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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
I have a 1:1 regulator T'd into the fuel supply line with a seperate return line to the tank (which I think is a 'Yes' to your question). Want me to snap a few pictures of the set-up?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Don't know yet... they took my order but have yet to fill it, and it seems they only charge when they ship. List price on their set-up is about 700 bucks, though.
 

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I have a 1:1 regulator T'd into the fuel supply line with a seperate return line to the tank (which I think is a 'Yes' to your question). Want me to snap a few pictures of the set-up?
Just wondered if that's what you were doing I am planning to do the same on my turbo zx10 unless I get a fuel rail made
 

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Discussion Starter #47
nice project mate. subscribed
Thank you Sir.

sweetride10r said:
Just wondered if that's what you were doing I am planning to do the same on my turbo zx10 unless I get a fuel rail made
I feel like the stock rail is good up to the HP I'm willing to go. If I was trying for 400+ I would start to think about bigger lines/fuel rail. Some people talk about running the regulator at the opposite end of the fuel rail, but I've never seen it make a difference which way you do it... except for causing pulsation problems that way. Mazda actually put a fluid damper in the end of their fuel tails on the TT RX7's over the issue..... it was a PITA.
 

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Hey on the throttle body bar that runs the secondaries that you removed did you leave the servo hooked up and just push it off to the side or did you build a circuit to bypass the servo?

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Hey on the throttle body bar that runs the secondaries that you removed did you leave the servo hooked up and just push it off to the side or did you build a circuit to bypass the servo?

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
I did remove the entire servo, but I'm going with a stand-alone ECU and not running secondary set-up at all.... Talk about freeing up a lot of room for the airbox/piping!! It's amazing how much that cleans up the valve cover area.

Although, making some sort of plug-n-play servo delete might be something TC or Hellrazor could whip up... I'd donate a servo if someone wanted to try it.
 

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Thank you Sir.



I feel like the stock rail is good up to the HP I'm willing to go. If I was trying for 400+ I would start to think about bigger lines/fuel rail. Some people talk about running the regulator at the opposite end of the fuel rail, but I've never seen it make a difference which way you do it... except for causing pulsation problems that way. Mazda actually put a fluid damper in the end of their fuel tails on the TT RX7's over the issue..... it was a PITA.
If I can get a fuel rail made I will run it after the rail otherwise ill run it like yours
 

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Discussion Starter #52
The UPS Fairy Paid A Visit....

There were a couple nicks and dings in the header coating, but overall I'm pretty impressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Small update

So I started to do some work today and pretty much ended up further behind then when I started. Oil supply fittings are going to be a custom affair, so I ordered those, a check valve, and a few BSP taps & dies so I can make adapters. I'm going to use some polished -10AN aluminum line to the pan with a weld on fitting for the drain, at least that should look pretty cool when it shows up. I'm having computer issues too trying to run a USB -> serial converter, and it's holding up my progress wiring & setting up the ECU. It's always something. :)

In the mean time, the snail and oil lines are in place, and I daresay they look good. The radiator will get a bracket/spacer off the compressor housing, and I'll have to modify the fan bracket ever so slightly. In the end I moved the base of the radiator about 3/4" forward, but clearances look good. The last picture really shows how high up above the pan I got the center-line of the turbo to mount..... Here's to hoping that it doesn't need a scavenge pump! :eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #59
i have a 2gen pan with a 3/4" hole in it for a turbo drain if youre interested
Ha! I just welded a -10 fitting on my spare pan this weekend... waiting on a 37 degree flaring tool to show up so I can make the hard line (turns out my cheap one only went up to -8).

On a side note, I have the snail fully mounted. I made quite possibly the most over engineered wastegate actuator bracket in existence, but it fits uber-tight and is adjustable if I have to re-clock the housing at all. The other picture is something I made for a lower radiator mount; the stock piece goes right through where the collector flange now sits. This little guy screws into the compressor housing and the other end just slips through the rubber grommet on the bottom of the radiator. The inside is threaded, and you just use a washer/bolt to capture it all. The neat thing about that is I can rotate the compressor housing a little each way to change how tight the radiator fits! Even bettter news is that the fan fits in the stock location with just a little trimming to the lower bracket. I believe the base of the radiator only moved out less than an inch, and everything clears without issue. The 2" charge piping will even fit behind the stock coolant hoses and make it past the motor mount/radiator/fan/valve cover without having to hack or chop anything.... bout time I had some good news. :)

I'll post pictures of the whole mounting once I finish the oiling system. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Ooooooohhh shit, the UPS fairy came by yesterday night. :mrgreen: It's about damn time I got some of the expensive parts in! I ended up with these instead of the Crower's, as they couldn't figure out how to get any in stock in less than 2-3 months. I haven't checked the weight/balance/dimensions yet, but these are really nice looking/well put together rods.
 

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