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I recently got an 07 zx10r and I love it. About 4 days ago near the end of my ride which is about a 20 minute ride on the highway at speeds that fluctuate between 70mph to 120mph I began to get a red blinking light and the FI began to flash. There was no loss of power and it made it home no problem. The next day I was on my way home again when this time the red light started blinking but this time the oil symbol was flashing instead of the FI. Again it made it home just fine. I checked the oil level and it was a bit high but nothing that would warrant concern. I looked at the owner's manual and if said that particular light comes on when oil pressure is dangerously low. The next day I was headed to work when towards the end of my ride the bike dies out of nowhere with the oil ajd red light flashing. I turned the bike off and back on and tried to start it and it started back up. That seemed to be how it was until today when I noticed that there was a bolt missing from the right side casing. The middle casing bolt. It was leaking s little oil but not pouring out. I replaced the bolt but I fear I have screwed up my engine by riding it with the oil issue. I now get a knocking noice that I can not only hear but feel in the engine. I'm not sure if its the lifter or the rod. No loss in performance but I didn't ride it far. There seems to be a bit of oil seepage around alot of the gaskets but nothing that I would consider excessive or make me think that a gasket had blown. Just wondering what peoples thoughts were on the issue. I will fix it but would prefer not to go into the bottom casing. Thank you.
 

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Question. Does there have to be metal in the oil to constitute a spun rod bearing. Drained my oil and not a single piece or speck of metal in it. A little water but that's all. I'm almost positive that the knocking I was hearing was a rod. Checked 2 cylinders so far and the middle ones 2 and 3 are not the issue. Need to do 1 and 4 tonight.
 

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Update. There is no metal in my oil. Not a single speck. It's perfectly fine. Also did a check where I take out the spark plugs and put a screw driver down the hole and turn the piston to a little past top dead center and push down on the screw driver to feel if there is a drop and none of them feel loose or anything. So far everything leads away from a blown head gasket. But to what? Also there was a little water in the oil. Can't be for sure exactly how much but there was some when I drained it. I have heard if there is water in the bore then the piston could slap the sides of the journal and cause the same sound as a rod knocking but only on the compression stroke. Now I've thrown a few rods. Cars, trucks, motorcycles and I would have to say it's not as loud as a usual rod knock that ive ever heard. With your helmet on you could easily miss the noice. I feel it more than anything. Plus the knocjs seem further apart then others I have experienced. Someone let me know your thoughts. I'm about to start ordering all I need to fix it up. Fairings, seats, levers, tires, the works and I need my bike tip top because I'm about to overhaul my El Camino so I need my bike running and we'll. Thank you all.
 

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Update. There is no metal in my oil. Not a single speck. It's perfectly fine. Also did a check where I take out the spark plugs and put a screw driver down the hole and turn the piston to a little past top dead center and push down on the screw driver to feel if there is a drop and none of them feel loose or anything. So far everything leads away from a blown head gasket. But to what? Also there was a little water in the oil. Can't be for sure exactly how much but there was some when I drained it. I have heard if there is water in the bore then the piston could slap the sides of the journal and cause the same sound as a rod knocking but only on the compression stroke. Now I've thrown a few rods. Cars, trucks, motorcycles and I would have to say it's not as loud as a usual rod knock that ive ever heard. With your helmet on you could easily miss the noice. I feel it more than anything. Plus the knocjs seem further apart then others I have experienced. Someone let me know your thoughts. I'm about to start ordering all I need to fix it up. Fairings, seats, levers, tires, the works and I need my bike tip top because I'm about to overhaul my El Camino so I need my bike running and we'll. Thank you all.
Uh, I think you are mistaken. If the only thing you did is drain the oil, that won't tell you anything. Small particles that get suspended in the oil will be caught by the filter and won't show up when draining it. The bigger pieces will fall down into some crevasses and get suck there and won't drain. The only way to tell is to pull the oil pan off and check it for debris. Any knocking like you describe along with the low oil warning is problem.

If you've got a water mix in the oil, that's a separate issue. Water in the oil from a failed head gasket shouldn't cause knocking. Head gasket issues are troublesome to diagnose and not every failure does the same thing. I've dealt with a head gasket failure that only caused overheating and boiling coolant when the revs were real high. The higher compression pushed the air into the cooling system with causes the pressure to drop and the coolant to boil and overheat. There was no water pulled into through the gasket and into the oil. A small warp in the head or gasket or a small crack in it will do that. If you're not experiencing other symptoms of that, it may not be related to the head gasket and that shouldn't cause low oil pressure and knocking.

First thing you need to do is drop the oil pan. Once you confirm there are no metal shards in there, then you can move to the other things.
 

