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Gen4 '14 ZX10R ABS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone!

I just finished installing new brake pads, cleaning the calipers and installing the Venhill steel brake lines for the front brake on my 2014 ABS. Was tedious work but got it done. However, when I started to bleed the system, I couldn't get any fluid moving. Tried bleeding at both the calipers and the master cylinder too..all in vain. I wondered if the master cylinder conked off. So tried priming it by removing the lines and bolt from the m cylinder and closing the hole with my finger while pumping the lever. I was able to get some air and fluid moving.

Fit the lines back but still unable to get anything moving :( any help?
 

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Fit the lines back but still unable to get anything moving :( any help?
I think easiest way to prime the system would be like this. Get big syringe and some hose. Then put the hose from the syringe to caliper air screw and push brake fluid to caliper and system. You might need to pull brake lever little at the same time so that fluid goes trough master cylinder.
Anyway, that is usually easiest way to bleed difficult systems.
 

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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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You have to bleed the MC first. Don't worry about the calipers until you get the MC pushing some fluid. If you can pull the fluid down with a vacuum, that might be a bit easier. But the fact that you've got an ABS bike makes it all the more problematic. You've got longer lines and you have to push.pull all the fluid through the ABS module. Because you have an ABS system, not really sure why you added stainless lines to that as it won't help with the power or provide any added feel. But whatever.

If you don't have a vacuum bleeder, another easy trick to help it out is after you bleed the MC is to remove one of the lines from one of the calipers and do what you tried at the MC. Pinch the banjo between your thumb and forefinger at the end of the line. Pump the lever a few times. You've created a one-way check valve with your fingers that way. Each time you pump the lever, air will be pushed out around your fingers and they will seal it when the lever is released. That will help speed it up and get the fluid moving. You should drape a rag over your hand because once the fluid gets there, it will start to spray out a little. When the fluid comes out like that, bolt the line back up and do the same with another caliper. Once you have fluid down in the lines, you can use the bleed screw to get the remaining air out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyway, that is usually easiest way to bleed difficult systems.
Will give that a shot, thanks!

@SkyDork
Thanks for the reply. Mine is a 2014 and picked it up used. Was never really happy with the brakes and wanted to get it serviced properly so that its at least back to stock. Also wanted to rule out the line to be on the safer side so just went with steel :)

I'm gonna try your recommendations but had couple of questions.

1. The issues I'm facing are expected, right? Or could it be an installation error? Since I'm able to prime just the MC with the hose off, can I rule out a faulty MC? It was working fine untill the install.

2. Is it generally also difficult to bleed the MC of a dry ABS system? I can understand why the calipers are difficult but was surprised that the MC is too. I tried to bleed the MC but couldn't even when I could prime it 🤔
 

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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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1. The issues I'm facing are expected, right? Or could it be an installation error? Since I'm able to prime just the MC with the hose off, can I rule out a faulty MC? It was working fine untill the install.

2. Is it generally also difficult to bleed the MC of a dry ABS system? I can understand why the calipers are difficult but was surprised that the MC is too. I tried to bleed the MC but couldn't even when I could prime it 🤔
1. The issue is somewhat expected. It could also be an installation error. The lines have to be sealed, if you've got an opening that is letting air in it will never bleed. Yes, the MC is fine if it's working as described.

2. No, it's not really more difficult to bleed the MC on ABS. It should be the same. But it is generally more difficult to bleed a radial MC than anything. So I'd say it's either your technique or you're not giving it enough time.

I say it could be your technique because I have no idea how fast you're moving the lever, when you're opening the bleed screw during that, if you're doing this on the sidestand or rear stand, if the MC is angled weird, etc. Fluid flows downhill with gravity. If the bleed screw isn't the highest point in the system, you won't be bleeding much. ABS makes it all the more difficult because there is so much air in the system that you have to try to remove and the rigid lines route all over the place. Air pockets and bubbles will be everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quick update guys. So after a lot of attempts and with no immediate access to a vacuum bleeder, I decided to disconnect each joint 1 by 1 from the MC onwards and prime it by closing it with my finger.

Started with the MC, where the lines meet the steel pipe to the ABS pump, then where the line out of the pump meets the steel lines again, then the T spliter to each caliper. I would disconnect each of them, prime them by closing it with my finger, zip tie the brake pedal, tighten the lines back..kept doing this for each of the joints essentially bringing the fluid along with me all the time😅

It was all worth it coz everything is working now! Phew. There is a little more bleeding to be done to make it perfect but I've called it a day for now. Will leave the brake pedal compressed over night , ride for a few days and do a final bleed again.

TLDR:
GET A VACCUM BLEEDER IF YOU ARE DRYING THE SYSTEM!

else as you connect each line from the top, prime it as you go along. It's messy but yeah.


Thanks for the help guys!
 

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'16 ZX-10R KRT
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Glad to hear it worked for you. Problem solved! (y)
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Glad to hear that. What do you think about the steel brakelines? Worth it on the ABS model?
I will need sometime before I can determine that. I already do feel an improvement and a better feel but then that could also be because of the fresh fluid, cleaned calipers and rotors, new pads.

Once I've gotten a few miles on it ill surely update the thread with more feedback.

Quick note, overall the installation process is reasonably fine if you have the proper tools such a brake line/flare nut spanner and a vacuum bleeder.
 
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