[Carbon Dragon]

Stripped bike down to do a transmission swap... 5th gear went out on me... Got everything bolted back up, motor back on the frame, and all connectors are in place, PC III hooked up and grounded.

I turn the key, turn on the ignition... No Lights on the PC III, motor turns over but, never fires. Put the battery on the charger thinking that maybe this could be the issue. Put battery back in, turn the key, turn the ignition, PC III cycles, bike fires up and runs for 5 minutes. I turn it off, turn it back on, no power to the PC III... Turns over but, won't start.

What the hell is going on, bike ran fine besides the trans... Took motor off to rebuild the trans, put motor back on, plugged everything up, ad now this... Need help bad.

 

[SkyDork]

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that since you removed the motor and unplugged everything, that you don't have it plugged back in right. :badteeth:

Have you hooked up the 9volt battery adapter plug to the PCIII to see if it will turn on by itself? Have you checked the bike's fuses? Have you measured power at the connector to the PCIII to see if there's even power to the unit from the ignition switch? Have you removed the PCIII completely and checked that the motor will start without the PC on the bike?

If you answered "no" to any of the above questions, there's the first place to start troubleshooting from.

 

[Carbon Dragon]

I'll jump back in the fire and try out what you suggested. I don't have the 9V connector for the PC III... (bought the bike used with the PC III already on it)

I'll be back in touch with you guys later on today after work and let you know what the outcome is...

Thank you for the fast response.

 

[zx racer]

Check make sure you have the pc plug up in the right place under the fuel rail.

 

[Carbon Dragon]

Checked last night after work... PC III is plugged in under the fuel rail (Red looking plug) on the Rear Brake side of the bike, the plug that went into the fuel rail (Red looking plug) is plugged into the open Gray plug from the PC III, and the TPS is plugged in as well along with the secondary plug (white plugs). It is also grounded on the negative battery terminal.

Sometimes the PC III powers up and cycles, then other times it doesn't...

 

[SkyDork]

Sometimes the PC III powers up and cycles, then other times it doesn't...

This would be indicative of a poor power connection. Pull the power connector and make sure there's no bent, corroded, or loose pins in there.

 

[dricked]

Solder it. Loose the junky T tap, it sounds like this is the problem.

 

[Carbon Dragon]

Do you guys think I could have a short in my actual harness... Everything comes on and I can flip the ignition switch, hit the start button and it will spin over as if it wants to crank but, the PC III isn't on.

If I can post a video of the whole deal, I will. Wrecking my brain :angryfire:

 

[Carbon Dragon]

Dricked... What are you referring to when you talk about the T-Tap??? I don't think I'm using 1 of those, I don't think.

 

[SkyDork]

Do you guys think I could have a short in my actual harness... Everything comes on and I can flip the ignition switch, hit the start button and it will spin over as if it wants to crank but, the PC III isn't on.

If I can post a video of the whole deal, I will. Wrecking my brain :angryfire:

It's not very likely that the harness is bad. It's more likely a bad connection or a bad PC. You need to remove the PC all together and see if the motor will start without it. Then you need to try powering the PC with it off the bike to see if it will power on and stay on.

 

[Simon0721]

There are no t-tap connector on Gen 1-2 pcIII so it's not the case. Disconnect the PCIII and try to start the bike, it's the best thing you can do to start analyzing the issue.

 

[SkyDork]

Here's what the power adapter look like. All you need to do is get power applied to the right pins. You can use a 9v battery or the bikes battery directly to do it off the bike. Red is positive, black is negative.

 

[dricked]

There are no t-tap connector on Gen 1-2 pcIII so it's not the case. Disconnect the PCIII and try to start the bike, it's the best thing you can do to start analyzing the issue.

Gotcha.

Inspect the plugs for corrosion and reinstall (after you've had the bike running without the PCIII) using dielectric grease on all connectors.

 

[Carbon Dragon]

So went into the garage yesterday and as you all suggested... took the PC III completely out of the loop, plugged everything up in stock locations... I got nothing... Lights, Tach, etc. come on as they should but, the Fuel Pump doesn't prime, the exhaust valve motor doesn't cycle open, and the Butterflies don't angle open either ( had the Airbox off ).

I can hit the starter and it will turn over fine but, won't start. Could the Tilt Position Sensor cause this? Is there an additional sensor near the Throttle Position sensor?

On Sunday sometimes the PC III would cycle and the bike would start. I could cut it off or it would cut off... I would turn the key to off and then back to on, hit the ignition and the PC III wouldn't get power. :|:frown2::crying:

 

[dricked]

Definitely check the tip sensor.

 

[Carbon Dragon]

Is it located near the battery box on the frame?

 

[SkyDork]

The tip over sensor would cause the bike not to fire up. But in no way would it disable power to the lights or tach. The tip over sensor kills power to the fuel pump and ignition circuits to kill the motor. Additionally, if the sensor is tripped, the FI warning light should flash on the dash while the starter motor is engaged. If the switch is tripped, everything should be normal with the exception of the fuel pump and the motor actually starting. So you can check it, but I'm sure that's not your problem.

You've got other issues going on with the harness the way I see it. First thing I'd be doing is checking ALL the fuses. Next check the relay box connectors to make sure they are fully seated and no bent pins in them. The ECU connections are next. Next would be all the other harness connections in the same manner. Aside from something obvious jumping out during these checks, you'll have to start measuring each wire for power according to the schematic.

Look at the symptoms here. The starter motor circuit is on it's own. The starter button basically connects the battery directly to the starter motor through a fuse, switch and relay. It's simple and bypasses everything else. The dash, fuel pump, ignition circuits are all dependent on the ECU and somewhat integrated together in a way. You've got issues going on with a main harness connector not plugged in properly or damaged somewhere and you have to track it down.

And it's time to settle down and go through each of them systematically. Don't look at them and say to yourself "I've already checked that, it must be right". Unplug each one, verify the number of pins inside look good, that it matches the opposing connector, and then reconnect it. So many times people get frustrated and overlook obvious things because they get wrapped around some other problem that's not a problem.

 

[Carbon Dragon]

I will do that this evening... let you guys know what I come up with.

 

[Jeradcarty]

what did you find out?? mine is doing the exact same thing and i need help fixing so any help would be greatly appreciated ....
Thanks
Jerad