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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I bought an zx10 2009 and it's overheating. I went to the local dealer with it and the checked the pump and it looked och so the changed the thermostat and told me that was the problem. Happy as can be I went home and mounted the fairings and so on and took out for a spin.:laugh2:

Well 100 degrees celsius (I'm from Sweden) not much effort 5500 rpm around 130 km / h. :crying:

140 => 110 degress celsius and finally a short period 116 and flashing. :surprise:

The workshops says that's the radiator that's wrong. The bike was sold from the dealr for the first time 2012 and bee driven 550 something km since then. So it's "brand new". :dontknow:

The thing is that I've had one 04 and one 05 and they felt warmer than this one and those bikes didn't overheat :dontknow:

So I'm thiking "Water Temperature Sensor" but i don't have a code 14.

Any help or tips would bee very very appreciated.
 

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It sounds like you have the workshop manual, and there should be a section on how to test the water temp sensor. That would be a good start and if it is easy to get to nice place to start. Does the temperature rise quickly and suddenly? Or is it slow and steadily increases? If it happens quickly i would try burping the system. If it is slow and steady check the sensor as stated. How did they check the pump? What is och (maybe a typo?) I am unsure as to how to check a water pump except for visibly(leaks) and if it feels like it is binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well more like "steadily increases" but not above 116 celsius. I'f I drive very easy like 80 - 90 km / h then it reaches aound 100 and goes down just below 100 on idle. But if 130-150 km / h it goes really high 110-116.

"och" is and in swedish, typo :)

Looks like that would be the most obvious, check the sensor. If I'm right I just have to remote the fuel tank then I have to find the right cables :)
 

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If it turns out the radiator is the culprit, I imagine that it being clogged to some foreign debris in there, I am unfamiliar with motorcycles radiators but I imagine there is not much difference between moto's and cars. Either way read the manual and see if you can try flushing the radiator out before replacing it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well today I checked the temparature with a cooking thermometer and i shows the same degrees on the bike and the thermometer :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hmmmm I really hope it's the thermostat.

In Celcius

Yesterday:

Start the bike on idle:
- Goes up to 98 degrees the fan kicks in at 95 and it goes down to 90 degrees.
- Used a infrared thermometer and the radiator i equally warm except for near the pump, there it's higher.

On the street:

Went off with 45 degrees and ended with 118 stopped and drove home a bit slower 100 - 108 degrees

They already changed the thermostat and there is no water in the oil. No actual mileage on the bike either and no other sign that points at the head gasket that I know of. I hope that they did put the old one back by mistake :iamwithstupid:

What more could indicate a head gasket problem? Sometimes I wonder if the impeller is doing the job? A friend said it could be that the oilcooler is doing the only circulation in the radiator.

Thoughts? I'm running desperate :frown2::dontknow:
 

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your temp is hi... like a yamaha R1 09 hi....

the thing is that is a low mile bike... should not be like that...

Do this... take the fairing off, start the bike let it go through the cycle (fan on, etc), let it be on the side stand so the rad cap is higher than the bike, and the next day, see if it needs more water...
my gixxer needed this, procedure, with that it needed like 4-6onz of water, but that meant a lot in the temp running.

when a HG goes south... seen 2 things, the reservoir water goes hi.. (no bubles, no nothing) loss of power (you see your friends KTM RC8 besides you at WOT)
seen bubbles on the reservoir when you accelerate, on the stand...

both times seen the AFR go very lean.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Talked to a mecanic today and he said, check the lid to the radiator, and check the impeller.

Today I'm going to tear down the Throttle Body Assy to be able to remove the throttle limiter that the former owner had installed. In Sweden you need a special driving license for this class och motorbike. In the process remove the thermostat for testing. I should open something around at 68 degrees.

Then of course I will have a look in the radiator.

:nerd:
 

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Back in the day I had a RZ350 with overheating issues. After being jerked around by the shop and paying up for repairs that weren't required it turned out to the the radiator cap not holding pressure for the cooling system.

My 1KRR also had a temp issue but that was due to poor service leading to the water pump not being seated correctly and frying the engine. After sourcing a replacement engine from a wrecker I got many miles of trouble free riding. Helped also that I didn't return to the service center I got the bike done at and instead downloaded the manual and started looking after it myself. 70,000kms of happy motoring and still going. )

Hope you work it out but start with the simple tests first and work your way through.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
your temp is hi... like a yamaha R1 09 hi....

the thing is that is a low mile bike... should not be like that...

