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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks, no spec in the manual for what a Gen 4 set of clocks will pull. I am hoping some other folks with Gen 4's have measured the parasitic draw on their battery. Any amperage readings for a Gen 4 without add-ons in the off state would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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rule of thumb for cars is less than 9 milliamps is ok.
Personally I like the dim test light bulb quick easy truthful just not spot on accurate
 

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my rule of thumb is to keep the shoria trickle on it when bike sits for more than one day. I think oem battery is light weight but not as good as shoria.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No question the OEM battery is grossly undersized. Probably part of shooting for the best publishable wet weight specs on paper versus consideration around serviceability.

I was really hoping for real measured numbers.

The rule of thumb numbers are something that dont always work for a given application as much as we like them to. The background supported electronics on standby just vary so much. I have seen up to 50 milliamps being 'OK' for a cage.

I have measured mine to be approx 55 milliamps if I read my multimeter correctly (it range is not milliamp specific). I pulled the gage fuse and it drops to the teens, so its all the clocks. That later number is consistent for old school bikes, so need one for one of these new fangled whiz bang bikes.

I am surprised with 4 model years of these out there and lots of mentions of battery issues that I could not fine an actual measurement taken by others.

I may have no choice but to go to a dealer and see if they have a bike in PDI they can gauge and possibly even use my multimeter to have comparison for its scale and sensitivity.
 

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If someone has say a fluke digital multimeter can they just disconnect the positive terminal of the battery and use the ampmeter to check the draw? Or am I missing something here, I use to have a Fluke but my ex sold it at a garage sale just to be a bitch (and house, Stihl chainsaw, car, tools, cameras you get the drill)
 

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If someone has say a fluke digital multimeter can they just disconnect the positive terminal of the battery and use the ampmeter to check the draw? Or am I missing something here, I use to have a Fluke but my ex sold it at a garage sale just to be a bitch (and house, Stihl chainsaw, car, tools, cameras you get the drill)
Yes just need to wait 5-10 minutes for the controller to go to sleep

I could check my gen 3 if you would like ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks R/T, any kind of numbers would be helpful. Being latemodel it does have constant power to the gauges, even if the ECU bits arent the same.

Yep, Peter. Doesnt have to be the positive, can be the negative terminal too.
 

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Just noticed your B17g isn't it with the lower chin turret!I am a plane admirer especially WW2 era and actually had a thirty minute flight in a P51D sitting behind a F111 pilot(owner) named Jeff Trappet,amazing experience and my hat is off to the young men who flew these fighters
 

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Thanks R/T, any kind of numbers would be helpful. Being latemodel it does have constant power to the gauges, even if the ECU bits arent the same.

Yep, Peter. Doesnt have to be the positive, can be the negative terminal too.
Crap been a busy week I'll get down there tonight and get the numbers
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just noticed your B17g isn't it with the lower chin turret!I am a plane admirer especially WW2 era and actually had a thirty minute flight in a P51D sitting behind a F111 pilot(owner) named Jeff Trappet,amazing experience and my hat is off to the young men who flew these fighters
I love anything with wing and never pass on an opportunity to take a hop. The older stuff just have great lines. Bombers dont tend to get the credit that the zoomies do, but the B17 is just sexy. To fly as a target in a flying bucket of gas tooks one heck of set....


I rode in a B17G in 2009 when the Liberty Belle was making its rounds. Got some great footage. Sadly it burned up in a field in 2011 after being forced to land with an engine fire.
 
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