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Discussion Starter #1
So im wondering what can be done to squeeze a little more hp out of my gen 3? As it sits right now i have an m4 exhaust with no, k&n filter, Archer flash, and -1 front sprocket. What other options do i have or tricks can i do without opening the motor up to squeeze a little more out of it? Got a dyno day coming up at the end of the month and id like to see at least 165 out if it.
 

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First of all dyno numbers mean nothing what so ever. Not a lot you can do without opening it up. Full exhaust may help a little. You can get a 1/5th turn throttle to help it "feel" more responsive. You can shed weight on the bike of course. Also you can reduce rotating mass with bearings, wheels, chain and sprockets to fake the dyno into a higher number.
 

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So im wondering what can be done to squeeze a little more hp out of my gen 3? As it sits right now i have an m4 exhaust with no, k&n filter, Archer flash, and -1 front sprocket. What other options do i have or tricks can i do without opening the motor up to squeeze a little more out of it? Got a dyno day coming up at the end of the month and id like to see at least 165 out if it.
as stated above dont worry about the numbers, just look to get a good air fuel ratio. who is tunning it for you? Id reccomend since your not that far taking it to Schnitz racing unless you have a very good tuner set up already. (schnitz sould be about 4 hours from you but worth it) Do the pair block off prior to tunning it to get an accurate AFR. Remove the secondary butterflies. I put all short stacks in mine (just two of the short outter stacks in the middle throttle bodies, their only like $9 each. A larger rear sprocket to help out with the tall gearing, although that wont reflect on a dyno but makes a big difference. and if you really want you can use a multi hub and get it mapped for pump gas and MR12. I just had scnitz dyno mine with full brocks, K&N race filter, secondaries removed, all short stacks, flashed ecu, pair mod, with a multi hub and 89 pump one one map and MR12 on another and made 168 and 173hp with a Shinko Hookup wich is a sticky tire and robs about 10hp on a dyno and sitting 10" over. Removing the butterflies is done in about a half hour and same with the pair mod.

Secondary removal thread
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/how-remove-secondary-butterflies-51847.html

^^^
Gazx10 on here told me its a good idea to get a soldering gun and let it sit on the screws before removing them. This heats the loctite up and helps them come off easier, and worked very well. Careful on the outter screws on both sides their kinda tough to get, just make sure you have a good screwdriver and take your time so you dont strip a screw out.

Removing AIS
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/how-block-off-plate-alternative-removing-ais-3rd-gen-79926.html

^^^
After i did mine i ordered the plug from Archer it was only like $11 to plug into plug that is for the system to not get a code. you can make your own or make just a jumper wire but i liked the idea of the plug. simple and clean looking.

Good luck
 

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as stated above dont worry about the numbers, just look to get a good air fuel ratio. who is tunning it for you? Id reccomend since your not that far taking it to Schnitz racing unless you have a very good tuner set up already. (schnitz sould be about 4 hours from you but worth it) Do the pair block off prior to tunning it to get an accurate AFR. Remove the secondary butterflies. I put all short stacks in mine (just two of the short outter stacks in the middle throttle bodies, their only like $9 each. A larger rear sprocket to help out with the tall gearing, although that wont reflect on a dyno but makes a big difference. and if you really want you can use a multi hub and get it mapped for pump gas and MR12. I just had scnitz dyno mine with full brocks, K&N race filter, secondaries removed, all short stacks, flashed ecu, pair mod, with a multi hub and 89 pump one one map and MR12 on another and made 168 and 173hp with a Shinko Hookup wich is a sticky tire and robs about 10hp on a dyno and sitting 10" over. Removing the butterflies is done in about a half hour and same with the pair mod.

Secondary removal thread
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/how-remove-secondary-butterflies-51847.html

^^^
Gazx10 on here told me its a good idea to get a soldering gun and let it sit on the screws before removing them. This heats the loctite up and helps them come off easier, and worked very well. Careful on the outter screws on both sides their kinda tough to get, just make sure you have a good screwdriver and take your time so you dont strip a screw out.

Removing AIS
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/how-block-off-plate-alternative-removing-ais-3rd-gen-79926.html

^^^
After i did mine i ordered the plug from Archer it was only like $11 to plug into plug that is for the system to not get a code. you can make your own or make just a jumper wire but i liked the idea of the plug. simple and clean looking.

Good luck
Im putting the K&n filter in today so ill just go ahead and do the secondary removal as well. Looks super easy once the airbox is out of the way. Archer is sending the plug you speak of back with my flashed ecu already. As for the block offs ill have to see about doing them as well. Rememeber them on my R6 and it was a pain in the dick!
 

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as stated above dont worry about the numbers, just look to get a good air fuel ratio. who is tunning it for you? Id reccomend since your not that far taking it to Schnitz racing unless you have a very good tuner set up already. (schnitz sould be about 4 hours from you but worth it) Do the pair block off prior to tunning it to get an accurate AFR. Remove the secondary butterflies. I put all short stacks in mine (just two of the short outter stacks in the middle throttle bodies, their only like $9 each. A larger rear sprocket to help out with the tall gearing, although that wont reflect on a dyno but makes a big difference. and if you really want you can use a multi hub and get it mapped for pump gas and MR12. I just had scnitz dyno mine with full brocks, K&N race filter, secondaries removed, all short stacks, flashed ecu, pair mod, with a multi hub and 89 pump one one map and MR12 on another and made 168 and 173hp with a Shinko Hookup wich is a sticky tire and robs about 10hp on a dyno and sitting 10" over. Removing the butterflies is done in about a half hour and same with the pair mod.

