it burns and makes more power than the higher octane, slower burning fuel is to prevent pre-ignition and knock. But hey, feel free to run whatever you want in your bike. ;)

Of course, the compression ratio doesn't actually change. It's just less air, less fuel in the cylinders means not as much is being compressed.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
i just us pre-mixed motorcycle coolant, i assume its 50/50, i think it was honda repsol brand
any double bubble windscreen will be a nice benefit over stock... the stock screen height is hard to get behind at high speeds.
i only run 95... wouldnt risk putting in 91 especially in high heat.
Thanks for the input, yes I have a CBR250R as well and Honda has a coolant like that in a 50:50 ratio. Will have to see first what Kawasaki uses and then compare the ratio.
91 RON is the only common fuel here and getting 99 is quite difficult anywhere outside the city.

Welcome to the party! Congrats!

My opinion is that the break-in is essentially done within the first 20-50 miles. It's been on a dyno to redline already for quality control reasons. You shouldn't be redlining it right out of the gate, of course. But the biggest things to worry about is getting the engine up to operating temps before getting crazy. The coolant temp is not operating temp as that's just the coolant. The oil and crank aren't cooled by that and heat differently. It will take 15-20 miles of normal riding to get the engine temps evened out. Then you can increase the speeds. The other thing is to not hold a constant RPM. Vary the engine speeds. The more the better. Accelerate and engine brake repeatedly. The higher the gear for more sustained torque, the better. Even cruising on the highway, no constant throttle. Back and forth for an average speed on the highway. Do that for the 1000 miles and you'll be fine no matter what RPM you hit even if you get up near redline.

If the engine shuts off in standstill traffic, it's because it seized up. The fan comes on at 212degF and the indication will flash "HOT" if temps reach 230degF. If you see that warning, shut it down yourself and let it cool off for awhile before going again. Or just keep moving!

You should run the lowest rating that doesn't cause knock or ping. On a stock bike, you'll be fine with that if the quality is decent. I run 87/89 a lot in the higher temps in the US, but that's a R+M/2 rating. You don't need the Premium stuff
Thanks for the detailed reply !

Of course. I always let the engine heat soak a bit before opening up the throttle even halfway. Yes I do vary the rpms constantly .

Like this:
From near idle go till the rev range kawasaki recommends during break in without lugging it.
Then let it drop down to near idle speeds on its own without breaks.
Over a period of 1500-2000 miles increase the range of the rpm till redline.

When the coolant is overheating there is no thermal max shutoff ? 230F = 110C will keep that number noted. Good thing it displays the temp unlike my Ninja 650.


I'm always miffed at this question. It's not always about deflecting the air as it is for getting the air to keep your helmet from buffeting around. I'd rather have my helmet out in smooth air than creating a bubble around it. That means no taller, spoiler type windscreens and getting a better helmet to keep the buffeting down. I'm good with the stock height and my X14, so I can't comment on that otherwise.
Yes I kind of meant this.
Windshield on my Ninja 650 has a double bubble and that has reduced the buffeting on my helmet quite considerably, but the seating posture is completely upright on my 650.
I guess Ill get to know when I ride the bike itself at speed.

Nah, not all the time. Highly modded bikes benefit from that, but stock tunes can run the lower octane if it's good quality. Hot, humid, high altitude conditions drop the air pressure which will lower the compression ratio. That's why the power of the motor drops at altitude. If the compression drops like that, the octane doesn't need to be so high. The lower the octane, the quicker it burns and makes more power than the higher octane, slower burning fuel is to prevent pre-ignition and knock. But hey, feel free to run whatever you want in your bike. ;)

Of course, the compression ratio doesn't actually change. It's just less air, less fuel in the cylinders means not as much is being compressed.
This is the latest chart for fuels in India after the BS VI emission norm update in March 2020.

445945


From what I read on the internet
In the United States gas stations describe the types of gasoline based on the Pump Octane Number (PON). That number is the average between RON and MON. This causes many problems.
If a fuel is 98 RON then it will be 93 PON -> 93 PUMP
If a fuel is 95 RON and 87 MON then it will be 91 PON -> 91 PUMP


Basically our standard fuel is 91 RON or (91+81) = 86 US Octane.

Getting higher Octane fuel is quite difficult apart from in main metropolitan cities, so most people who do need it end up using Octane boosters to prevent knocking.

I live in a very hot, dry, dusty region at sea level.
But India has the Himalayas as well which are one of the highest places as well and the power drop makes you feel you lost half the cylinders.

I've been to possibly one of the highest roads in the world on my 650
445946



Which was approx 19100 feet as measured. While my battery had issues due to the cold temperatures, the bike started up in one crank all the time.
445947
 

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Having spent a little bit of time in Rishikesh/Delhi I can’t imagine riding a Zx10r there but good on you for the commitment! Sounds like you’ll take great care of the bike once you get it.
 

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Having spent a little bit of time in Rishikesh/Delhi I can’t imagine riding a Zx10r there but good on you for the commitment! Sounds like you’ll take great care of the bike once you get it.
Oh having anything more than 40 bhp is not logical here, but then nothing comes close to the thrill of the power and engineering of these liter class machines.
I don't find big adv machines appealing due to their weight and I've had my share of naked motorcycles by owning two ktm dukes previously.

So a supersports it is. 😬😬
 

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Yeah the US uses the Anti Knock Index (AKI) for octane numbers, as stated, it’s the average of RON (Reasearch Octane Number) and MON (Motor Octane Number). MON is a more stringent measure than RON, so the same fuel measures a lower number on AKI than pure RON. I think India uses RON?

The petrol tank should have a sticker on it telling you the minimum recommended octane rating. Stick to that where possible to prevent knocking.

91 AKI is approximately 95 RON.

***Edit
Yeah Kawasaki India states 95RON....
 
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