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What are the advantages going with aftermarket steel sprockets vs stock OEM? Just purchased a 1st Gen that is geared 16 front, I believe 43 rear. I want to go back to stock 17/39 gearing. Looking to replace my sprockets and chain shortly. Seems like everyone goes aftermarket sprockets. Just want to know why stock OEM aren't used more often? Just going to be using the bike on the street to commute and blast around, so no track use here. Any insight would be helpful.
 

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What are the advantages going with aftermarket steel sprockets vs stock OEM? Just purchased a 1st Gen that is geared 16 front, I believe 43 rear. I want to go back to stock 17/39 gearing. Looking to replace my sprockets and chain shortly. Seems like everyone goes aftermarket sprockets. Just want to know why stock OEM aren't used more often? Just going to be using the bike on the street to commute and blast around, so no track use here. Any insight would be helpful.
When most riders regear or put new chain and sprockets it's the cheaper way to go to get the same OEM Quality, ecspecially when it comes to EK chains.
The OEM and aftermarket sprockets are close to the same price but most riders are looking for a bit more acceleration with new gearing. No one usually goes with factory gearing when replacing chain and sprockets. The aftermarket companies have a huge selection of sprocket sizes.
The gen4 10 uses the same gearing also, so to save yourself a lot of money look for "race takeoff" sprockets. Usually with less then 100-200 miles on them.
 

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I prefer the OEM front sprocket as they have the rubber piece to help reduce vibes. FYI the Z1000 front sprocket is 16T so you can always have an OEM front no matter the size, it will be a 525 though...

Rear sprocket, I go aftermarket steel just based on the fact that I like the design and color options better. I have the Black Vortex steel rear with black Lightech anodized alum nylon locking nuts

ImageUploadedByMotorcycle1426208992.050247.jpg
 

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BTW, I finally ordered a 16T Z1000 sprocket. Here's a pic with the part # since not every year has this size.

P/N: 13144-1320
 

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Has anyone installed a 16T OEM sprocket from a Z1000?
I was going to install this weekend but noticed the inner teeth were wider and would possibly misalign the chain.
The washer barely stays on, but can still be utilized.
 

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There's enough sidewards play in the chain where a slight misalignment like that pictured isn't going to cause any issues. When there's talk of misaligning the chain/sprockets, it's usually the rear being cocked to one side and not running inline and parallel to the drive sprocket. The small lateral offset on the drive sprocket pictured here is not a big deal. As long as the washer grabs the splines on the output shaft and you can bend it over the nut to retain it, it will be fine.

The Z1000 sprocket has a shoulder on it that the ZX-10 sprocket doesn't. That's probably because of the shaft size on the Z1000 that's different. Everything in the pics looks OK to me. I'd have no issues running that setup.
 

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Thanks Sky. I try not to overanalyze these types of things but it's always good to ask the question to be sure.
 

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Thread lock and bend the washer or else it'll walk off the bike... lol. mine did just that and I still have no clue as to how that happened.
 

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Thread lock and bend the washer or else it'll walk off the bike... lol. mine did just that and I still have no clue as to how that happened.

As the bike accelerates it naturally wants to tighten the nut as the shaft spins into it. When you decelerate the inertia on the nut tries to loosen and unscrew it. That's why the washer is there to keep that from happening
 
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