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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Got my 16t AFAM front sprocket today and decided to go ahead and tackle it. Wanted to go ahead and get started on it while the weather sucked (rain pourin' down here) to avoid eatin' up good ridin' time on a nice day off, if there ever is such a thing again.

I was surprised at how quick it went after readin' all the horror stories. I've done everything except torque the CS nut and rear axle back down and reinstall the CS sprocket cover/speed sensor and I got done in about 50 minutes. This includes stoppin' to take photos of most of the steps and answerin' the phone once. In all honesty the actual work took about 30 minutes. I've got about 10 minutes worth of work left to do but the hard part is done. I've gotta get a 27mm socket before I can retorque the rear axle nut. Also gotta get a new cotter pin.

Here's the step by step w/pics. Sorry about the sucky lighting. I had to use my shop light stand to get enough light to see in there. Anyway, on to the pics...


First ya gotta remove the speed sensor and then the CS sprocket cover. The bolts circled in yellow have to come out...




I pulled the speed sensor in between the two big hoses and then pulled the CS cover off. It's a tight fit and ya have to maneuver the hoses a little and use caution not to scratch the frame paint but it comes out without havin' to take anything else loose. Wish I had put a little masking tape on the frame before pullin' the cover. I didn't scratch it but better to be safe than sorry...

Here's the bastid that seems to give everyone fits...




Next step is to flatten out the bend washer that sits between the sprocket nut and the face of the sprocket. I used a flat blade screw driver and a hammer to lightly tap the washer flat. Here's a closer pic of the washer before I flattened it. Only one small area (on the left in this pic) is bent up against the sprocket nut but but the whole thing needs to be tapped flat against the sprocket to allow a full depth grip of the sprocket nut with the 32mm socket to avoid roundin' the leading edge of the nut off...





Ok, here's where everyone supposedly has the most trouble... Breakin' the CS sprocket nut loose. I fired the compressor up, let it build pressure, slipped the 32mm deep well impact socket onto my 1/2" air impact driver and slid it on the nut expectin' world war III. The impact driver rattled about three times and the nut came off so fast it scared me. I thought it had rounded it off or I wasn't on it good or somethin'. I had the tranny in neutral and didn't even hold the rear brake or block the wheel in any way. The impact driver simply made short order of knockin' the nut loose and spinnin' it completely off. I actually took the nut out of the socket and turned it back on a turn or so to make this photo. I know I joked about mine poppin' right off... but it literally did!





I had left the axle torqued down expectin' to have to use the drive chain and rear brake to break the nut loose. Once the nut was off I pulled the cotter pin and loosened the chain adjusters to create slack so I could get the chain off the rear sprocket.




I fought and fought with the damned chain tryin' to get it slack enough to come off the rear sprocket but it just wouldn't come off. I ended up pullin' the axle and droppin' the whole wheel down and forward to get the chain off. This took WAY longer than the CS nut did for me...




With all that slack in the chain the new 16t front went on easy. Here's the AFAM in it's new home. All that's left to do to it is put the bend washer on, install and torque the nut, and bend the washer back down on one of the flat sides of the nut like it was in the pic above of it on the stock sprocket. I used a flat blade screw driver and a hammer to gently bend the washer back.





Here's a shot with everything back together but not torqued. I'm also gonna clean the crud outta the CS sprocket chain guard. Lotsa caked up grease in there. Once that's cleaned all I have left to do is torque the CS nut, adjust the chain tension, torque the axle nut, slide a cotter pin in and pop the CS cover and speed sensor back on...





There ya have it... It went a lot easier and quicker than I was expectin'. If I'd had all the tools I needed I could have finished in just over an hour includin' takin' photos and the phone call. The air impact wrench is a LIFE SAVER I'm sure. I feel for anyone who does it with a breaker bar...


Can't wait to test ride it with the 16t installed!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks BD...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sends speed info to the speedometer. I'm not technical enough to know how to explain it in depth but I think it counts revolutions of the countershaft via a magnetic pick-up and the computer translates the countershaft revolutions into vehicle speed. Of course the calculation is inaccurate with non stock gearing. That's why a speedohealer is needed to get accurate speedo readings and odometer count. The speedohealer intercepts the signal from the sensor and compensates for whatever changes you've made in gearing or tire height, sending a corrected signal to the speedo/odo.
 

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Very well done....lets see....so far you have sold me on Zaino polish and wax, a puig windscreen, given me step by step instructions for several mods that im doin.....I look forward to seeing what you have me doin next....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
BadAzzGuitarPlyr said:
Very well done....lets see....so far you have sold me on Zaino polish and wax, a puig windscreen, given me step by step instructions for several mods that im doin.....I look forward to seeing what you have me doin next....lol
Well, I'm outta money now... As soon as I have enough green I'm prolly gonna get a PC/map and TRE from IVAN. That should make for a decent step by step photo how to. Then I'll be lookin' to get some aftermarket rearsets. Soooooo many mods, not enough funds...
What does a kidney go for these days?
 

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El Diablo said:
Well, I'm outta money now... As soon as I have enough green I'm prolly gonna get a PC/map and TRE from IVAN. That should make for a decent step by step photo how to. Then I'll be lookin' to get some aftermarket rearsets. Soooooo many mods, not enough funds... http://zx-10r.net/forum/images/smilies/smilies/crybaby2.gif What does a kidney go for these days? http://zx-10r.net/forum/images/smilies/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif
I know exactly what you mean....in a way im glad i cant ride as much now so that maybe i can start puttin some money in the bank...nah, ide rather be broke :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
BadAzzGuitarPlyr said:
I know exactly what you mean....in a way im glad i cant ride as much now so that maybe i can start puttin some money in the bank...nah, ide rather be broke :)
Yeah, me too...
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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I really need to get out of the house
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Hey you said it would probablly pop right off for you. But I sure didn't think it would. Good job.

Where were you in April? I could have used those detailed instructions.:mrgreen:
 

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You lucky SOB. I got an email from circusnuts today telling me he had an air impact...4 days too late my friend...SOB...i fought the CS sprocket and I won :eek:)
I'm a winner...I'm a winner...I'm a winner.
El Diablo, sold me on a Puig also...I just haven't ordered it yet.
 

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El Diablo said:
Sends speed info to the speedometer. I'm not technical enough to know how to explain it in depth but I think it counts revolutions of the countershaft via a magnetic pick-up and the computer translates the countershaft revolutions into vehicle speed. Of course the calculation is inaccurate with non stock gearing. That's why a speedohealer is needed to get accurate speedo readings and odometer count. The speedohealer intercepts the signal from the sensor and compensates for whatever changes you've made in gearing or tire height, sending a corrected signal to the speedo/odo.
Hmm, so did you put a speedohealer on your bike? If not, what was the difference in speedo readings with the new countershaft sproket?
 

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most people that went -1cs are running between -12 & -13%. I'm at -12.6% right now (unverified accuracy).
 

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I'm running -11.8% per the speedohealer calculator for gearing change.
 

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How does it feel to have the lower final drive ratio? I sure am not lacking for first gear power, but I would like a slower creeper gear. I sure don't need the top speed of 175 actual so wouldn't mind losing a few mph there.
 

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very nice, but rather normal when compared to previous bikes without a high 1st gear ratio. With the 12% setting i've still had it indicate 168 @ 12.3 which is fine by me.

BD
 

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Big Daddy said:
i've still had it indicate 168 @ 12.3 which is fine by me.

BD
tisk, tisk, tisk.. you hooligan! Oh... strickly on the track, right?? ;)
 
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