Secondary removal thread
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/how-remove-secondary-butterflies-51847.html

^^^
Gazx10 on here told me its a good idea to get a soldering gun and let it sit on the screws before removing them. This heats the loctite up and helps them come off easier, and worked very well. Careful on the outter screws on both sides their kinda tough to get, just make sure you have a good screwdriver and take your time so you dont strip a screw out.

Removing AIS
http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/how-block-off-plate-alternative-removing-ais-3rd-gen-79926.html

^^^
After i did mine i ordered the plug from Archer it was only like $11 to plug into plug that is for the system to not get a code. you can make your own or make just a jumper wire but i liked the idea of the plug. simple and clean looking.

Good luck
Why the hell would you remove the secondaries with the reflash? One of the features of the reflash is to ramp open the secondaries sooner and quicker defeating the purpose of removing them. Don't remove the secondaries. It will affect the low end and do nothing for you in the top end when they're open all the way anyways. The point of the reflash is to get them opened sooner in the mid-range.

The PAIR mod applies to Suzuki's. :badteeth: It's called a KLEEN system on the Kawasaki's. And it does nothing for power improvements.

Seriously, if you're looking for power gains without opening the motor, a full exhaust, air filter, and good tune with ignition timing is about as good as you're going to see.
 

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Why the hell would you remove the secondaries with the reflash? One of the features of the reflash is to ramp open the secondaries sooner and quicker defeating the purpose of removing them. Don't remove the secondaries. It will affect the low end and do nothing for you in the top end when they're open all the way anyways. The point of the reflash is to get them opened sooner in the mid-range.

The PAIR mod applies to Suzuki's. :badteeth: It's called a KLEEN system on the Kawasaki's. And it does nothing for power improvements.

Seriously, if you're looking for power gains without opening the motor, a full exhaust, air filter, and good tune with ignition timing is about as good as you're going to see.
Because not having to open the secondariells at all is quicker than opening them sooner and faster. And sorry removing ais mod, (I'm still a Suzuki guy at heart)no it doesn't give you more power but is needed to get an accurate afr while tuning!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why the hell would you remove the secondaries with the reflash? One of the features of the reflash is to ramp open the secondaries sooner and quicker defeating the purpose of removing them. Don't remove the secondaries. It will affect the low end and do nothing for you in the top end when they're open all the way anyways. The point of the reflash is to get them opened sooner in the mid-range.

The PAIR mod applies to Suzuki's. :badteeth: It's called a KLEEN system on the Kawasaki's. And it does nothing for power improvements.

Seriously, if you're looking for power gains without opening the motor, a full exhaust, air filter, and good tune with ignition timing is about as good as you're going to see.
Well then thats good to know. Ill save myself the time of removing them since the Archer flash says it does what you said to the secondaries. I have heard about what BLUE08 is saying about blockoffs. They are mainly to stop popping on deaccel and give you a more accurate AFR when dyno tuning the bike.
 

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Because not having to open the secondariells at all is quicker than opening them sooner and faster. And sorry removing ais mod, (I'm still a Suzuki guy at heart)no it doesn't give you more power but is needed to get an accurate afr while tuning!
Yes, but the secondaries help with the idle and off-idle running of the motor. Removing them is a pain, is easy to drop one of those tiny screws into the motor, bend the shaft, and screws up the KIMS system since it uses the secondaries to control the motor should the system need to. Opening them smoothly and quickly at a specific point in the RPM band is better than not having them in there.

Removing them was the old school way of getting rid of the upper RPM restrictions on the ZX-14 at the sacrifice of the low end. Now that the reflash handles the task, it's better to leave them in.
 

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Yes, but the secondaries help with the idle and off-idle running of the motor. Removing them is a pain, is easy to drop one of those tiny screws into the motor, bend the shaft, and screws up the KIMS system since it uses the secondaries to control the motor should the system need to. Opening them smoothly and quickly at a specific point in the RPM band is better than not having them in there.

Removing them was the old school way of getting rid of the upper RPM restrictions on the ZX-14 at the sacrifice of the low end. Now that the reflash handles the task, it's better to leave them in.
I guess I agree. I should have asked what he's using the bike for. I pulled mine since its street and strip I pulled mine to get more top end
 

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After a lot of reading, and lots of trial and error I also put my 2ndary flies back in a while ago, particularly with the archer flash. As a all around use, the bike is better with them in.

I agree 100% with Sky on this one
 

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Glad i left mine in yesterday. I looked at them after pulling the airbox and was glad i was told not to take them out.
 

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Short story, and true...lol.
Had zx-Sikr - cant remember his handle/Cody flash mine and open the 2ndaries earlier around 5.5 i think. Dyno tune from Schnitz and on the graph the power curve starts to climb more right there about 5.5. She'll still rocket outta the hole too even with stock gearing...then again im all of 140#s. lol.

By the way if I could add to the OP, ive had the engine head massaged a little for better breathing and added a legit Kawi race cam, not a Gen/whatever intake, ive also had a couple things done in the flash and when you add in a quality full exhaust then you start making power - WITH a good tune! So yea, the bike is a handful but I had to open the engine. You are only gonna get so far with a full system, flash and whatever. Spikes. lol
 
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