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Discussion Starter #61
Does it matter which side of the spring you put the shim? Threaded side or?? Thanks
 

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If it were me, considering a shop towel was left in the motor.

Get, borrow, use, whatever it takes, a remote mechanical gauge. They are about 20.00. You can install a T at the block or just install the gauge without the OEM sending unit. They are BSPP 1/8" tapered thread. Find out what the pressure is fully hot at idle and 4000RPM. If you are in specification, run it. If the shop towel took out #2 rod bearing, or at least in failure mode, replace the bearing(s) that are affected. A #2 rod bearing failure will cause you to purchase a new/used crank. The cases can be split with the top end on. The cost to change 2 shells is about $16.00 + the tube of hondabond/yamahabond + new rod bolts per rod.
Hopefully, you will have enough pressure and you will have peace of mind or... sell it and...move on.
 

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The shim has to go on the spring, at the opposite end of the mounting threads, just under the circlip. Make sure the shim is big enough that it cannot cock in the bore and come out.
 

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Yes, it does matter. You're tensioning the spring so the port opens at higher pressure. You should not be restricting the flow by putting any shim on the end where the oil flows through it. So it should be between the circlip and the spring plate. That's on the bottom of it away from the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Cool deal ill do that. Great advice with the gauge. I think i actually have one still from my old foxbody days. Ill continue to update when its all back together. Ive actually learned alot here!! I hate reading threads someone starts asking for help then never follows up. Thanks again!!!
 

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Cool deal ill do that. Great advice with the gauge. I think i actually have one still from my old foxbody days. Ill continue to update when its all back together. Ive actually learned alot here!! I hate reading threads someone starts asking for help then never follows up. Thanks again!!!
Please do. I hate that too! Gotta have some closure to things. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Hey guys just wanted to update everyone. Got the parts in and installed today. Fired the bike up and STILL had to burp the oil filter even after I saturated the new oil pump with oil before installing. As soon as the system burped the pressure shot up to 40psi cold. Let it run for a little bit and after warming up some (not too long as clutch cover didnt have gasket yet and was dripping a little oil) and pressure was still about 34 psi. Oil pressure increases with rpm as it should. Bike sounds great as well, like a smooth sewing machine. I will get the clutch cover gasket on tomorrow and get everything buttoned up and take it for a ride. I am so relieved and grateful!! Thank God!!

EDIT I did want to make a note to upgrade the gen 2 oil pump with the gen 3. Its not a 100% bolt it. The pin that drives the small (internal) gear of the oil pump had to be ground down slightly. The slot in the gen 3 pump is not as long as the gen 2 and the pin wouldnt fit. Grind a very small amount off (little bit at a time) and test fit until it fits snug in the gear. Make sure if fits snug as that is how the oil pump is driven so its important that there isnt any slop.

Thanks again guys for all the help and sticking with me through this!!!! Also installed a new stator and will test that this week to make sure its working correctly. Hopefully the next time you see me post will be either helping someone else or saying how much I love this bike!!
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Well looks like i did not luck out on this. Took the bike out for about 2 hrs and developed a tapping sound at about 3500 rpm and up. Was hoping it may have been loose clutch basket springs as mine were all loose. Tightened them up and also welded the rivets on the backside of the basket. Put it all back together and sound is still there. Talked to a buddy who builds and races these and sound it sounds like a rod bearing. Doesnt make the noise at all when cold or at idle hot or cold. When it gets hot the noise begins at about 3500. When you blip the throttle to about 4000 off idle you can hear a "rattle". Dropped the oil and there is a little bearing materiel (although not very much). He said hopefully i caught it in time and havent damaged the crank. Not real happy right now. Have ridden this bike a total of about 4 hrs and the engine is coming out. I havent even ridden it enough to know if i even like the thing. But i am forced to either fix this engine or put in another because it is about worthless to make any money back parting it out. I am not going to dump a problem on someone else either. I am a Christian and just wont do that. Won't do an insurance claim on it either. I am hoping to send him the engine to have him go through it and check the crank etc and see what all it needs. He has a good crank for the bike if i need one. When my son first got his gsxr 1000 race bike there was alot of bearing material in the oil. That thing doesn't make a sound and he beats the snot out of it at the drag strip. Mine had hardly anything in the oil compared to his. This just really sucks. It will prob be a while but i will report back after the engine is torn down.
 