Do this... take the fairing off, start the bike let it go through the cycle (fan on, etc), let it be on the side stand so the rad cap is higher than the bike, and the next day, see if it needs more water...
my gixxer needed this, procedure, with that it needed like 4-6onz of water, but that meant a lot in the temp running.

when a HG goes south... seen 2 things, the reservoir water goes hi.. (no bubles, no nothing) loss of power (you see your friends KTM RC8 besides you at WOT)
seen bubbles on the reservoir when you accelerate, on the stand...

both times seen the AFR go very lean.
Nope none of the above. Some bubbles but I think it's from the radiator, just a few then no bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Back in the day I had a RZ350 with overheating issues. After being jerked around by the shop and paying up for repairs that weren't required it turned out to the the radiator cap not holding pressure for the cooling system.

My 1KRR also had a temp issue but that was due to poor service leading to the water pump not being seated correctly and frying the engine. After sourcing a replacement engine from a wrecker I got many miles of trouble free riding. Helped also that I didn't return to the service center I got the bike done at and instead downloaded the manual and started looking after it myself. 70,000kms of happy motoring and still going. )

Hope you work it out but start with the simple tests first and work your way through.
I'm actually gonna try the cap first.

But I still have to remove the tank to access throttle, there are two screews and I only can get to one of them :crying:

 

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First thing to do is replace the the cap. Water boils at 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit), at sea level and all other things being basically equal. But this temperature is based on PRESSURE! You can make water boil at room temp if you lower the pressure of it.

The radiator cap is there to keep the pressure up and stop the water from boiling at temps less than about 250 degrees F (112 degrees C). Once the water starts to boil, air is introduced into the system and it wreakes havoc from that point!!!

First thing to do is get a new cap. Then, drain the coolant, flush the system to get rid of any old coolant and blockages in the radiator, and refill it properly with fresh coolant. Then check your progress after doing that.

PS - That pic of the throttle linkage has nothing to do with the cooling system and should not have to be removed to check or fix anything. If you're trying to remove that for other reasons, you take the entire throttlebody assembly off the motor by releasing the pinch bolts from the rubber intact, lift it out of the frame, and remove the cables. You should never be anywhere close to the frame in that case.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
PS - That pic of the throttle linkage has nothing to do with the cooling system and should not have to be removed to check or fix anything. If you're trying to remove that for other reasons, you take the entire throttlebody assembly off the motor by releasing the pinch bolts from the rubber intact, lift it out of the frame, and remove the cables. You should never be anywhere close to the frame in that case.
I have to remove the limiter on the throttle and while Im at it why not check the thermostat. If they really replaced it :surprise: or not. Maby they put wrong one in again :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well i took a look at the cap and started it up:

A quick go through nothing special.



Here might be some trouble, dont know could be some air in the radiator

1:15 well no difference if the thermostat's open same same still increasing in same pace. If it opens wouldn't the pace in increase get a bit slower? Is it open?

2:10 bubbles

3:31 bubbles

4:38 no bubbles

5:31 no bubbles



Misc

An older movie spilling over at throttle!




By the way:


I ordered the cap! 33 euro only from https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu


Kawasaki 490851066 CAP-ASSY-PRESSURE KDX200-E6 1 EUR 21.33 EUR 21.33
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My Gen 3 actually runs very cool, never gets above 78* celsius cruisng at 100 MPH + down the freeway during the hottest days. Of course it goes up when you stop at a traffic light but I have my ECU flashed to turn on the fan at the lowest setting in the woolich software.

When I installed the Kawi race kit throttle 7 years ago I dont recall having to do anything out of the normal to get the stock throttle cables off. I just took them loose at the grip and then worked them out of the throttle body clamps from the side and top with no problem.

Like my old Ninjas never a problem with heating. Not even on a track day :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
box...
there are some HG problems that only present themselves when hot and under load..
Yeas. Gonna start small with the cap if that dosesn't do the trick I'll go for the thermostat when I fix the throttle wire limiter. If that fails I'll go for the HG and test the pressure of the cooling system.

Sounds like a plan?
 

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yes.... like our friend suggested go from simple to complicated...
cap
clean the radiator.
make the test I told you, so you fill the radiator full full
check the thermostat

And I have a good one for you, if it comes to the HG, unless you are the Kal-el brother, when you take the HG off you wont see shit where is damaged...usually when is REALLY bad HG problem you can see where it was...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I did the following this Weekend :grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2::grin2:

Stripped the bike and removed the thermostat and checked it.
While the thermostat was removed I flushed the engine backward after removed the connections to the radiator and guess what :thefinger_red:

Out comes this plugg. Looked like an earplug :biggrin:

This i the remains after I examined it.

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=401642&thumb=1

I'ts running so much better now.

95-96 degrees running 200 km/h and during easy pace 110 km/h 85-88 degress

It got a bit tricky around 150 km/h lika a sweetspot not cooling enough from the wind. At the end of the evening yesterday after 2,5 hours on the bike it whent down to 75 degrees. Much cooler outside.

So conclussion:

Som shit clearly remains in the system that needs too be cleared out. I'm going to do that this weekend. I't still seem to be a bit unsteady in the cooling but rideable:)


My happy bunny

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=401650&thumb=1
 

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