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I don't know your mechanical aptitude so to speak, when you say the oil is a little high? Has the bike stood for a length of time and is it directly upright and level? Where on the glass is the oil level? Is the airbox stock and plumed normally? ie, crank case breather to airbox and a drain tube to ground?Was there oil in the airbox? What are the plugs like? Have you kept them in order since you removed and kept them contamination free? Lets see a picture of those please? Is the bike running at normal temperature? When you say the middle bolt is that on the timing gear cover?? Does the bike burn oil and or does it smoke cold, hot, or just underload maybe? What colour inside the exhaust itself? Is it visibly oily, black or any other off normal colouring?? How is the coolant level?? Is the coolant clean or contaminated with oil?
 

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Coolant is clean. No oil in coolant. Dropped the oil pan and there is not a single speck of debrise in it. Yes it would be the timing gear bolt. Now its even worse. It almost seems like no oil is being pumped. When i tried to start it the knocking is louder, it wont stay idling, it smokes white smoke from the tail pipe and the engine and it smells of sulfur.
 

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Obe more thing. Before it starts it backfires. A small pop here and there and right before it starts one loud pop. Could it be that since that bolt fell out it just jumped time. Im going to check it today and will let you know.
 

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Based on what your reply, its not good. its burning oil, so now you have to work out why? Coolant is clean that just means no oil is getting in it, it will back fire and pop because oil in the chamber will retard the detenation, no the timing has not jumped! i believe the oil pump is working fine but you have no oil pressure because the head gasket or a warped head is pissing oil out into one or more chambers and into the oil drain way prematurely. Unfortunately this has caused probably big end or main bearing issue.The very least i think you should do now is pull the head and have a look, but either way the knock needs finding and i believe the only way is to split the motor!!!
 

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I had a feeling. Thank you. Diagnosing issues is not my strong point. I can mechanically fix anything. I had a strong feeling it was going to take me splitting the case. Good news its not my first case split and i do have the factory service manual. Bad news is ive never done one on a bike like this. I figure ill step by step the manual and i should be okay. Thank you again. Please keep an eye on my post incase i have questons since i have a regular job it may take me some time but i know the sooner i get it done the better. Also what about cleaning it? Is there anything i should or should not do? I know on my el camino there were certain things that were best to leave uncleaned due to wear. Thank you again. I will keep updating my post.
 

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I pretty much agree with maichael4012 on that. The only other thing that it might be is a busted piston ring. If the piston is pumping the oil from the crankcase into the cylinder, it would be burning and smoking. It would also explain the noise as the piston is rocking slightly. You'd be running poorly from low compression though. Either way, pulling the head is the next step to look more into it.
 

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I had a feeling. Thank you. Diagnosing issues is not my strong point. I can mechanically fix anything. I had a strong feeling it was going to take me splitting the case. Good news its not my first case split and i do have the factory service manual. Bad news is ive never done one on a bike like this. I figure ill step by step the manual and i should be okay. Thank you again. Please keep an eye on my post incase i have questons since i have a regular job it may take me some time but i know the sooner i get it done the better. Also what about cleaning it? Is there anything i should or should not do? I know on my el camino there were certain things that were best to leave uncleaned due to wear. Thank you again. I will keep updating my post.
Me, personally taking this realistically, i would drop the motor and get it on a bench full stop. These are high revving high performance engines and you just cannot take chances. It's a full strip down inspection and measure, if you are methodical and don't cut corners you will have an engine just like new that will inspire confidence and last the life of a new one again. The workshop manuals are good and cover everything. Tools needed as long as they are a fair quality are fairly standard, for sure reasonable quality torque wrenches are a must, its measuring tools, vernier, micrometers dial gauges bore gauges etc that can run up the cost if you don't have access to them. And i think a new thread titled something like "My First 10R Engine Rebuild Chime In" should get people interested! I feel sorry for you Bro!!
 

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I was just glad to get her back. She was stolen and gone for a month. She came back with no fairings except the front and the back, crudely painted black, no seats and had been laid down on a high speed chase. I rode her around for about a week and then the problem started. I dont mind doing the work. Just sucks i have to. I like the ides of the thread. I think i will start it. It will also help to keep me motivated to do it. Looks like im in for the long haul. Does anyone know where i can get parts at a reasonable price? Thanks again.
 

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Update. Took entire engine apart. Pistons and rods are fine, piston rings are good, no bent valves. When I went to take off the oil pump I was having issues getting to 2 of the bolts so I removed the other side of the pump where the anti freeze lines run and 3 pebbles dropped out. Makes sense now. It's explains all my issues. Not sure how those got in there but I just got her back from being stolen so who knows.
 

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Uh, that's good to hear, but not something that would be at the top of the list to check first. Wow. So, basically the bike was laid down and the side cover got cracked. They replaced the side cover without cleaning all the gravel out of the motor first. And then you're left dealing with it. At least that's my theory. At least you found the root of the issue from the looks of it.
 
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