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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Worth waiting for this....

So the water/meth injection kit from RB Racing finally showed up yesterday. It took a long goddamn time (ordered it Feb 10th), but the quality is as promised. Communication with these guys is non-existant, but they do eventually get your stuff done. They even reduced the price when I told them I didn't need a Hobb switch or LED... though I did not specifically ask them to do so. In the end they knocked 100 bucks off the list price. One look at the pictures and you can see why it was worth waiting for, though. All the connectos, switches, relays, & wires come with it... and they are all nice uncrimped weather-pack style stuff. It's not a plug-n-play set-up AT ALL, but that's exactly what I wanted.

The little guy draws 3 amps at peak (vs 10 for the bilge pump), and operates at 1000psi at my flow rate (vs 150ish for the other). The weight difference is staggering (like 5-7lbs I'd say). An the size difference... good grief.
 

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That WMI kit looks mint. Sure, it costs a pretty penny, but WMI is not something you want to cheap out on. I look forward to seeing your results, I know for a fact that you are going to be amazed by what it can do.
 

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Dont know what you do for a liven but with all that brain power happening i dont know why your not at a higher end performance shop..Build it on company dime..lol
 

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Discussion Starter #67
If I was in an area that had any sort of performance shop, I'd take a pay cut to work there. As it is, I'm 100 miles away from even a dyno.... lodged deep in Harley Country (they're not bad fellows for the most part, just not very performance minded). My life has been a little up/down/unstable for the last few years, but it's starting to come back together now. Once I have my ducks in a row again, I do plan on opening my own little side shop. Small CNC machines, anodizing, bike dyno/tuning, etc.... but I don't think my local economy can support it on it's own, at least not not with my limited business skills. That's a few years away at least.

In the mean time, I'm learning all sorts of neat stuff going fast and breaking my own toys. :badteeth: In all honesty I've only had one really big boo boo with turbo projects, and that had everything to do with sub-standard fuel system parts. I learned more from that one experience than I can even begin to relate. All the info is out there, sorting through the BS is the trick. I feel that the best sort filter in the whole wide world is just to go out and do it... break things, keep data logs, and have an open mind. :)

More on topic: As soon as I get my tank back from the painters this week I'm going to fire the bike up and start adjusting the ECU for my set-up. The plenum isn't done, but I need to test the oil system for the turbo and scale my injectors and sensors for the stand alone before I go making boost. I'm still waiting on parts for the built motor, so I'm not in a huge rush. Well, I AM, but rushing won't make it happen any faster I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Water Injection Comparison

Here's a quick snapshot comparison of the spray patterns of the WI nozzles. One is my old AEM nozzle (with their jet recommended for 250-300hp). The other (brass) nozzle is the RB Racing jet for 300hp (160cc/min). Even with the crappy cell phone pic you tell the huge difference in atomization. What you can't see in the pic is how insanely quiet the RB pump is, and how little wattage it chews up in comparison to the RB set up. Despite the 'home made' look of the RB nozzle, I'm very impressed. :eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Oil Feed Fittings & Fuel Pump Mod

First pics are the oil feed adapter I had to make. I couldn't find the right die to save my life, so I ended up ordering one from China. For the record, the threads in the block are 3/8" BSP taper threads. You can sometimes get away with just jamming a 3/8" NPT in there, but I think that's just barbaric.... and I hate the way brass plumbing fittings look. The brass fitting in the picture is actually a 2psi check valve (ordered from McMaster Carr). Also for the record: cutting big external taper threads by hand with a die sucks ass! If you ever find yourself in that little pickle, turn the major diameter down -at least- an extra .005" for the first half of the threads. :angryfire:

The second set of shots is an Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump in a 2nd gen housing, and a fuel regulator block-off/plug I machined up out of some round stock. The white plastic housing has to be trimmed down a little bit where it mounts to the metal base, and the provided electrical connector won't clear the regulator housing (nothing a little soldier doesn't fix). Other than that, it's a pretty clean drop in. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Starting the plenum

Ahhh... they joys and uses for cardboard. My buddy suggested I should just JB weld the seams, add an inlet, and run with it. :badteeth:

I've left enough space on top of the box under the tank to mount a few other goodies.... pics to follow when it turns into metal.
 

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Damn that thing is lookin good man. Thats a really neat looking setup for WM.
 

