[mnetwork]

I just went to start my bike (rode it two weeks ago). It started right up and then missed and died after a minute or two. Couldn't start it after. Narrowed it down to fuel injectors not firing. If I manually apply voltage to them while the fuel line has pressure they click and spray. I did that for all four, tried to start, and it ran for a second because of the fuel that came out. I have re-seated many connections and am at a loss. As stated spark and fuel pump are working. No FI light/symbol. Bike is in neutral, so kickstand/clutch switch are not part of this. Tilt sensor would be causing an FI symbol when cranking (I also tested the sensor output voltage and it is around 4.05v which is what it should be). I would think a crank/cam sensor would both throw an FI light AND prevent it from running at all like it does when I apply voltage to the fuel injectors.

 

[100KNinja]

How did you narrow it down to injectors?

 

[gaz]

inj signal from ecu test- every injector has two wires, one common colored with other inj's, usually white/red stripe, and other wire odd colored from other inj's. ignition switch on sends a positive 12v+ signal to inj's common colored wire while system primes, then shuts off until start button pressed and becomes constant for running. odd colored wires recieve pulsed negative ground signal from ecu to complete inj circuit to fire. with a test light probe each inj's common wire for positive signal while system priming switch just turned on by grounding test light to negative scource. all inj's powered in prime cycle, check for timed neg inj signal by spinning engine over probing each inj odd wire with test light on positive scource, u will not see a bright flash in test light, many times more of a dim flicker, thats good enough, if there u do not have ecu/inj signal problem. some led test lights dont work well for this, cheap bulb style always works. disconnect fuel pump or coil connections as engine should spin/not crank being tested. bottom 4 injs' on 08 are only ones activated starting. im betting ur problem lies in the common junction ground/common junction positive boxes taped in wiring harness on left side. always been the culprit on these problems for me, fixed several.

 

[Boxtradamus]

inj signal from ecu test- every injector has two wires, one common colored with other inj's, usually white/red stripe, and other wire odd colored from other inj's. ignition switch on sends a positive 12v+ signal to inj's common colored wire while system primes, then shuts off until start button pressed and becomes constant for running. odd colored wires recieve pulsed negative ground signal from ecu to complete inj circuit to fire. with a test light probe each inj's common wire for positive signal while system priming switch just turned on by grounding test light to negative scource. all inj's powered in prime cycle, check for timed neg inj signal by spinning engine over probing each inj odd wire with test light on positive scource, u will not see a bright flash in test light, many times more of a dim flicker, thats good enough, if there u do not have ecu/inj signal problem. some led test lights dont work well for this, cheap bulb style always works. disconnect fuel pump or coil connections as engine should spin/not crank being tested. bottom 4 injs' on 08 are only ones activated starting. im betting ur problem lies in the common junction ground/common junction positive boxes taped in wiring harness on left side. always been the culprit on these problems for me, fixed several.

There were actually 6 periods in that post lol. I cant believe I counted them all. Well done gaz.