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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK I tore the head off of a 2007 zx10, the cam gear bolts had broke, so it had bent valves, I replaced the head, valves etc, The first time I started it it wouldn't start, turned out to be a loose connection under the tank. Anyway I felt as though I had a couple loose valves, so I readjusted them. I went to start it, would not start, checked the connection again, good, checked the fire, no fire. I found a sensor down on the left side of the motor, green with a black stripe not connected, but it ran so that could not be preventing it from starting. I also found a Black with a yellow stipe and a green with a white strip coming out of the harness not connected. any help would be greatly appreciated, I want to test the crank position sensor, but I cant locate it, I tested the cam position sensor, it ohmed out to 417 ohms. thank you
 

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what gen? I'm not a tech guy, but g4's have what I believe you're talking about on left plastic next to tank. Remove that plastic and you notice what I think you're concerned about. If don't have the g4, then just wait for the tech guys to get here. They all know, but takes awhile to catch attention. Oh, Sky watches closely. So just wait a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what gen? I'm not a tech guy, but g4's have what I believe you're talking about on left plastic next to tank. Remove that plastic and you notice what I think you're concerned about. If don't have the g4, then just wait for the tech guys to get here. They all know, but takes awhile to catch attention. Oh, Sky watches closely. So just wait a bit.
its an 07, i put a new head on the bike, it initial started sounded fine then cut off, no fire to the plugs I was trying to find the crank position sensor, but then i ran into the 10 pin connector going to the ecu, with no power in it at alll thank you for the help
 

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Cam position sensor runs through the ten pin throttle body connector. If the cam sensor is out, down or missing the ecu will run on its last known position (memory) until the ignition is turned off. I'm not sure if you explained your sequence of events correctly. It's really unlikely to be crank sensor but check it too. But why no FI code?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cam position sensor runs through the ten pin throttle body connector. If the cam sensor is out, down or missing the ecu will run on its last known position (memory) until the ignition is turned off. I'm not sure if you explained your sequence of events correctly. It's really unlikely to be crank sensor but check it too. But why no FI code?
I believe it had an F1 code
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
do you know the color of the wires to the cam position sensor, also thee is a sensor on the left side of the motor, down low by the crank, it has 1 wire green with a blk stripe, it is disconnected
 

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Well what's the code? That's your go to issue! I can't remember the colours of my head just now, but if your left is the Generator side then that's your side stand switch yupp that would stop it running, if your left is the timing case side then that is your crank sensor that also will stop it running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well what's the code? That's your go to issue! I can't remember the colours of my head just now, but if your left is the Generator side then that's your side stand switch yupp that would stop it running, if your left is the timing case side then that is your crank sensor that also will stop it running.
I cant get it to pull up a code, I was told you have to start the bike for a few minutes first then pull the codes up, I have tried it, but to no avail. There is another sensor like nearly behind the front sprocket? do u know what that is for? is it the kickstand sensor ? there is on on the very front of the motor, down low, it has one green wire, it was not connected, but the bike run with out it being connected.
 

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You don’t need to start the engine to pull codes.

Check the workshop manual. It has many of the answers you are asking about.

Sensor near the sprocket is likely the gear position sensorfor the gear indicator on your dash. At least that’s what it is on the gen4+
 

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Ahhh.....the old "F1" code. We don't talk much about the F1 code on here since those Formula 1 drivers are a bunch of hacks on 4 wheels.

You don't need to start the engine to read the code. It just needs to be active to see it. You can read all about it here:

The sensor by the counter shaft sprocket is the Speed Sensor. The one low on the front of the motor with 1 wire to it is called the "Oil Pressure Switch".
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok I found some wires that were damaged and repaired them. I got fire back to the plugs, went to try to start it, nothing, took the plugs out and they are dry as , well you know what, now the pump is coming on, I don't know what kind of pressure its pushing, Also I didn't have much gas in that tank so if there was water or trash it might have sucked it up, either that or, I found out today that the bike was very close to a fire, in fact some of the body parts were melted, are there any sensors that interrupt the fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I cant get it to pull up a code, I was told you have to start the bike for a few minutes first then pull the codes up, I have tried it, but to no avail. There is another sensor like nearly behind the front sprocket? do u know what that is for? is it the kickstand sensor ? there is on on the very front of the motor, down low, it has one green wire, it was not connected, but the bike run with out it being connected.
It appears to be indicating NO FUEL, but I hear the pump coming on. I am going to look at the injectors, to see if they are receiving a signal
 

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The sensors interrupting the fuel turn the pump off.

Fuel lines, fuel filter, pump, or injectors are all suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The sensors interrupting the fuel turn the pump off.

Fuel lines, fuel filter, pump, or injectors are all suspect.
Injectors have a signal, I put a little gas in the intake manifolds, and after a little bit it sounded as if it did try to start, I also notice a little smoke coming out of the two hole used to turn the motor over and the mark that lines up with the crank position sensor, would the small motor on top the valve cover be receiving a signal with just the key on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So my theory was that it must have got trash or water in the injectors when the fuel got low, right after the last time I started it, I guess I will need to back flush all the injectors and give it a shot.
 

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Injectors have a signal, I put a little gas in the intake manifolds, and after a little bit it sounded as if it did try to start, I also notice a little smoke coming out of the two hole used to turn the motor over and the mark that lines up with the crank position sensor, would the small motor on top the valve cover be receiving a signal with just the key on?
There is no motor on top of the valve cover. That's the air switching valve for the KLEEN system. It gets power with the ignition switch, but doesn't activate until commanded.

You got smoke out of the timing cover ports? That's not right. That's either from the starter clutch or the crank sensor. That's the only things in that area.
 

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The fire point makes entire situation tricky. That evidence needed out early for the tech guys to sort. If heat involved the techs will sort layers of problems. Not trying to be a downer, but pointing out a common problem here with tech problems not pointing out all history. Every wrench here would immediately sort the fire evidence then proceed from there.

My sense is that bike wants to run but you'll have to hand it over to rebuild tech guy. Those guys just are in a world of their own and are more valuable that their weight in gold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There is no motor on top of the valve cover. That's the air switching valve for the KLEEN system. It gets power with the ignition switch, but doesn't activate until commanded.

You got smoke out of the timing cover ports? That's not right. That's either from the starter clutch or the crank sensor. That's the only things in that area.
It actually does it when it starts, barely then shuts off
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The fire point makes entire situation tricky. That evidence needed out early for the tech guys to sort. If heat involved the techs will sort layers of problems. Not trying to be a downer, but pointing out a common problem here with tech problems not pointing out all history. Every wrench here would immediately sort the fire evidence then proceed from there.

My sense is that bike wants to run but you'll have to hand it over to rebuild tech guy. Those guys just are in a world of their own and are more valuable that their weight in gold.
The firing problem was the first issue, i got fire then it started to act like it was starving for gas, so I gave it some, now it is trying to start, just act like the timing is retarded, but its not.
 
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