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Discussion Starter #1
was bored today at work and skeeming thru the web I was looking into aftermarket rear shocks for my gen 4. now my question is.... what is the difference between the KA931 and the KA036? :dontknow:
 

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call ohlins and ask..im sure they have an 800 #..Before you spend the $ look around here..I saw that the gen 4 gas chambers leak and are fixable with revalveing and so on for less than a ohlins..
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
call ohlins and ask..im sure they have an 800 #..Before you spend the $ look around here..I saw that the gen 4 gas chambers leak and are fixable with revalveing and so on for less than a ohlins..
i talked to some 1 at a local shop (piper performance) that does racetech stuff, and had been considering doing the shims, revalving, respring route or what ever they reccomended... the problem with that is im about 230 pounds. racetech spring calculator recommends 12.216kg/mm and i think the highest they show on there site is (RT SK SPR 58.2x178 11.6kg-114N)

looking at k-tech a while back i think they have heavier springs.... i dont remember
 

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going out on a limb to say one has a fixed preload adjuster and the other is remote. Go with the remote.
thats kind of what i was thinking as well. thanks im look into a couple alternatives for the rear and when it comes time ill call ohlins line and confirm before i do spend any $$$
 

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All show and all go 10r
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I tried looking for a difference in the ohlins manuals but I came up with nothing. The are listed as the same shock type exact same part number.
 

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The remote is a waste of $ unless you want the bling or do alot of different tracks where your resetting preload

The spring rate calculator is a good guide line but not always gonna be a 100% correct...Your body type makes a diff to..For example some guys that weigh as much as i do needed their fork springs upped a smidge cause they have a longer upper torso,me i have a more stumpy type body so more of my weight sits on the rear and my fork springs were fine..Same goes for rear..Then tires will make a lil diff in combo with shock set up along with temps where and how you ride ect..
Best bet is to actually call and talk to a suspension man rather than buy based on a online calculator..This book came highly recommended to me by elka but i never remember to get it cause i have a inhouse racer who helps me understand some of this stuff.. Amazon.com: Sportbike Suspension Tuning (9781893618459): Andrew Trevitt: Books
 

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The remote is a waste of $ unless you want the bling or do alot of different tracks where your resetting preload

The spring rate calculator is a good guide line but not always gonna be a 100% correct...Your body type makes a diff to..For example some guys that weigh as much as i do needed their fork springs upped a smidge cause they have a longer upper torso,me i have a more stumpy type body so more of my weight sits on the rear and my fork springs were fine..Same goes for rear..Then tires will make a lil diff in combo with shock set up along with temps where and how you ride ect..
Best bet is to actually call and talk to a suspension man rather than buy based on a online calculator..This book came highly recommended to me by elka but i never remember to get it cause i have a inhouse racer who helps me understand some of this stuff.. Amazon.com: Sportbike Suspension Tuning (9781893618459): Andrew Trevitt: Books
I guess im just gonna end up going up to cliff piper. i believe he is a good suspension man from what ive heard in my area and he is an official racetech service center. might end up just revalve/respring the stocker. see what he has to say will let ya know
 

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All show and all go 10r
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I have alway read and been told buying a new shock is far more cost effective based on the increased performance than re working the stock shock.
 

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Craig-sez is absolutely right about race tech. I went with their online specs when rebuilding mine, I even spoke to someone there for advice on stacking the shims and I wound up with pretty stiff forks for my liking. They're much better but need. Some work. Also I'm 260 lbs now and the spring I got from them are too stiff, unknown they carry stuff for your weight. Honestly, I have an ohlins rear shock and race tech internals(gold valve rebound and compression and new springs and I feel like I have more adjustment with the forks, racetech does a great job for what it costs!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have alway read and been told buying a new shock is far more cost effective based on the increased performance than re working the stock shock.
if i can get away with redoing the stocker for 700 or less, i could justify that then spending well over 1000 on an ohlins or such. i guess it depends on what u want to do. i want to be able to track day the weekends, still agressive street riding, but im no professional, however the rear as it is from factory feels very unstable to me. i dont like it at all. just gonna talk to a suspension guru and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Craig-sez is absolutely right about race tech. I went with their online specs when rebuilding mine, I even spoke to someone there for advice on stacking the shims and I wound up with pretty stiff forks for my liking. They're much better but need. Some work. Also I'm 260 lbs now and the spring I got from them are too stiff, unknown they carry stuff for your weight. Honestly, I have an ohlins rear shock and race tech internals(gold valve rebound and compression and new springs and I feel like I have more adjustment with the forks, racetech does a great job for what it costs!
thanks for the info im really leaning towards a rebuild from racetech
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i got a quote

"To do the complete Race Tech setup on your rear shock runs about $650.00 to $700.00
That includes the Gold Valve,spring,oil,seal,Rebound Seperator Valve and labor. This quote is w/the shock off the bike........"

does this sound good? its about half the cost of the ohlins ttx and i think it might be just what im looking for out of my suspension. if any 1 knows of any other aftermarket shocks cheaper then the ohlins ill look into it but i figured for the cost it seems to be reasonable.
 

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i got a quote

"To do the complete Race Tech setup on your rear shock runs about $650.00 to $700.00
That includes the Gold Valve,spring,oil,seal,Rebound Seperator Valve and labor. This quote is w/the shock off the bike........"

does this sound good? its about half the cost of the ohlins ttx and i think it might be just what im looking for out of my suspension. if any 1 knows of any other aftermarket shocks cheaper then the ohlins ill look into it but i figured for the cost it seems to be reasonable.
You don't need a gold valve. A lot of tunners will rework the stock valves, give you a new spring, better oil and a custom shim stack for around $300.

If your spending $700 you'll prolly lose less than that on reselling an Ohlins shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
You don't need a gold valve. A lot of tunners will rework the stock valves, give you a new spring, better oil and a custom shim stack for around $300.

If your spending $700 you'll prolly lose less than that on reselling an Ohlins shock.
Do Not spend $700 to Re'work your stocker.

so ur thinking i should either just respring and shim? or just go ohlins or other aftermarket....?
ill pull the bitch off right now and order a spring and go get some washers dont tempt me hahha
in need of guidance..... please
 

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so ur thinking i should either just respring and shim? or just go ohlins or other aftermarket....?
ill pull the bitch off right now and order a spring and go get some washers dont tempt me hahha
in need of guidance..... please
Reshim means to change the configuration of metal disks in your shock that control the damping so it suits the new spring. To have a pro do this costs around $300, good for street and trackdays.

If you buy aftermarket, when (if) you sell it, you will take a loss but prolly not to the tune of $700 so you come out ahead over the Race Tech.

Street or street and a few track days a year, custom built Penske double. But once you reach a fast pace on the track the TTX is better.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks man. Im in the market for an ohlins now. Trying to get a good price on one. Thanks for the info rep sent all around
 
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