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Discussion Starter #1
I put my engine back together, installed it into the race car, removed the plugs and spun the engine with the starter motor to get oil pressure. Didn't get any. Bummer. The only thing I could think of was that little pin fell out (or I forgot to install it) and the oil pump's rotor wasn't spinning. Bummer. The whole clutch/flywheel has to come out to check that.

Removed the clutch, removed the oil pump and that little pin fell out when I did. Had it fallen out earlier? Or just now? Dang. I'd hate to put it all back together without knowing for sure that I had solved the problem. Wish there was some way to test it.

There is! I made a simple fixture that bolts onto the oil pump shaft that I can spin with a hand drill. It worked! After only a few seconds the pump was primed and I had good oil pressure.

Apparently, when you install the pump you have to be careful that the rotor stays fully on the shaft so the pin can't slip out. That means you absolutely can't be wishy washy about it. Push it in, watch it closely and do not go in and out thinking that pin will stay in place.

I know it's a long shot, but thought this post might help someone some day.
 

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Russ,
Where did the pin go when it came out?

I have posted this picture before but getting the screws out of the oil pump can be problematic...


David
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Russ,
Where did the pin go when it came out?
Unfortunately, I can't say for sure. It fell out when I pulled the pump out.

Since I wasn't sure I had found the cause of my no-oil-pressure problem, that's why I made the primer tool. I didn't want to put it all back together just to find that I still had a problem (that the pin was in place after all). My diagnosis (that the pin had fallen out) was the only explanation I could come up with to explain why I wasn't moving any oil.

I had problems with those silly torx bolts, too. I had to drill the head off. I bought a new set of sockets (Husky, Home Depot) and new bolts and that seems to have addressed it. I bought a few extra extra bolts from Kawasaki.

I tried to alter some socket head bolts to fit, but wasn't happy with them. I think the Kaw bolts were better. You just have to be super careful with the torx engagement.

BTW, with my MIG welder & welding skills, I can't imagine successfully doing what you did in your picture. That's impressive. I tried JB Welding a torx socket to the stripped bolt without success.
 

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Can you get to the oil pump bolts through the gear by aligning the holes in the pulley with the bolts holding the oil pump in, to avoid separating the gear from the shaft? My Yamaha FZR400 (which is an engine that I am unfortunately rather familiar with the innards of - I just blew up my race bike a couple weeks ago) is like that. I prime the oil pump on that one by sticking a ratchet extension into a hole in the gear and spinning it by hand before installing the clutch basket.
 

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Funny I went out and purchased new torx drivers also. This ZX10R has gotten to me on the oil pump torx bolt, a camshaft gear bolt and of all things the torx holding the throttle body boots on the head.

TIP for anyone else doing the oil pump; before trying to take out the torx use a small heat source and heat the torx before trying to take them out, heat them up and then let them cool, should come out easily them. A small flame tourch or even a good soldering iron will work.

TIP #2 – after removing the cam gears make sure to clean all the old thread locking compound off bolts and camshafts.


David
 
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