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Sorry to hear you're still dealing with this issue. Oil starvation will cause this sort of thing to happen though. Better look into and figure out what the really issue is though. I will say, a rod or crank journal bearing should be more of a "knock" at all RPMs when running, not a rattle that develops when hot and at a certain speed. Honestly, based on the description it sounds more like the cam chain is a bit loose and the rattle develops when the chain gets hot a stretches a bit. It will slap the guide and make a rattle noise. That would be easier to check without pulling the motor and at least eliminate that as a potential culprit.

Keep at it. You'll love the bike once you can get some more seat time! Tough situation though.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Thanks bro. Its def not the cct. It has a manual one and I even loosened it until it start rattling then tightened it back up to where it was. It only makes the "rattling" sound when you blip the throttle quickly. It def sounds more like a knock, not as deep as a knock that a big v8 makes but not a tick (high pitched like an exhaust leak or cct or valve). I tried to load a video but it was too big. Also tried to load it onto youtube but I am in the country with only satellite internet available and it was taking forever. I am pretty certain its a rod bearing. Using a screwdriver (as a stethoscope) I can pinpont the problem around the waterpump area. I can hear it at the back part of the engine with my bare ear but with the screwdriver it sounds like its in the bottom end (loudest at the waterpump area). Dont think there is much of a choice but to pull it apart. Dont want to hurt it any further.
 

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This is not a big deal if you can do the work yourself. This type of failure can be repaired in under 2 weeks(need parts). More than likely you lost #2 rod bearing, #2 rod, and the crank. You will need new rod bearings but the crank bearings should be OK. If you want to know for sure if it's a rod bearing do this:
Pull one plug wire connection at a time, at the coil on plug. Start the bike and see if the noise goes away. The lack of combustion should allow the piston to be pulled around the engine strokes and not rattle.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Thanks brother. I've already drain the oil it started disconnecting some stuff to get the engine ready to be pulled. So I'm just going to go ahead and pull it. I don't want to run it like this. I'll keep the thread updated with what I find along with any questions I may have LOL. Thanks again guys
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Ok guys here is where i am. Got the cases split. Here is #2 rod bearing. Looks pretty rough to me. Honestly i have never been this far into an engine before so not real sure where to go from here. How/can i just replace the rod bearings? What is the process to do that if its possible? Do i need to go ahead and pull the cam chain and remove the crank? I need a valve cover gasket anyway. And ill go ahead and check clearances while im in there. Do i need to pull pistons? Never done that before either lol. Hopefully you guys can walk me through this as my buddy had some personal things come up and isnt available.
 

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I can try providing some insight on the teardown when I'm not on my mobile device and have an actual keyboard.

Honestly, that bearing does look pretty rough. It's scored heavily. That's relatively straight forward to replace. The problem is that crank journal. That should be repaired. That involves pulling the crank out, welding up the journal, precision ground down to the proper spec, checked for straightness, and high speed balanced. It's involved and expensive and you can't do that yourself. Once that's done, then the rod bearings have to be matched/sized to it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #78
The pic of the crank still has the bearing on it. The bearing isnt in the cap. Not sure if you knew that or not as i know the pics arent the best. It was getting dark and my flash doesnt work. I guess i should pull the bearing to see the actual journal. I just didnt want to pull the bearing without knowing how to. Thanks brother. Appreciate any insight. I hate using my phone too but have to sometimes with where i live.
 

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That's very sad reading and I am saddened for you. Other folks have at this point just swapped out bearings and been very lucky, but for me it's a complete strip clean measure and rebuild. Even those small particles from shell bearings can in a short space of time ruin other critical parts. If you were this side I would send you a deal on Crank rods and pistons all with in spec bearings and rings, which you could possibly pick up over there for around 300 US, there are good reputable breakers around, that is probably your cheapest option, (obviously you would check over the replacement before installing) that way matching sizes of bearing etc to crank and rods is already done. What ever you do I wish you luck and dont take short cuts even to quickly sell on.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Yes it does truly suck! Everything you are describing is above my skill level. Honestly if I got another crank etc I wouldnt know how to measure them to make sure it is good. At this point I dont have much choice but to try to swap the bearings and hope I am one of the lucky ones. What is the process for swapping the bearings and "cleaning" the engine as much as possible? If I end up being unlucky I will most likely try to source another engine. Thanks guys
 
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