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Discussion Starter #1
Alright this one threw me for a loop. So I had my bike out the other day, ran fine, other then I accidentally unhooked the sensor for the emissions by the charcoal canister.

(Back story on that, back in October my body came off on that side and tore off the charcoal canister. My body pieces will be here tomorrow so I have a Schnitz flash and had the pairs disabled and thought I could unhook the sensor.)

I unhooked the sensor and threw a check engine light. Not a big deal because I knew what caused it and I’ve still got to get my recall done so I was going to have them clear it. I can’t really ride it right now because I haven’t renewed my plates yet.

Fast forward to day. I just got done changing my clutch so I go to start the bike to warm it up for an oil change. Turn the key on and you hear the pump come on and primes for about 3 seconds then you hear the pump quiet for a split second and then start again. I figured maybe it was because my low fuel light was on when I last started it last week. So I proceed to try and fire it up and it cranks with no fire and the whole dash starts to flash. Tried it a couple times to no avail. So now I’m trying to figure out why it’s not starting and bring the codes up on the dash to see what the issue is.

Electrical side of it I have a Schnitz flash and a PC5. Battery has plenty of juice. Let’s hear some ideas
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where is the ecu fuse located? I checked the 3 fuses under the tail by the battery, they were good
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Checked all 3, they were good, but switched them out. No change. Checked the fuse box up front. Switched out the ignition fuse. It looked good. No change
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update, so you turn the key on, it will Cycle the pump for about 3 seconds. Looking at the my PC5 power light is green. So the system almost like resets after the cycle. There is what I’m assuming is a relay on the right side of the tail by the ecu and I’m assuming the kds hook up. When the system “resets” it clicks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Checked the tip over sensor, switched it out with the one off my gen 4. No change. Pulled the tank and checked for pinch lines, there was none. Pulled the air filter to make sure there was no obstructions, I’m at my wits end.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also double checked the crank sensor plug, injector plugs, and the ground right by the shock. All was good. Still no change.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I ordered a OBD 2 to KDS cable and paid for 2 day air so hopefully I can get this squared away before the weekend.
 

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Personally if I had to remove the tank, the first thing I would have done is remove the PC5, or make sure my PC5 is on the latest firmware.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought about that too, the one thing I’m worried is taking that posi tap off having a hole in the wire. If I just remove the wire from the ecu would it remove power from the power commander and still run the injectors with the harness still on? Or does it need to be fully removed?
 

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I thought about that too, the one thing I’m worried is taking that posi tap off having a hole in the wire. If I just remove the wire from the ecu would it remove power from the power commander and still run the injectors with the harness still on? Or does it need to be fully removed?
I'd completely take the PC5 out of the loop. Sorry that doesn't answer your specific question, I have no experience with PC5. That said, seeing your dash flash like that reminds me of what my bike does when I am flashing my ECU via bike side harness. This is why I suggest looking at PC5.

That said, if i understand Power Commanders, there is nothing that plugs into the ECU, so that posi tap you are speaking about is just to get 12v to the PC??? But if that wire (without knowing it's purpose on the ECU) is broken on the ecu side of the tap, that too might be a problem. I don't know man, I'm just a backyard mechanic like you. But yeah, if you already have access, disconnect your bike injector plugs from the PC and plug back into the bike. I guess you can just leave the posi tap, but you might want to test voltage on the wire on the ECU side if you still have an issue. Maybe the wire is broken and the ecu is not getting the 12v it needs from that wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE.

After issues with Graves I finally got my KDS cord. I had 4 codes when I originally scanned it and were from stuff I had unplugged when I was working on it. Cleared the codes and the dash stopped flashing, but the check engine light was still on but ran the scan again no codes. Now I have it on a battery charger and was cranking it over with no start. So the dash started to flash again, I run the codes and I get the crank sensor code again, figured the first time was I had it unplugged. But the whole electrical system is still running and “resetting” after a couple seconds like in the video posted above. I’m thinking now this is more a bad battery issue then the crank sensor due to the bike “resetting”. I’m just surprised if the battery is already junk. I bought the bike new off the show room floor last June and it’s only got 2k miles on it. But I’ve seen stranger things in the race car. So I’m going to run the battery to the auto parts store and have it tested. I’m hoping that’s my issue. I don’t know if the sensor would be covered under the warranty or even how long or what the factory warranty covered.
 

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When plastic came off you tweaked at least one point in the harness. If the 5 is configured like the g4, tank plastic, left side, upper ripped off. Start sorting right when you noted the results of your creation that produced the plastic problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When plastic came off you tweaked at least one point in the harness. If the 5 is configured like the g4, tank plastic, left side, upper ripped off. Start sorting right when you noted the results of your creation that produced the plastic problem.
It’s was the right side that ripped off, lower side fairing and the upper fairing at the headlight. But I found the issue tonight. Somehow I got the crank wiring pinched between the clutch cover and cut the ground. Spliced it and the “reset” quit and it rode like a top! Something so simple!
 
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