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Nozzle placement is key with WMI. Any ideas where you plan on placing yours? Also are you going with a single or duel nozzles?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
It's a single nozzle, and it's most likely going to go on that little 2" square on the front of the airbox (it's the piece in that last picture up there). I figure from that point I'll get the most symetrical coverage over the entire box, and the incoming air from the charge pipe right next to it should keep it tumbling/in suspension. I always felt that spraying into a tube perpendicular to the direction of flow was less than ideal... like it would wet the walls more than it would mix with the air. That's just a hunch though... no real data to back that up. But spraying into that 'tip' of the airbox it should be able to fan out nicely without having to make any hard turns. I DO know that fluids in suspension in high speed gas do not like to make sharp turns or abrupt velocity changes, so avoiding that as much as possible was the goal. If I had the room, I would like to spray directly over the throttle bodies, but with a single nozzle it would have to be high enough to cover all 4 equally, and that would be about 6" above the top of the box! The perfect set-up would be to use some sort of corrosion-proof fuel injector above each TB, but as of yet I don't know anyone who makes a small, rust proof fuel injector/solenoid. :(
 

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It's a single nozzle, and it's most likely going to go on that little 2" square on the front of the airbox (it's the piece in that last picture up there). I figure from that point I'll get the most symetrical coverage over the entire box, and the incoming air from the charge pipe right next to it should keep it tumbling/in suspension. I always felt that spraying into a tube perpendicular to the direction of flow was less than ideal... like it would wet the walls more than it would mix with the air. That's just a hunch though... no real data to back that up. But spraying into that 'tip' of the airbox it should be able to fan out nicely without having to make any hard turns. I DO know that fluids in suspension in high speed gas do not like to make sharp turns or abrupt velocity changes, so avoiding that as much as possible was the goal. If I had the room, I would like to spray directly over the throttle bodies, but with a single nozzle it would have to be high enough to cover all 4 equally, and that would be about 6" above the top of the box! The perfect set-up would be to use some sort of corrosion-proof fuel injector above each TB, but as of yet I don't know anyone who makes a small, rust proof fuel injector/solenoid. :(
From my experience, the further from the throttle bodies you can get, the better evaporative cooling and complete mixing with air you will get. I get what you mean about not wanting to spray perpendicular to air flow, the best setup would be about 8-12" from the throttle bodies with the nozzle on an angle going with the flow of air IMO. That is pretty complicated though. I think that port injection tends to not give the WM enough time to completely mix with air and cool charge temps before entering the combustion chamber. Just from personal experience and from what I have seen, there doesn't seem to be a real advantage to spraying directly into each throttle body. Using 2 small nozzles that equate to one big nozzle, on the other hand, might be a good choice for higher power levels as you will get better atomization with smaller nozzles.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Indeed... that's why I went with the RB kit over the bilge pump set-ups. I know those pics up there don't do it justice, but the RB nozzle projects a haze of water, for lack of a better word. At nearly 1000psi, it's about as fine as you can out of a set-up like this. The nozzle will be 10-12 inches away from the TB's, centered, with the angle of the incoming charge air less than 30 degrees in this set-up.... it's actually pretty good by my planning. :)

There are only 2 reasons I'd want a "port injection" style set up. One is just to get rid of the abrupt turn of the incoming air into the TB's that most sportbikes have (gotta hate having a tank in the way...), and the other is for accurate/balanced metering into each TB. You wouldn't spray fuel from one injector way upstream of the TB's and hope for equal mixture, so why settle for that with WMI? I worry that the mixture doesn't get to the outside TB's as well as the inside... and Kawasaki's are really sensitive about the #4/outside cyclinder mixture (mostly on the ZX14, in my personal experience). I'm sure it will be ok, but I'd rather KNOW that it is ok, ya know?
 

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I agree. It's certainly not an exact science, and I've always had some anxiety not really having a way to know how equal the distribution really is. I think your setup is pretty mint though and I am sure you will see some really nice results!
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Progress....

Airbox is getting closer.... :)

...and a little teaser on some of the artwork on the tank. It is no where near finished, but my buddy agreed to let me see a little bit since I needed the tank for some mock-up work. :badteeth:
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
More airbox and other stuff....

Really compact BOV came in. This is the second product I've personally bought from Turbosmart, and I'm still pretty impressed with their design/quality/price. Pics of manifold and how it sits; the V-band attachment is standard.

One quick shot of where the water/meth pump is going to live, and the MS ecu hiding out next to the W/M tank. Still have a good bit of wiring to do for all the auxiliary inputs.

Charge piping is pretty much done, I'm just waiting on a silicone elbow to come in to connect the compressor pipe to the airbox. Everything clears, except the hard water pipe has to move a little bit, or I have to dent/notch the charge pipe.... still on the fence on which I should do.

Since the budget has been pretty much been blown to hell and buried face down in a shallow grave, I'm thinking the 'Baller on a Budget" monkier has to go. The new name shall be, "10lbs in a 5lb bag". Pictures as proof.....
 

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How much is the radiator moved to fit everything?
 
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