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Discussion Starter #1
I have the 10r motor in a road race car. I've recently run it pretty hard (1:51s at Thunderhill) and after a few different cooling methods got the temps in the pan down to about 280-290. I'd like them to be cooler and am working on that. I'm using Redline synthetic 40 wt, which I also ran in my older zx10 with great results. In the mean time, does anyone know what their oil temps are while running the bike hard and/or in hot weather, 90+ degrees?

I'm told that as long as the water temps are under control, under 185-190, that unless the oil gets excessive (?) not to worry too much. Any comments?
 

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Buy an aftermarket oil cooler for the car, it'll take some mods to alter the oil cooler already in the ten, but should bring temps down some. Your water temps sound about right, of course your making the engine work a little harder pushing more weight, but if nothing is melting, your doing good. Put a larger radiator if you can for the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rick, I've removed the heat exchanger (which didn't work at all) and made an adaptor plate to route the oil to a cooler. Way ahead of you on that one. At first I had the cooler in a naca duct in the body. That didn't work, so I relocated the cooler and tie wrapped it to the top of the roll bar. That helped the numbers. I'm going to mod the system some more and make a plate that takes the unfiltered oil, runs it through a remote filter, and then through a bigger heat exchanger. I definitely have some water cooling capacity to spare right now and other cars use the same heat exchanger with good results.

Also wondering if I have too much oil and its getting whipped up by the crank. The oil heats up darn fast, like on the pace car lap!
 

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Have tried the scotts oil filter? Might help a little.
 

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well as long as your running full synthetic oil and changing it fairly oftem I'm not sure there is much more you can do. those temps with conventional oil though wouldn't be good.
do you have a thermostat in the motor?? I'm not even sure at what temp the thermostat opens on the ten..?
 

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I've watched the temp. gauge when it's warming up and right around 150 it will start dropping. I think this is where the thermostat opens.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The thermostat is removed. I have a motor builder buddy that insists on using the thermostat. He also is in the Seattle area where its a bit colder. In the past I blocked off the radiator if the motor is running cold to get the temp up. If the water wasn't at least 165 there was a definite power loss so I'd be surprised if the kawi thermostat was 150 - way too cold. I don't have my manual in front of me but I know the GSXR opens up at 185, which sounds about right.

I don't have a scotts yet, but how would that lower the oil temp?
 

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I ran with the old generation ZX10 motor in a SCCA D-Sports Race car. We wound up with an oil cooler (pirated off of a GT1 / Trans Am Camaro) that was almost the same size as our radiator (early VW Rabbit radiator). This was a several years ago, but I think our oil temps were somewhere in the 190 - 200 range. We started out with an oil cooler that was something like 6" x 16". and had a NACA duct feeding it, but the temps were still too high. Red Line synthetic is the best stuff on the planet, but mighty expensive. That fast oil temparature rise doesn't seem right. We had built a dry sump system for our motor so oil level was never an issue.
 

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what about engine ice
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ZX - cool, another DSR guy! I had the zx10 dry sumped and there were no issues. I used a small cooler with a naca duct, and no problems at all. These new motors seem to make a bunch more heat.

I took about a cup of oil out of the motor to see if that made any difference to oil temps. Didn't seem to but it could still be over filled and whipping the oil. I monitor oil pressure with my data computer and it was a solid 45 PSI except when the revs went below 5K.

Is engine ice a special coolant? Water cooling was not the problem. I've got a heat exchanger on the way for my next experiment.
 

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The motor seemed to be the strongest out there when I raced DSR. But the car was a home-built and the aero package was pretty poor which handicaped the car a great deal. I got a draft off of an Atlantic car on a start and could stay under his wing for a full 5000' straight. However, I went way past my normal brake marker and he was still on the gas. The DSR, even with brick like aerodynamics couldn't hang with the FA, under braking. He had a lot more brakes, downforce and tires. I never saw him after the first turn. But it was fun to see how hard that Kawasaki could pull without the aero drag. I always wondered what he thought when he looked in the mirrors and saw that little blue DSR stuck to the back of his car.
 

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Running my around 205-228 in traffic at sunburn wheather like 104, even cooler when picking up winds around 180-200 when curise. I use kawi stock 10-40 oil and still in breakin period od 380 mi. I think the engine should not exceed 240, like my RC friends tell me about engines.
 
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