Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just picked up a used Ohlins TTX. The guy I bought it from didn't have much information on it, but from the research I've done it appears to be set up to run in conjunction with the Dan Kyle link. There is a sticker on the shock which indicates the internal valves are C37, R5. The spring has the following marks: 21040-36/105 L2213

I weigh around 195 without gear. My bike currently has the OEM link. I do mostly street riding but am starting to get more into the track. What I want to know is if I need to get the Kyle link (or the Attack link) to run the shock as it is currently set up, or if I can change the spring and run it with the OEM link? If a spring change is viable, what spring would I need?

Any help, guidance or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
That spring will be perfect for you. I am 170 lbs wo gear and I run a 100 which suits me perfect. You should be able to obtain the correct sag with that spring. Put the shock on the bike and JAM. Don't get all caught up in the hype. Test out the shock in some good canyons or the track. I am sure you will be pleased. If you have to get into the valving, it is easy to access it. The shock is probably stock but who knows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,632 Posts
The spring you have is good for 140-160 lbs in gear with the OEM link. With the OEM 2012 Link and 195 w/o gear you will likely need a 120Nm spring. The valving you have installed is also for the Kyle Racing 5% Link and while it will work it will not be optimal for the OEM link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,632 Posts
That actually looks like the 5% linkage for >180 which btw is what riders of all weights ended up favoring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok great. Thank you for the help. I'll probably go ahead and purchase the link as well then. Is the spring currently on the TTX good for my weight with the Kyle link or will that likely need changed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,632 Posts
You are right on the border of one spring rate to another. I would definitely try the 105 you have with the new linkage before purchasing the 110. Some riders like the lighter spring with more preload.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
You are right on the border of one spring rate to another. I would definitely try the 105 you have with the new linkage before purchasing the 110. Some riders like the lighter spring with more preload.
I'm the same weight as the OP and use the 105N spring with the link on my 2011. I get 27mm of rear sag with zero preload (minimum installed). I run a fast expert pace and it works great. My bike is pretty light - lithium battery, kit harness, all bs removed. Anyway, I think the 105N will be right on the money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
I'm the same weight as the OP and use the 105N spring with the link on my 2011. I get 27mm of rear sag with zero preload (minimum installed). I run a fast expert pace and it works great. My bike is pretty light - lithium battery, kit harness, all bs removed. Anyway, I think the 105N will be right on the money.
There it is.......hard data. Not, I think this and I think that. Go out and test. That is the only way to find out what works or what does not work. In addition to this, with race sag in the 25 to 30mm ballpark, you should have 5-15mm free sag. This will tell you if you have the correct spring installed.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top